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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through I lie lull lexl of 1 1 us book on I lie web al |_-.:. :.-.-:: / / books . qooqle . com/| -ok -V ?z£- ,' /a v- 4 EIAN LIBRARY XFORD * »' I / •0 f • * ; fr > . .«•- » -\» • - r S » i THE I LIFE AND ADVENTURES OF WILLIAM BUCKLEY, THIRTY-TWO YEARS A WANDERER AMONGST THE ABORIGINES OF THE THEN UNEXPLORED COUNTRY BOUND PORT PHILLIP, lfOW THE PROVINCE OF VICTORIA. BY JOHN MORGAN. AUTHOR OF THE EMIGRANT'S NOTE BOOK AND GUIDE, WITH RECOLLECTIONS OF THE WAR IN CANADA 1812—15. . " I was indeed a lone man." i —Page 89. TASMANIA: ISHED BY ARCHi: MELVILLE-STREET, HOBART. PRINTED^AND PUBLISHED BY ARCHIBALD MACDOUOALL, 1852. 20 hi 4 7 TO QHfUftm ftobtrteon, esqutrt, OF COLAC, IN THE PROVINCE OF VICTORIA, AND OF HOBART, VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, TWOS W@RK IS MOST GRATEFULLY AND RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. PREFACE . Editors of Newspapers seldom succeed as authors of works on reality, or of fiction; and the latter are also generally unsuccessful as conductors of public journals. Without making a claim to excellence either in one position or the other, I may, perhaps, be permitted to state my belief that these opinions are at least probable, and my reasons for arriving at that conclusion. The editor of a public journal — unless it be one o great consideration — goes to the performance of his every-day duty with a full knowledge, that what he has to say, will — if read — be cast aside; not more than one number out of every hundred being favoured with a second thought, or honoured with even a brief preservation. However able he may be to give use- ful expression to his thoughts and feelings, the effects of the ability he displays are but slightly impressive, and, at the best, only transitory. He therefore thinks seriously for a time, — forms opinions upon his think- VI PREFACE. ing,— and then, goes to work, running his ideas — as the sailors would say — "right off the reel:" his great object being to express himself sufficiently cor- rectly, and intelligibly, so that " all who run may read;" and that be, running a race against time, may have no part of his establishment for a moment at? a stand ptilL The very close, careful, pointing of sentences^— or portions of them — he does not, and cannot attend to, as the least delay may occasion cofffusbn. He cares very little about it in fact, be- cause- he has-*mr ought to have— sense enough to kttcm, that m.a very few hours— comparatively speak* ing-r-all his ^labours will ba scattered to the winds, as oftd gossip, old elories, or old information. Tina may be wrong ; I do not say the contrary, but, merely offer an opinion; and that the book writer goes to his work very differently, because he may be per- mitted to hope this labours of his mind will live a Jew years, even if it be only in a first edition. With this feeKng, &o gratifying to the author, he will be careful as to what he puts: before the world, knowing how many there are in it who cannot praise, but, on the contrary, delight to eensmfe. I allude to these matters, because it may be said by some of the readers of thk narrative, that many of the sentences are crude, and unnecessarily short: that they might have b^en made more interesting by adopting a different style of relation; I beg those who may think this,* to understand, that the Hero of these adventures can nefflfflr •mad nor write, and, that consequently, I PREFACE. VU have had the laborious task of connecting chtemustances together (so as to make them intelligible) from rough notes and memoranda, made at various tunes, and. by conversations, noting the points down in the shape of questions and answers, as I went an. I trust this fact will be fairly considered by the critic, who may feel disposed— *at his pleasure— to find fault with the style of this history, -written and published, as it has been, under circumstances of pe- culiar difficulty. As to the matter of which it is com- posed, I have only to say, that I believe it to be fa&br > fill: not only because he who is -the subject ofit, hm assured me of its- truthfulness, but? from my owa-peiv sonal acquaintance for several, years with the habits *tf the Aboriginal inhabitants of the Anstaalian Continent, and previously with those of other countries, in every quarter of the world. < This circumstance, Ibeliere, first induced him to solicit me to edit a history of his life, but it is several years since that application:, both of us having during the interval been otherwise occupied. At length, he having been discharged foom government employ, and pensioned off on the large salary of twelve pounds per annum; and myself having- retired from the very lu- crative occupation of a ookmial newspaper editor, I un- dertook the task, for our mutual benefit. Fortunately, we found a generously disposed friend^ in William Robertson* Esquire, to whom this work ig respectfully inscribed in token. o£ our .gratitude? tbafc gentleman having kindly undertaken: to act a£ Trustee* Vlll PBEFACE. for both parties, which, as Buckley can neither read nor write, as I have already said, was a safe and desirable arrangement. It may be proper to explain my reasons for consider- ing such an arrangement desirable. Reader, do not do me an injustice ; remember the comparatively humble may follow in the pathway of the exalted, and yet not presume to greatness. De Foe, the author of the fictitious history of Robin- son Crusoe, after the publication of that very popular narrative, and during the remainder of his life, was as- sailed by the literary assassins of the time in a most unworthy and cowardly manner. They charged him with having surreptitiously obtained the journal of Alexander Selkirk, the shipwrecked mariner of Juan Fernandez. They said that having done so, and given his celebrated work to the world, he derived great an- nual profits from it, whilst he left poor Selkirk to pine in abject penury. Now although we certainly do not expect any such liberal share of fame and fortune by the publication of this truthful history, I am most anxi- ous to avoid even the possibility of such a reproach, and hence arises the Trusteeship which Mr. William Robert- son has so kindly undertaken. For a long time a difficulty existed as to the risk of printing a narrative of the kind at so late a period, but at length, Mr. Macdougall, (late of Adelaide,) engaged on convenient terms, to bring the work out; which he has done in a manner creditable to himself, and to the colony. PREFACE' IX I am also much indebted to William Westgarth, Esq., M.L.C. for Melbourne, who has furnished me with the Statistics in the Appendix; which, I hope, will be considered a valuable addition, and especially at this time. I regret to say, the admirable likeness of William Buckley is the only illustration I can give, the great anxiety for gathering the golden harvest in Victoria* having driven not only the artizan, but the artist, from off the course of his usual industry. I have nothing' more to add by way of preface, or in- troduction : as for apologies for unavoidable imperfec- tions, I make none, — why should I ? In giving the history of a life in the first person, and under such peculiar circumstances, I have endeavoured to express the thoughts of a humble, unlearned man, in that language of simplicity and truth which, in my mind, is best suited to the subject, and to the circumstances as they passed in review before me. I have anxiously sought to induce a reliance upon Providence in all cases of danger and difficulty, having myself escaped so often from imminent and immediate peril. That man is the best able to judge of the value of God's Providence who has seen His power evinced in the various ways made manifest in the battle-field, in the boundless forest, on the ocean wave ; of which those " Who live at home at ease," know nothing, except by reading, and by the labours of others, — the Sailors, the Soldiers, the Explorers— the Pioneers of the world. X PREFACE. To them, to all, I now respectfully submit this book, which will be found to contain an Appendix showing something of the vast resources of the magnificent Province of Victoria, within whose boundaries the hero of the narrative passed so many years, and at length submits his history to the world. John Morgan. Hobart, March 22, 1852. » $ Note.— At the close of this volume, under the head " Addenda," will be found a most interesting early record. It has been taken, by permission, from the private journal kept by the late Reverend Robert Enopwood, during 1803 aftd 1804. ft will be read with interest by most persons, not only as regards the re- ferenee it makes to die voyage out, and to the early days of the Colony of Victoria, but also from respect to the memory, of the Reverend Gentleman himself and those with whom he was associated. J.M. vt ■■ - vj s >.:'"*-— in;. % . . CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Buckley's Birth, Parentage, and Education, — Apprenticed to a » Bricklayer. — Runs away and Enlists for a Soldier.— Joins the Cheshire Mifitia, and then a Regiment of the Line. — Embarks for Holland;— Battle between the French and Allied Forces. — Returns to England,— Gets into bad company: tried and sentensed. — Goes in the Calcutta, with a party of convicts to Port Phillip.— Ship arrives.— Prisoners and the Guard of Marines land. — Absconds, with several others;— Separates from his companions. — Alone in the Wilderness.— Sufferings in the Bush. — Nooraki. - Pages 1 — 16 CHAPTER II. Discovered by the Natives. — Visit the Tribe. — Alarmed by Sea Elephants.— Native Grave. — Found nearly dead by Native Women, whose husbands make me prisoner. — Fight. — Cor- robberree. — Unexpectedly find some very extraordinary Re- lations. — The first Paletot. — Another Battle, in which men and women are killed.— Bodies burnt— Challenge to fight given and accepted. — Elopements, and their consequences.— Kangaroo hunt. ------ 17—36 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. Hunting the Kangaroo, Emu, and Opossom. — Wild Dogs. — Having the beat of a Bargain. — Eel catching. — Spearing Fish. — Manner of Cooking.— General Fight: several Natives killed. — Disposal of the Dead. — Superstitious Ceremonies. — Reflections on Savage Life. — Swan hunting. — Gathering Eggs. — The Bunyip. — More Corrobberrees, Fights, and Murders. - - Pages 37 — 50 CHAPTER IV. Marriage Ceremonies. — Destruction of Children. — The conse- quences of Jealousy. — Another Battle. — Another mode of disposal of the Dead. — Description of Natives. — Supersti- tions. — Origin of Fire. — War Implements. — Murderous As- sault. — Cannibalism. ----- 51 — 67 CHAPTER V. Dreadful Assassination.— Native Music. — Odd Habits and Su- perstitions. — The Kalkeeth Ant. — Ornaments. — Description of the Tomahawk. — More Fights and mischief. — Fatal Accident. — Venemous Snakes. — Loss of my Friends and supposed Relations. 68 — 82 CHAPTER VI. Fishing Hut on the Karaaf River. — Great Success. — The Wom- bat. — Domestic Ceremonies of the Natives. — Grey Hair. — Another Murder.— Cannibalism.— -My Marriage.— My Wife elopes, and leaves me very disconsolate ! — Her sad Fate. — Monster Snake. — Blind Boy. — Return to my home on the Karaaf River. ----,- 83— 9G • •• CONTENTS. Xlll CHAPTER VII. Murder of the Blind Boy. — Abandon the Natives. — A Native Woman my only companion for many months. — The Native Language. — Cannibal Tribe. — Vessel seen. — Consequences. — The White Man's Grave. — Dreadful Massacre. — Wreck of a Ship. — The Bunyip again. - - - Pages 97 — 119 CHAPTER VIII. News of another Ship. — Landing of Settlers. — My Reflections: — Liberty or Captivity? that's the question. — Visit the new comers. — Received kindly by them. — Messrs. Wedge and Batman. — Hopes for the future.— Exploring Expedition. — Buckley's Falls. — Receive a Free Pardon. - 110 — 121 CHAPTER IX. Change of the Settlement. — Visit from the Putnaroos and the Wainworras. — Mr., Gellibrand. — Engage as Interpreter. — Another Arrival. — First House Built. — Colonising Excite- ment. — Disputes between the Settlers and Natives. — Two Settlers killed. 122—126 CHAPTER X. Arrival of Captain Lonsdale. — Stockmen Murdered. — General Bourke arrives. — Earthquake. — Loss of Messrs. Gellibrand and Hesse. — Exploring Parties go in search of them.— My Horse brutally maimed. — Visit Launceston. — Return to Mel- bourne. — Leave the Government Service. - 127 — 137 CHAPTER XI. Charge against a Native. — How sustained. — The Climate, — Sail for Hobart Town. — Hospitable reception. — Narrow escape from becoming a Public Performer. — Government House. — Again enter the Public Service. — My Marriage. — Discharge and Pension. — Narrative draws to a close. - 138 — 148 X1Y CONTENTS. APPENDIX. Historical Records of the Fourth, or King's Own, Regiment of Foot Pages 149—152 The First Settlement of Port Phillip, [and subsequent abandon- ment. — Settlement of Van Diemen's Land. — Death of the Governor. — Colonel Collins. - 153 — 160 Aborigines' Superstitions and Jealousies - - 161—163 Editorial Notes - - - - - - - 164—168 THE CONTRAST. Statistics of the Province of Victoria, 1851.— The Census.— Public Revenues.— Commercial Results. — Effect of the Bathurst Gold discoveries. — Benevolent Asylum. — Imports and Ex- ports. — Acres in Cultivation. — Number of Sheep, Cattle, Horses, &c. - 169—178 THE GOLDEN HARVEST. The Golden City - - 180 Province of Victoria. — Ports. — Additional Statistics. — Popula- tion. — Gold discovered. — Ballarat. — Mount Alexander. — Gold Diggers. — Escort. — Exports of Gold. — Consequences of the Golden Discoveries. — Statistics dated 1st February, 1852.— Increase of Population. — Commercial operations. — Customs' Duties. — Pilotage. — The Harvest. — The Gold Fields. — Immense Nugget. — Escort Returns for January. — Export Returns for January. — Escort Returns to the 18th of February. 181—189 California in contrast with Victoria - 190 — 196 ADDENDA, Journal of the Reverend Robert Knopwood, M.A., Chaplain to the Expedition sent out under Gorernor Collins to form a Settlement at Port Phillip, 1803-4. - - Pages 197—208 I. I've run my story through, " e'en from my boyish days, " To the very moment that he bade me tell it, " Wherein I spake of most disastrous chances, " Of moving accidents by flood and field, " And of the Cannibals, who did each other eat." Othello. LIFE OF WILLIAM BUCKLEY. CHAPTER I. BIRTH, PARENTAGE, AND EDUCATION, — APPRENTICED TO A BRICKLAYER. — RUNS AWAY AND ENLISTS FOR A SOL- DIER. — JOINS THE CHESHIRE MILITIA, AND THEN A REGIMENT OF THE LINE.— -EMBARKS FOR HOLLAND. — BATTLE BETWEEN THE FRENCH AND ALLIED FORCES. — RETURNS TO ENGLAND. — GETS INTO BAD COMPANY : TRIED, AND SENTENCED. — GOES IN THE CALCUTTA, WITH A PARTY OF CONVICTS TO PORT PHILLIP. — SHIP ARRIYES. — PRISONERS AND GUARD OF MARINES LAND. — ABSCONDS WITH THREE OTHERS. — SEPARATES FROM HIS COMPANIONS. — SUFFERINGS IN THE BUSH. 44 Poor is the friendless Master of a World." 1 was born in the year 1780, at Macclesfield, in the County of Cheshire, England. My parents were humble people, who honestly provided for the support of them- selves, and a family of two girls and two boys, by cul- tivating a small farm in that neighbourhood. What has become of my brother and sisters, is not known to me ; B 2 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. but a short time since I heard the former was still living at Middlewitch, also a town in Cheshire, and celebrated for its salt works. The wandering, extraordinary life I have led, has naturally obliterated from my memory, many of the earlier scenes of my childhood; but few presenting themselves before me occasionally at this period, and those only as a dream. The following are however still vivid to my mind. I remember, that from some circumstance or other, I was adopted by my mother's father, and that I was sent by him to an evening school, where I was taught to read; and that when about fifteen years of age, I was apprenticed by the same good old man to a Mr. Robert Wyatt, a Bricklayer, residing in that neighbourhood, to be taught the art and mystery of building houses for other people to live in — it being my fate, as will presently be seen, during thirty-two years, to inhabit dwellings of a very different descrip- tion, having for their roofs only the wide spread of Heaven. Having been removed in the first instance from the immediate charge of my parents, I was, I suppose, not so strictly treated by the old people as I should have been, as a boy, and hence the restraints imposed upon me by my master, and his very proper endeavours to make me useful and industrious, were considered hardships and punishments, unnecessarily and improperly inflicted. This feeling, in time, com- pletely unsettled me, and my uncontrolled discontent mastering my boyish reason, when I was about nine- LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 3 tgen, I determined to enlist as a soldier, and to win glorious laurels in the battle-field, taking my chances of becoming either a corporal, or a colonel, — I cared not which; neither did' I very well understand the difference between the two positions, or the career of dangers, trials, and sufferings, upon which I waB en- tering. Acting upon these impulses, I enlisted in the Cheshire Militia, receiving ten guineas as a bounty, which sum I thought would prove inexhaustible; but, at the end of about a year, I took another bounty, having volunteered into the Fourth, or King's own Regiment of Foot, then laying at Horsham Barracks. The Regiment was com- manded by a Lieutenant- Colonel Dixon, a very excel- lent officer, and in about six weeks after joining, we were ordered to embark for Holland, where His Royal Highness the Duke of York, at the head of the British army, was endeavouring to sustain himself against the French Republican forces. My Regiment was in the division commanded by the late Lieutenant-General the Earl of Chatham. It is not the purpose of this narrative, to refer parti- cularly to that period of my life, neither shall I attempt to give the details of the campaigns in Holland : suffice it to say, that in a battle fought in that country, our regiment suffered heavily, and that I was wounded r rather severely, in the right hand. Almost immediately after this action, the Fourth, with other corps, embarked for England, and were landed at Chatham, where we lay some time. Here I received another bounty for b 2 4 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. extended service, having now been about four years a soldier, and by attention to my duty, and general steadi- ness of conduct, having acquired the good opinion of my officers. Perhaps my unusual height, six feet five, may also have predisposed them in my favour. It would have been well had I continued in the same line of rectitude, but my imperfect education, and early feelings of dis- content returning upon me, I unfortunately became associated with several men of bad character in the Regiment, who gradually acquired an influence over my conduct, which very soon led me into scenes of irregu- larity, and riotous dissipation. At length, after a six weeks' furlough, during which I visited my Mends in Cheshire, I was apprehended, as being implicated with those men in an offence which rendered me liable to punishment. The consequence was, that I #was tried at Chatham, and found guilty, but as the laws were strangely administered in those days, where soldiers and sailors were concerned, I do not know to this hour the precise character, or extent of my sentence. This may appear strange, but the reader will remem- ber, that transportation, as a punishment on any regular or fixed system, had then scarcely been thought of, and, that soldiers and sailors were dealt with more at the pleasure of the Chief Military, and Naval Authorities, than by Judges or Justices, many of whom considered the army and navy outside the pale of their protec- tion. With this sentence, whatever it was, ceased my connection with my family, and I have never since heard of either, or any of them, excepting as I have LIFE OF BUCKLEY. £ already said, that my brother was supposed, a short time since, to be still living at Middlewitch. My fortune had now changed. I was a prisoner, working at the new fortifications being thrown up for the defence of Woolwich. In about six months, how- ever, a new light broke out over my unhappy exist- ence, and an opportunity was afforded me of ultimately retrieving my character, and acquiring freedom : this was by the determination of the British (government to found a penal settlement at Port Phillip, on the south-eastern coast of New Holland ; that part known as New South Wales being the only portion of the Continent then occupied. Being a mechanic, I, with others, was selected and placed on board His Majesty's ship Calcutta, Captain Woodriff. Lieutenant- Colonel Collins, of the Royal Marines, was appointed Governor, and he accompanied the expedition, having with him in the same ship, several officers and a detachment of his corps, as a guard over the prisoners during the voyage, and after their landing. The treatment I received on the passage was very good, and, as I endeavoured to make myself useful on board, I was permitted to be the greater part of my time on deck, assisting the crew in working the ship. In justice to the officers placed over us, I must say, the treatment all the prisoners received at their hands, was as far from suffering, as could be expected, at a time when prison discipline was generally carried out by coercion, and the lash and the rope were, in too many instances, considered too good for all who had been convicted. To amend 6 LWB OP BUCKLEY. and reclaim, to bring back to society, and to admin- ister hope and consolation, were, in those days, con- sidered the encouragement of mutiny, and hence, to be permitted to live without additional sentences, and summary punishments, was looked upon,— aa mercy. At length our voyage was at an end, and the Cal- cutta came to an anchor within the Heads, at about two miles from what is now known as Point Lonsdale. The Natives call that place Koonan, which means eels, that fish being in great abundance in almost all the streams running into Port Phillip. The particular locality had been chosen as the scite of a penal station, It being six hundred miles from the nearest settlement, Sydney, and the chances of escape offered to the pri- soner being, therefore, very few. In a short time the Marines and convicts landed, and encamped. A dis- tinction was made between the mechanics and the rest of the prisoner people, the former being, permitted to hut themselves outside the line of sentinels, whilst the labourers were placed under a more careful controul. This was necessary, as the lime-burners, brickmakers, and sawyers, were compelled to work in all directions, and at a distance from the encampment. A magazine and a store-house were the first public buildings com- menced, and at the former I had been employed about three months, when I determined on endeavouring to make my escape, and to get, if possible, to S jdney. The attempt was little short of madness, for there was before me the chances of being retaken, and probable death, or other dreadful punishment ; or again, stiarva* LI*E OF BUCKLEY. 7 tion in an unknown country inhabited by savages; with whose language and habits, I was totally unacquainted, besides the dangers innumerable which the reader may in part imagine, but which no man can describe — no, not even myself; although, by the merciful providence of God, I surmounted them all. These perils and difficulties are now passed; they were then staring me in the face; but possessed of great personal strength, a good constitution, and having known what might be done by courageous men when combating for life and liberty, I determined on braving everything, and, if possible, making my escape. Per* haps my unsettled nature in a great measure induced this, and, that my impatience of every kind of restraint, also led to the resolution. However this may be, four of us agreed to take to the bush, as absconding is called, and being allowed the use of a gun for killing kangaroo and opossums, we made up our minds to start the first dark night, taking it with us, and as much provisions as we could muster. The opportunity soon offered and we left, as we hoped, unobserved; we however were not so fortunate, for one of the sentinels challenged, and receiving no answer, im- mediately fired, shooting the last man of the four of us, as I thought, dead; at least, I never after saw, nor heard of him. After running the greater part of the first three or four hours, to make our escape the more certain, we halted for rest and refreshment. We were now fairly launched on our perilous voyage, and it* became neces- sary^ to reflect' on our ptoritfcro, an* to e^camirie our re- 8 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. sources. The latter consisted of sundry tin pets, an iron kettle, the fowling-piece already mentioned, and a few days 1 rations. We now pushed on again until we came to a river, and near the bay ; this stream the natives call Darkee Barwin : here we rested until daylight, and then prepared to renew our march. Early in the morning, a large party, or tribe of the natives, was seen, armed with spears; and, thinking to alarm them by so unusual a sound, I fired the piece, on hear- ing which, they retired hurriedly into the bush. I should here observe, that we had now very little ap- prehension of being retaken, believing the opinion of Governor Collins to be, that any prisoner attempting to escape, would gladly deliver himself up, rather than perish of hunger ; besides, we had, by the rapid rate at which we had travelled during the night, placed a con- siderable distance between us and the encampment. Light marching order being very desirable, when start- ing on our first day's march, we resolved on parting company with the iron kettle, as a useless article, and therefore threw it into the scrub, where it was found, thirty-two years after, by a party of men clearing ground for agricultural purposes. Our next business was to cross the river, but as all of us could not swim, I passed first to try its depth, and after considerable difficulty succeeded in getting my companions over, and then I swam over again for their clothes, being the best swimmer of the party. That ujight we reached to about twenty miles distant from what is now the City of Melbourne, and halted there LIFE OF BUCKLEY, 9 totil the morning, when we crossed the Yarra River; and, after passing over extensive plains, reached the Yawang Hills, where we finished the last particle of bread and meat that we had, not having divided our rations properly, and taken the precautions necessary to avoid starvation. Here we remained the night; the next morning, I told my companions that we must make for the beach to look for food, or death was cer- tain. They agreed with this suggestion, and after a long and weary march we again made the shore of the bay, and finding a few shell fish, with them appeased our hunger. At a place the natives call Kooraiob, in an extensive bay, we were so fortunate as to find a well of fresh water, and here we remained the night:— the following day continuing our course along the beach gathering shell fish, until we reached a place called Woodela, signifying rock. Here we again rested, if rest it might be called, suffering as we were from the want of the absolute necessaries of life: the fish al- though preserving it, affecting us all very severely. The next day our route was the same, and as we saw several native huts in our journey, we were hourly ex- pecting to fall in with one of the tribes, hunting or fishing on that part of the coast. Another day's travel brought us to a little island, called Barwal, which we could reach at low water, and here we halted several days to recover our strength, which was by this time greatly exhausted. We found about this place a sort of gum, which, when placed over a fire became soft, and palatable; on this, and fish, we subsisted. From Bar- 10 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. wal, we could see the Calcutta at anchor on the opposite side of the bay. The perils we had already encountered damped the ardour of my companions, and it was anxi • ously wished by them that they could rejoin her, so we set about making signals, by lighting fires at night, and hoisting our shirts on trees and poles by day. Atlength a boat was seen to leave the ship and come in our direc- tion, and although the dread of punishment was natu- rally great, yet the fear of starvation exceeded it, and they anxiously waited her arrival to deliver themselves up, indulging anticipations of being, after all the suffer- ings they had undergone, forgiven by the Governor. These expectations of relief were however delusive- when about half way across the bay, the boat returned, and all hope vanished. We remained in the same place, and living in the same way, six more days, signalizing all the time, but without success, so that my companions seeing no probable relief, gave themselves up to despair, and lamented bitterly their helpless situation. At the end of the next day they determined on re- tracing their steps round the head of the bay, and if possible, rejoining their companions at the encampment. To all their advice, and entreaties to accompany them, I turned a deaf ear, being determined to endure every kind of suffering rather than again surrender my liberty. After some time we separated, going in different directions. When I had parted from my companions, although I had preferred doing so, I was overwhelmed with the various feelings which oppressed me: it would be vain to •attempt describing my sensations. I thought of the 1AFE OF BUCKLEY. 11 friends of my youth, the scenes of my boyhood, and early manhood, of the slavery of my punishment, of the liberty 1 had panted for, and which, although now, re- alized, after a fashion, made the heart sick, even at its enjoyment. 1 remember, I was here sutgected to the most severe mental sufferings for several hours, and then pursued my solitary journey. How I could have deceived myself into a belief of ever reaching Sydney, and particularly by travelling in that direction, is to me astonishing ; and even if I had found it possible to do so, of course I should, on my arrival there, have been confined as a runaway, and punished accordingly. The whole affair, was, in fact,, a ■species of madness. During my first day's lonely march, I saw, at a dis- tance, about a hundred natives, in and -about some huts built of bark, and boughs of trees, and others of the Tribe making toward me* Being greasy, alarmed, I took to the river, and swam across it with my clothes on, and in so doing extinguished my fire-stick, so. that I was deprived of the, means to cook my food. This was a sad loss, not only as respected the way of making what I could obtain to eat, palatable, but of preserving my health, under the great privations to which I was subjected. I was glad however to observe the natives retiring from the bank of the river to their huts, instead of following me as I expected, apd, with this consoljation, when I had made my way to the, b$ach, I laid myself down to sleep in the thick scrub, covering anyself over with leaves, rushes, and broken bpqghs* It was a \ 12 LIFE. OF BUCKLEY, miserable night, my clothes being wet, and the weather cold, it being the early part of the spring of the year. At daylight, I endeavoured to ascertain if the natives were moving, as their huts and fires were within sight, and finding them not astir, I left my uncomfortable lodging, and took again to the beach. As it was low tide, I found a considerable supply of the shell fish before mentioned, which the natives call Kooderoo; it is the same as the English describe as mutton fish. Its shape is something like that of the oyster, but it is tougher, and larger, and consequently not so digestable. The shell is inlaid with what ap- pears to be'mtrther of pearl. These fish I was now obliged to eat raw, and having no fresh water I suf- fered exceedingly from thirst until the evening, when I reached the river Kaaraf, a stream of considerable width and depth, I there laid myself down for the night. It was one, far worse than the last, for I had taken off my clothes and hung them up in the trees to dry, covering myself with the long grass as my only shelter from the weather. The next day, I forded the Kaaraf, and having left it and taken to the bush, I suffered dreadfully during the day from thirst, having nothing to allay it but the dew from the boughs which I collected with my hands in passing. Even this sup- ply was very uncertain, on account of the strong breezes which prevailed during the nights. Continuing my course along the beach, I reached the Doorangwar River, where I took up my quarters in my usual manner, having the sky for my canopy, and the LIFE OF BUCKLEY. IB earthy scrub for my resting-place. I did so this night with increased anxiety, having seen several deserted native huts in my day's march, by which I concluded they were somewhere in the neighbourhood ; on this account I had avoided going into the bush as much as possible, although compelled occasionally to leave the beach, in order to ford the rivers I had met with on my journey. The following. day I came to a stream the natives call Kuarka Dorla, without having seen any living creature excepting birds, and a few wild dogs ; the latter fled at my approach, but their dismal howlings, and especially during the night, added to the solitary wretchedness of my situation. Although so very short a time had elapsed since I commenced my gloomy pilgrimage, I began to find, the weather, as I thought, warmer — as if I had travelled into another climate. This increased my thirst, and the consequent distress, which I could in no way alleviate, the streams I crossed being, even at low water, all brackisji from the flow of the tide water. Added to this, my only food being shell fish, I suffered much, so exceedingly indeed, that almost regardless of life, I lay myself down for the night in a state of total exhaustion. With the morning's light, however, I pursued my journey, but this day J was more unfortunate than the one preceding, for I could not find a single fish, or particle of any other kind of food or water, and in great pain and misery that day- ended. The following was one which I anticipated would be my last, for I could scarcely move my limbs along, and the stages I made, were in consequence, 14 LIFE OF BUCKLEY.. very short. At length I came to two rocks nearly close to each other on the beach; weary and tired, foot sore and nearly heart broken, I laid myself down between thenu T had not been there long, when the tide came in so rapidly, that I found it necessary to climb some way up one of them, and remain there until it had receded. The descent was a work of difficulty, having now been three days without a particle of food or drop of fresh water: however, I resolved on making another effort to hobble along the beach, and at length came to the Mangowak, another salt water stream which I forded. I found the natives had been burning the bush about this place, so I carefully examined it hoping to find some remains of fire ; and, at length to my great joy r discovered a tree still smoking, aind by this means again provided myself with a fire-stick. For a time r however, this was useless, as I had no kind of eatables to cook, and was still without fresh water. At length I discovered a high shrub bearing a kind of berry, many of which I knocked down ; but not knowing what effect ihey might have upon me, I ate of them very sparingly. These berries I found very refreshing, and soon after I was so fortunate as to discover a native well near the bank of the stream, and close to the beach, in which there was excellent water— -of which I drank abundantly. ^The Almighty indeed, appeared that day to favour me — especially, as I thought, in pity to my sufferings, for I found also a great supply of shell fish : so that I had now food, and fire, and water. I should have mentioned, that when I parted com- LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 15 pany with my companions, one of them took with him the gun I spoke of, as having been brought with us from the encampment ; indeed, I muot here state, that if I omit to place any very precise details, in their par- ticular order, I hope to be excused ; because, so many years' wanderings must have impaired my recollection — except as to the more prominent and material incidents of my life. At this spot I remained more than a week, perhaps it may have been two or three, for I seem henceforward to have lost all record of time, except by the return of the seasons, and the rising and setting sun. With such luxurious living, for one in my situation, I soon re- covered my strength, and be assured, I did not fail to offer up fervent prayers of thankfulness to the God who had hitherto sustained me, and for his support under the other trials and sufferings, to which I might be sub- jected. At this place it rained very heavily during a whole day and night; being the first that had fallen since my wanderings commenced, but I found a cavern near the beach, and in it I sheltered myself very com- fortably. At length, being sufficiently recovered, I resolved on resuming my journey, and by keeping along the beach, found abundance of fish, but very little fresh water — the streams being all salt, or brackish. In two days I came to a large rock, about a mile long, which the natives call Nooraki. It is sheltered by very high overhanging land, so that the sun seldom shines upon it, the tide apparently never receding from it, as the depth of water seemed to be always the same* 16 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. I may consider this as being my first permanent resting- place ; for the sort of food I had had since I left the ship, and particularly latterly, and the irregularity of my supplies, sometimes starving, and at others, eating to repletion, had occasioned sores, and painful eruptions to break out all over my body, so as to make walking very difficult and painful. I resolved therefore on re- maining at this place until I was recovered, and par- ticularly as there was a fine stream of fresh water rush- ing out of a high rock, near which, I had determined to erect a shelter of branches of trees, and sea- weed. It was a work of great labour for a sick man, but I per- severed and finally completed my sea-beach home in about three or four days; there I remained several months. In addition to my supply of shell fish, I found also in great abundance a creeping plant, the flavour of which is very much like that of the common water melon — rather insipid, but very refreshing. I also discovered a kind of currant, black and white, so that I fared sumptuously every day, and rapidly re- covered my strength, mentally and bodily. I remember a fancy coming over me, that I could have remained at that spot all the rest of my life ; but this solitary desire was but temporary, for, as it was never intended that man should live alone, so are implanted in his nature, social feelings, and thoughts instinctively leading to the comforts of home, be it ever so homely, and yearnings for flociety, be it ever so humble. U92 OF BUCKLEY. 17 CHAPTER II r DISCOVERED BY NATIVES.— VISIT THE TRIBE. — ALARMED BY SEA ELEPHANTS. — NATIVE GRAVE. — POUND NEAR- LY DEAD BY NATIVE WOMEN, WHOSE HUSBANDS MAKE ME PRISONER. — FIGHT. — CORROBBERREE.— • UNEXPEC- TEDLY FIND SOME VERY EXTRAORDINARY RELATIONS. —THE FIRST PALET&T. — ANOTHER BATTLE, IN WHICH MEN AND WOMEN ARE KILLED. — BODIES BURNT.— CHALLENGE TO FIGHT GIVEN AND ACCEPTED.— ELOPE- MENTS, AND THEIR CONSEQUENCES. " He stood alone, — beneath the deep dark shade Of the AuitraLian forest, where the trees, A century old the youngest of them, made Hollow and mournful music in the breeze," One day when I was indulging in these meditations, and gazing round from my Robinson Crusoe hut upon the surface of the waters, I thought I heard the sound of human voices ; and, on looking up, was somewhat startled at seeing three natives standing on the high land immediately above me. They were armed with spears, and had opossum skins thrown over their shoulders, partially covering their bodies. Standing as they did, en an elevated position, armed too, and being myself c IS LIFE OF BUCKUEY. totally defenceless, I confess I felt alarmed; bo that hoping I had not been seen, I crept into a crevice in a rock near at hand, where I endeavoured to conceal my- self. They were however soon upon my track, and shouting what I considered to be a call for me to come out, I resolved to do so ; indeed I could not have re- mained there long on account of the water. With but faint hopes of meeting with good treatment at their hands, I crawled out from my shelter, and surrendered at discretion. They gazed on me with wonder : my stee probably attracting their attention. After seizing both my hands, they struck their breasts, and mine also, l making at the same time a noise between singing and crying: a sort of whine, which to me sounded very like' premeditated mischief. Pointing to my hut, they evinced a desire to examine it — so we entered. My new friends., if friends they were to be, made themselves very much at home, although uninvited. One made up a large fire, another threw off his rug and went into the sea for crayfish, which, on his return, he threw alive into the flame— at the same time looking at me with an expres- sion as much as to intimate that they intended to grill me next, by way of a change of diet. I can afford to smile, and even laugh now at the recollection ; but, at the time, I assure the reader, I was by no means satisfied with the prospect before me, or with my visitors. At r length my suspense ended, by their taking the fish, fairly dividing them, and handing to me the first and best portion. Having finished our meal, they gave me J to understand they wished me to follow them. To thk lock oy WW**, 10* I hesitated, 9<4 being satiaJW its to their mtentwna, , but After a time consented. On levying tbe but, two of them went before, and buying thus only one to con- tend against, I thought of making my escape, bpt m# armed guard was too vigilant; so that, defenceless mi I was, np safe opportunity was afforded. We proceeded in this .wajy until we came to their huts, two small turf cabins — -in each of wbicb there was just room enough for two persons to lay at length under their shelter. U was nearly dark, and finding that I was to hare my sentry jiiend beside me, and that the other two were to occupy 4be second cabin, my .hopes revived— Hthat during the night nu opportunity lor my escape w$uld offer. He however did not slee$> a wink, but kept muttering to .himself all the night, so that by the morning I was fairly worn out by anxiety and watching* At day- light they .gave me to understand they wqse going farther, and tfyat I must accompany them. I, m the contrary, thought it safer to come to an understating at once, And with this view, mustering aU my resolution, I intimated a refusal, that I would not dp so. After a warm, discussion by -sign** and, to hotfi jwties, by suffi- ciently significant sounds, they apparently consented that I should remain; but, as they wisfeed me not fe> leave until iheir return, my old and neajdy WK*u-o**t stockings wiere required by them ^ an assurance 4$er- ing. This J. steadily declined comply^ with, ae>tba£ aft^r sundry striking -.of the, brea^, and &m$Wg wdfh the feet, they were content to leave me *am<^eated. i watched (them uut il I ,^p^ght tfee cAaatmai *toar, and: c 2 29 Lift 6k TOCKlitf. ihen began to consider in what direction I should steer, for I had not now the beach as a guide for my move- ment?. Whilst thinking over the matter, one of them returned, bringing with him a rude kind of basket made of rushes. In it was some of the berries I have already mentioned, which he wished to barter for one of my much courted stockings. I however objected, being re- solved on letting him know I was positive in that matter, hoping by so doing to give him a favourable opinion of my determination, on questions which might arise between us of greater consequence. Finding his negotiation use- less, he left the fruit and followed his companions. When I thought them sufficiently far off, I took to my heels, in the direction, as I thought, for the sea coast, and for- tunately I made it without much difficulty. Going musing along, I came to a high rock against which the waves were beating violently, the sea at the time being very tempestuous: it was a very grand but a dreary and melancholy scene. Whilst viewing it with a very aching and downcast heart and spirit, I observed a small rocky island a short distance from the beach, covered with the strangest looking animals I had ever seen. They appeared to be about four, or from four to six feet long, having a, head similar to that of a pig, without feet, with tails like those of a fish, a large fin on each side, and a body covered with short glossy hair: I suppose them to be the fur seal, or sea elephant. Finding night coming on, having no fire to warm me, antl with so dreary tt prospect of the future — without food of any kind,^I begian to repent having left the UW OF BVCKL9T. 21 natives, and resolved on returning to thtfr nuts from whence I had made my escape. I accordingly traced my way back, but on my arrival found they had not returned. After remaining some hours, I decided on going in the direction I supposed them to have taken, but after a weary march, I found I had completely lost myself and very much distressed, I laid myself down for the night, within the shelter of a large hollow tree, such as are to be found in the Australian forests. Having secured a fire-stick during the day, I made a good fire, it being very cold, and raining heavily. I remember I had no sleep that night, for my fire attracted the notice of the wild dogs and opossums, whose horrid howls and noises were such as to render sleep impossible. The cries of the latter were like the shrieks of children, appearing to be at times over me, and at others close to my ear. Under these circum- stances, I hailed the daylight very thankfully, and then proceeded on my solitary way, endeavouring to get upon the trail of the natives, who, as I supposed, had gone in that direction. In this I was not successful, and having entangled myself in the labyrinths of the forest, in a country entirely unknown to me, I became at length lost, and remained so for three days, without a morsel of food, or a drop of water, excepting small quantities which I occasionally met with in the clay holes. When I laid myself down to rest hoping to sleep, the same unearthly noises appeared to have fol- lowed me, and my mind for want of relaxation wm failing, as the minds of the strongest men will fail, $2 itrt or Btre1u&*¥. itarfef sttch circumstances. I contintted 'to wander' aboti't fethisT*ray», subsisting upon siuttafctff! shrubs 1 and ber- ries, tmtil I came to a targe Wte, upon wfcfch 1 could tfee an abundance of ducks, and geese, atfd swans, arid other Wild fowl. From that lake £ found a very con- siderable river flawing, as I conctaded, toward ttte sea. I at once resolved to follow its cottrse; and ott reaching its entrance, saw the Kttle rooky island already men- tioned as baring the seal, or sea elephants upon ft ; and ft was a great comfort to me, to tiaA myself once more not far from my old quarters Where tbe three natives bad left me. I soon after arrived at the turf cabins, bairing riow acquired some acquaintance With the lo- cality, and? although suffering much from hunger, lay myself down and slept soundly. At daylight, I had the satisfaction to find some of the 1 same kind of fruit 4he native had brought me in the rush basket. On these I ntade a great feast, and after remaining there that day, returned to my own hut on the beach. Here I must hare remained many months— ^how long I cannot tell — subsisting as before; but at length it appeared likely that my supplies would foil, and I began again to reflect on my deplorable condition. My clothes wSre all in tattefs, my shoes were Worn out> my health was much' impaired by want and exposure, and my spirits broken— -so much so, that I deiJermined on re- tracing my steps in order to regain the ship in the event of her remitting in the bay, and With the hopes of -rejoining my companions, shotdd they be still in ex- igence. The wfffl&tas ftst approaching, the weaflfe* jpOflf OF BUOKfitT. 2S la* set in dreadfully cold and tempestuous, do that it wad not without great difficulty I could go down among* the rocks for shell fish, which, as I fame already said, were now, from some cause or oilier, getting vary scare* in that locality. I therefore bade good bye to my body habitation and started on my return. One night, whilst travelling along the beach, I wa* completely bewildered, having been stopped m my pro- gress by a high perpendicular rock stretching out itont the cliffs some distance into the sea. The tide funning in fast,* my only chance of escape was by olfanbi&g the rock. This I did with great difficulty, a*d just above high water, mark I found a large Oaten*, into which I crept for shelter. Having had no fire for some time I was again, Hving: upon such raw shell fish a* I could find in each day * journey, and with th€Se WW making my wretched meal, when I fcmndlhadinfrudeft npon the lodgings of some of the tenants of the deep, who could only reach their rocky quarters when the tide was at the highest. I was completely horr&ed and knew not what to do* as it was nearly dark, and they were waddHng in at, fbe entrance. To rush out* appeared to be nothing less than certain death; but happening to make a noise, ,it struck terror into them, and tumbling one over the other into the sea, they left me once more master of the cavern. I remained doting the rest of the night undisturbed, and the following morning again pursued my ireary way. Being now very weak from the privations I hftd *ft- dHgopfc, i ooufcl onfy n^e. e^ eaerii 24 : lonmw butolhyv * daj^ .-*&$ a* iheirighte wwe very coWf my suffering* w<*feg»aV*<»?paclfc occasionally as to overpower my remaining strength and resolution* After several daya I reached auBtreaut which the natives call Dooangaw% where I made myself a sort of shelter in the scrub, and in the morning saw a mound of earth, with part of a native's spear stuck upright on the top of it, to indicate its being ft grave. I took the spear out and used it as a walking-stick to help me on my journey. I The next day I reached the Kaarof at high water; In attempting to swim aoross I had nearly lost my life, the staeam being too rapid for my. enfeebled state, so that I,was carried: some way down by the force of the current., I however succeeded in reaching the opposite bank, and then crawled on my hands and feet into the bush, where I laid myself down nearly exhausted, and perishing with cold and hunger, not expecting to see Idie light of another, morning. In this state I lamented deeply the imprudence which had placed me in such a pitiable position, and prayed long and earnestly to God, for his merciful assistance and protection. All night the wSd dags howkd horribly, as if expressing their impatience for my remains: even before death, I fancied they wonld attack me. At daybreak I went again onward, looking for aay. kind -of v food by which to appease my hunger, and at length came to a place the natives call Maamart, where there is u lake, or large lagoon, surrounded by thiekty. growutg scxub and timber. Whilst searching for the gwi already mentioned, I was seen by two u»: or 'Bucklmy 29* native women, who watched *n* unperceited* Afrlengih^ I threw myself down at the foot of a Inge tree to rest* On observing me thus prostrate, and helpless, tfce«e> women went in search of their husband*' with therinteK ligence that they had seen a very tall white man. . Ere*- gently "they all came upon me unawares, and seising me by the arms and hands, began beating their breasts, and mine, in the manner the others had dona After a abort time, they lifted me up, and they made the same sign f giving me to understand by it, that I was in want of food. The women assisted me to walk, the men shoaling- hideous noises, and tearing their hair. When we ain rived at their huts, they brought a kind of bucket, made of dry bark, into which they put gum and water, converting it by that means into a sort of pulp. Thisi they offered me to eat, and I did. so very greedily/ They called me Murrangurk, which I afterwards learnt,: was the name of a man formerly belonging to their tribe, who had been buried at the spot where I had found the piece of spear I still carried with me. They? have a belief, that when they die, they go to some place' or other, and are there made white men, and that they then return to this world again for another existence.' They think all the white people previous to death weffc belonging to their own tribes, thus returned to life m a different colour. In cases where they have killed whit* men, it has generally been because tkey imagined them to have been originally enemies, or belonging to tribe* with whom they were hostile* > In accordance with tUf belief, they fancied me tabe one of their* tribe wfok had 26 LIFE OF BTJCKfcBY. ^ a * L'"> 2 36 LIFE OF BUCKHY. we all went on a hunting excursion in perfect good humour, so that I had nothing to apprehend. It was a kangaroo hunt, and, as this was the first I had been at, I looked on with great interest, for I began to consider myself, by compulsion, a native, and to take a part in all their exercises. Considerable dexterity is used by them in catching and killing kangaroo ; for they place themselves at particular spots and distances, so as to drive them into corners like flocks of sheep, and then they spear them without difficulty. We killed several very large ones, on which, with roasted roots, we made a great feast. After that, they all pipe-clayed themselves, and had another Corrobberree, and then, as usual, began to throw their spears about. This I thought would end in mischief, and the women appeared to think so too, for they ran into their huts. My guardians, as a precaution, took me with them. Nothing serious, , however, occurred that night. In the morning it ap- peared that the Pootmaroo tribe had taken two women from the Yaawangis in the course of the night; or, that they had gone away willingly with their seducers. The consequence was another fight, but it ended without bloodshed. The affair, however, was not forgotten. After that, the tribes separated, each going to its respective locality. LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 37 CHAPTER III. MINTING THB KANGAROO, EMJJ, AMD OPOSSUM.— WILD DOGS. — HAVING THE BEST OF A BARGAIN. — BPEARING FISH. — EEL CATCHING. — MANNER OF COOKING.— GENE - SAL FIGHT : SEVERAL NATIVES KILLED. — DISPOSAL OF THE DEAD.— -SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONIES. — REFLEC- TIONS ON SAVAGE LIFE.— SWAN HUNTING— GATHERING BOGS. — THE BUNYIP.— MORE CORROBBERREES, FIGHTS, AND MURDERS. " Outcast and hopeless, hare I dwell, A dreary desert where I roam," I now begin to understand something of their lan- guage : of their customs I had seen quite enough ; but what oould I do ? — bow could I escape ? We next joined, the Bengali tribe, and went with them to their hunting ground, a place surrounded by the sea and the Barwin River— each , tribe having its particular locality, which they considered a sort of in- heritance. Here we erected our trots, and killed a 38 WB OF BUCKLEY. great number of kangaroo. By eating this food con* tinually, I soon recovered my usual health and strength ; for my friends, in their kindness, always served me with the choicest portion of everything they had ; so that I had great occasion to be thankful.. That I was suffi- ciently grateful to the Almighty, who had so wonder- fully preserved me through such extraordinary suffer- ings and dangers, I cannot say; for my early notions of religion had been nearly destroyed by the unsettled life I had led, and the want of proper moral instruction. The excellent precepts instilled into mA mind by my good old grandfather and grandmother ha* been long since neutralized, or smothered in the camp,Mn riotous company, and in the bad society into which I had been thrown by my imprudence. Nevertheless, in the wil- derness, as I have already said, I often prayed earnestly and fervently to the great Creator of the Universe for health, and strength, and forgiveness. At this time we killed an emu, a sort of ostrich, a bird of very large size, and excellent for its flavour. It cannot rise upon the wing, but runs with amazing swift- ness. After staying on this hunting ground for some months, I know not how long, we started again lor a new lo- cality, our supplies of game beginning to fell short in consequence of our continued hunting. Having arrived at a place good for this purpose, as they thought, we pitched, or rather erected our bark tents, having killed two immense large wild dogs on our way. The limbs of these animals '. they broke, and flinging them on LIFE OP BUCKLEY- 39 the fire, they kept them there until the hair was singed, they then took out the entrails, and roasted the bodies between heated stones, covering them over with sheets of bark and earth. After this process, which lasted two hours, they were ready for eating, and were considered a dish fit for an Exquisite. They handed me a leg of one, as the best part, but I could not fancy it; and on my smelling it, and turning up my nose, they were much amused, laughing away at a great rate. No doubt, they thought my having died and been made white had strangely altered my taste in such matters. As for themselves, they set to work with great zest, making all the time motions to me to fall too also. At length, I exchanged my portion with a neighbour, who gave me for my dog's leg a fine piece of kangaroo, , my friend laughing very much at the idea of having the best of the bargain. The natives consider the wild dogs, and kangaroo rats, great luxuries. They take the former • whilst young, and tame them for hunting. The man who kills the game seldom claims the first portion of it, but of the second animal speared, if it be a kangaroo, he has the head, and tail, and best part of the back and ^ loins. As for myself, they always gave me a share, whether I hunted with them or not. My not being able to talk with them they did not seem to think at all surprising — my having been made white after death, in their opinion, having made me foolish ; however, they took considerable pains to teach me their language, and expressed great delight when I i 1 40 LIFE OF BUCKLEV. got hold of a sentence, or even a word, so as to pro- nounce it somewhat correctly; they then would chuckle, and laugh, and give me great praise. I now became a tolerable efficient sportsman, being able to. throw the spear, and handle the tomahawk very adroitly. They also instructed me in every art they knew. They taught me to skin the kangaroo and opossums with muscle-shells, in the same way sheep are dressed with the knife ; to stretch and dry them in the sun ; to prepare the sinews for sewing them together for rugs ; and to trim them with pieces of flint. I be- came, also, expert at catching eels, by spearing them in the lakes and rivers ; but in the latter they generally catch them with lines— the bait being a large earth worm. Having these worms ready, they get a piece of elastic bark, and some long grass, on which they string them ; this is tied to a rod, and as the eel, after biting, holds on tenaciously, he is thrown or rather jerked upon the bank, in the same way as boys catch the cray-flsh in England. Some of these eels are very fine, and large. They are generally — and more easily — caught by the natives during the night, and are eaten roasted. They used to take me out on calm evenings to teach me how to spear salmon, bream, &c. Their manner is to get some very dry sticks, cut them into lengths of ten or twelve feet,, tie several of these together into a kind of faggot, and then light the thickest end ; with this torch biasing in one hand, and a spear in the other, they go into the water, and the fish seeing it, crowd round and are easily tolled and taken. This— as the LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 41 reader is perhaps aware— is the general practice through- out all the world : and I mention the custom merely as one amongst others. They cook their fish by roast- ing, but they do so somewhat more carefully than their other food ; for they put thick layers of green grass on the hot ashes, and lay their fish upon them, covering them with another layer, and then some hot ashes upon the top. In this way they'bake as well— but not so cleanly — as in an oven. Before we left this place, we were unexpectedly in- truded upon by a very numerous tribe, about three hundred. Their appearance, coming across the plain, occasioned great alarm, as they were seen to be the Waarengbadawa, with whom my tribe was at enmity. On their approach, our men retreated into the lake, and smeared their bodies all over with clay, preparatory to a fight. The women ran with their children into the bush, and hid themselves, and being a living dead man, as they supposed, I was told to accompany them. On the hostile tribe coming near, I saw they were all men, no women being amongst them. They were smeared all over with red and white clay, and were by far the most hideous looking savages I had seen. In a very short time the fight began, by a shower of spears from the contending parties. One of our men advanced singly, as a sort of champion ; he then began to dance and sing, and beat himself about with his war imple- ments; presently they all sat down, and he seated himself also. For a few minutes all was sQent ; then our champion stood up, and commenced dancing and 42 . LIFE OP BUCKLEY. singing again/ Seven or eight of the savages — for «o I must call them— our opponents, then got up also, and threw their spears at him ; but, with great dexterity, he warded them off, or broke them every one, so that he did not receive a single wound. They then threw their boomerangs at him, but he warded them off also?* wkh ease. After this, one man advanced, as a sort of champion from their party, to within three yards of him, and threw his boomerang, but the other avoided the blow by falling on his hands and knees, and instantly jumping up again he shook himself like a dog coming out of the water. At seeing this, the enemy shouted out in their language " enough," and the two men went and embraced each other. After this, the same two beat their own heads until the blood ran down in streams over their shoulders. A general fight now commenced, of which all this had been the prelude, spears and boomerangs flying in all directions. The sight was very terrific, and their yells and shouts of defiance very horrible. At length one of our tribe had a spear sent right through his body, and he fell. On this, our fellows raised a war cry ; on hearing which, the women threw off their rugs, and each armed with a short club, flew to the assistance of their husbands and brothers; I being peremptorily ordered to stay where I was : my supposed brother's wife remaining with me. Even with this augmentation, our tribe fought to great disadvantage, the enemy being all men, and much more numerous. . As I have said in the early part of this narrative, I XIFE OF BUCKLEY. 43 liad seen skirmishing and fighting in Holland; and knew something therefore, of what is done when men are knocking one another about with powder and shot, in real earnest, bnt the scene now before me was much more frightful — both parties looking like so many devils turned loose from Tartarus. Men and women were fighting furiously, and indiscriminately, covered with blood; two of the latter were killed in this affair, which lasted without intermission for two hours; the Waarengbadawas then retreated a short distance, ap- parently to recover themselves. After this, several messages were sent from one tribe to the other, and long conversations were held — I suppose on the matters in dispute. Night approaching, we retired to our huts, the women making the most pitiable lamentations over the mangled remains of their deceased friends. Soon after dark the hostile tribe left the neighbourhood ; and, on discover- ing this retreat from the battle ground, ours determined on following them immediately, leaving the women and myself where we were. On approaching the enemy's quarters, they laid themselves down in ambush until all was quiet, and finding most of them asleep, lay- ing about in groups, our party rushed upon them, killing three on the spot, and wounding several others. The enemy fled precipitately, leaving their war implements in the hands of their assailants and their wounded to be beaten to death by boomerangs, three loud shouts closing the victors triumph. The bodies of the dead they mutilated in a shocking 44 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. manner, cutting the arms and legs off, with flints, and shells, and tomahawks. When the women saw them returning, they also raised great shouts, dancing about in savage extacy. the bodies were thrown upon the ground, and beaten about with sticks — in fact, they all seemed to be per- fectly mad with excitement; the men cut the flesh off the bones, and stones were heated for baking it ; after which, they greased their children with it, all over. The bones were broken to pieces with tomahawks, and given to the dogs, or put on the boughs of trees for the birds of prey hovering over the horrid scene. Having apparently gratified their feelings of revenge, they fetched the bodies of their own two women who had been killed; these they buried with the customary ceremonies. They dug two round graves with their sticks, about four feet deep, then coiled up the bodies, tying them in their skin rugs, and laying them in the holes, with some boughs, and filling them up with earth : a ring being made round each place by clearing away, and lighting fires. After raking up the ashes over each, the sticks which they had used for digging roots were put over them, as I have already described the spears of the men are, who are killed. They have an idea that they will want them when they come to life again, and the fire left they think will do for them to cook their roots with. Of this provision they generally leave a few days' supply, and whenever they pass near these graves they re-light the fires. LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 45 The bodies are laid on their sides when they bury them, in the same manner as they mostly lie when Hying. We remained by the graves the remainder of that day and the next night, and then proceeded to the borders of another large lake, which they call Tin- wangcontes, in the centre of an extensive plain. There we made our huts with reeds and stones, there being no wood; so bare was it indeed, that we had to go nearly three miles for fuel to cook our food with. We remained there for many months ; perhaps for a year or two, for I had lost all recollection of time. I knew nothing about it in fact, except by the return of the seasons. I had almost given up all hope of ceasing my savage life, and as man accustoms himself to the most extraordinary changes of climate and circum- stances, so I had become a wild inhabitant of the wil- derness, almost in reality. It is very wonderful, but not less strange than true. Almost entirely naked, enduring nearly every kind of privation, sleeping on the ground month after month, year after year, and deprived of all the decencies, and comforts of life, still I lived on, only occasionally suffering from temporary indisposition. I look back now mentally to those times, and think it perfectly miraculous how it could have been. After this very long stay, we received a message to visit another very large lake, many miles round, which they call Kongiadgillock. On one side it is very rocky, and on the other are extensive plains, lightly timbered. About four miles from the shore in 46 LIFE OF BUCKLEY; a small island about two miles square; this island may be reached on one side the lake, the water being only knee deep, a high bank running out from the shore towards it, and forming a sort of isthmus. On this island we found an immense number of swans and other wild birds. We made our huts a short distance from the tribe who had invited us to visit them, and here we had as many swan's eggs as we could con- sume ; and there were many more: they were the first I had eaten, and I thought them, by way of change, a great treat. The first day we passed at our new lo- cality, the other tribe said they would take us home with them and have a Corrobberree, after visiting the island. On arriving there we found it literally covered with eggs, so that we very soon filled all our rush baskets ; they were laying about in heaps, there being nothing like nests. Our friends whom we visited, al- lowed us to fill our baskets first, and then they loaded theirs. This continued for several days, and each night we had a Corrobberree. At length the tribe left us, apparently in great haste, but for what cause I could not make out, but I anticipated mischief from their manner, and thought some dispute had occurred amongst them on one of the days when I did not go with them to the island. Our tribe did not interfere in any way. At length we started further up the' lake, and arrived at a part that is very narrow. Here we killed a great many swans, which were served out to each family according to its wants ; their method of dressing these birds is by roasting, as before described. The next LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 47 day the women separated from the men, and painted themselves all over with white clay ; and the men did so with red, at the same time ornamenting themselves with emu feathers, whieh they tied round their waists : they were in every other way quite naked. ' Some of them acted as Musicians, beating their skin rugs with sticks, which they stretched across their knees, whilst they were squatted on the ground. They then set up a dance, the men remaining as spectators, encouraging them with cheers, and all sorts of noises. This diver- sion finished, as usual, with a regular fight, beating each other about with their clubs most unmercifully. I afterwards understood this quarrel to be occasioned by a woman having been forcibly carried away by another tribe : one of those with us. She was living with the man who had taken her, and, as the man and woman were then both present, they wanted to chastise her for not returning to the tribe to which she belonged. In the skirmish this woman was felled by a heavy blow ; seeing this, the men began to prepare for a fight also ; one man threw a boomerang amongst the women, when they all ran away. The native who had stolen the girl, then came forward by himself and told them to take their revenge on him, and began to sing and jump and dance, upon which her father went up to him. They both remained quiet for some time, when the men called out to the father, telling him to let him have her, as the man she had been promised to ,was not worthy of her. Eventually the girl returned to her 48 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. father; • one appeared to be about fifteen years of age, * and certainty was no beauty to fight about. * We next went about forty miles, I should think, to a place they call Kironamaat ; there is near to it a lake •bout tdn miles in circumference. It took us several days to accomplish this march, as we hunted all tbfe way; we halted near a well of fresh water, the lake ' being brackish, and there was a great plain near us. " We here made nets with strips of bark, and caught with them great quantities of shrimps. We lived very sumptuously and in peace for many months at this place, and then went to the borders of another lake, -called Mbodewarri: the water of which was perfectly fresh, abounding in large eels, which we caught in great abundance. In this lake, as well as in most of the others inland, and in the deep water rivers, is a very extraordinary amphibious animal, which the natives call Bunyip, of which I could never see any part, except the back, which appeared to be covered with feathers of a dusky grey colour. It seemed to be about the size of a full grown calf, and sometimes larger ; the creatures only appear when the weather is very calm, And the water smooth. I could never learn from any of the natives that they had seen either the head or tail, so that I could not form a correct idea of their size ; or what they were like. Before we left this place a Bihar, or messenger, came to us ; he had his arms striped with red clay, to denote the number of days it would take us to reach the tribe LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 49 he came from; and the proposed visit was, for us to exchange with them, eels for roots. The time stated for this march would be fourteen days, and the place was called Bermongo, on the Barwin River. We car- ried our fish in kangaroo skins, and reaching- the ap- pointed place of rendezvous, we found about eighty men, women, and children gathered together. The exchange was made in this way; two men of each party delivered the eels and roots, on long sheets of bark, carrying them on their heads, from one side to the other, and so on, until the bargain was concluded. In the evening there was another great Corrobberree, and the next morning a fight ; because one of the women had run away with a man, leaving her husband. It resulted by her being speared very badly. After a short time the tribes separated, making an appointment to meet again for an exchange of food. From this place we went to Beangala, which is now called Indented Heads, where we remained some months, until the time had arrived when we agreed to return for the exchange of fish for roots. On this occasion, how- ever, we took kangaroo instead, to a place called Liblib, by the side of a large lake of shallow water, surrounded by reeds, and which they call Bangeballa. Whilst I was at this place, there was one of the most severe hail storms I think man ever saw. The stones were so very large as to strip the bark off the trees as they descended. Their language had now become familiar to me, and I began to learn by degrees, and by frequent inter- E 50 ]£FE. OF BUCK&fiY. course with the various tribes, something about my shipmates, and former companions. It seemed, that one of them, having, after a few days, separated from the others, was found by the natives and kindly re- lieved by them ; but after some time, they — as it was said — had reason to be jealous of him — he having made too free with their women — so they killed him. The others I never heard anything more about until my arrival in Van Diemen's Land. r m 4. - •W - ». * .-<«> •_. j • ; ,. > • *.? *. »'« it » x \ » LIFB OF BUCKLE*. $1 ' -.v . ". *• ^ ^.Jj CHAPTER IV, f • i MARRIAGE CEREMONIES.— DESTRUCTION OF .GHILDBBJlvrT THE CONSEQUENCES OF JEALOUSY. ANOTHER, R^TLJg. — ANOTHER MODE OF DISPOSING OF THE DEAD. — DE- SCRIPTION OF NATIVES. — SUPERSTITIONS.— ORIGIN OF FIRE. WAR IMPLEMENTS.— MURDEROUS ASSAULT. — CANNIBALISM. " My far off friends, whose memories fill My throbbing bosom,— do they speak Of him whose heart is with them still, Though joy has ceased to light his cheek ?" The only ceremonies they use preparatory to mar- riage are, in the first place, to get the parents' consent, the suitor's best claim is being a good fighter, and an expert hunter — so as to be able to protect and provide for a family. They are not at all particular as to the number of wives such men have ; consequently some have five or six wives, and others none at all. If a man wishes to have a man's grown up sister for a wife, he must give his own — if he has one — in exchange ; but they are very averse to marrying one of their own relations— even of a distant degree. If a woman is supposed to have a child who is not her husband's, they consider it a great disgrace ; and to the infant, death is e 2 52 LIFE OF BUCKLES'. almost certain. If again, a family increases too rapidly, for instance, if a woman has a child within twelve months of .a previous one, they hold a consultation amongst the tribe she belongs to, as to whether it shall Jive or not ; but if the father insists upon the life of the child being spared, they do not persist in its de- struction, and especially if it is a female. At their confinements they receive no assistance whatever, but so soon as the child comes into the world, they wrap it up in a piece of skin rug ; and, if on a journey, move on ; it has no nourishment .but the breast. They name them according to any circumstance tha£ may happen ; perhaps after the lake, or river they are near ; or any accident or event which may have occurred— the whole family changing their names also, until another child is bom — when tjhey change again. . It will be seen by the foregoing,* that jealousy is the prevalent cause of all their quarrel^, for the women and the men are equally under the influences of the Green-eyed Monster. In the fights, however, which ensue, . the poor women get much the worst of it, for after having had their furious combats amongst them- selves^ the husbands think it necessary to turn too also, and thrash them into quietude. The meetings of different tribes, I found were not solely for the purpose of exchanging food, but for the very laudable purposed bringing out their very elegant, amiable, marriageable daughters, to be seen and known, and of course, courted. By this very natural process, much ill-will and wild desperate passions, are unfortu- WFE OF JBUCK&&Y. 53 nately excited— so that wounds, not only of the heart, but of the bead, and frightful murders ensue ; some of them never to be forgiven, until a fearful revenge has followed* Previous to breaking up from our present ground there was another battle, so that when the other tribe left, one of ours stole after them in the night and speared a man dead, who was sleeping in his hut beside his wife; he sent his spear right through him into the ground, for no other cause than that the murdered man had promised him his daughter years before, and had then given her to another. Havifcg had his revenge he returned, afcd boasted of what he had done, upon which his relations and particular friends left the place, ap- parently apprehending an attack* The next morning, those who remained went to the tribe to which the murdered man belonged, and found him rolled up in his rug, ready to be tied up in a tree — a mode of disposing of the dead, who were not enemies, unknown to me before. They selected a strong, if not a lofty tree, and in the branches, about twelve feet up, they placed some logs and branches across, and sheet* of bark; on these they laid the body with the face upwards, inclining toward the setting sun, and over it was placed some more bark and boughs, and then logs as heavy as the branches would bear ; all this being done to protect the body from the birds of prey. Whilst this was going on, the women sat round the tree joining with the widow in the most bitter lamentations, pitiable to hoar. A fixe was, as usual, made all round this extraordinary 54 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. tomb, and at tha^sifom particular which was nearest to the Btttt^ite settings sovthat he might have* in the morning, notojniy the suns cays, hat the fire to cheer and warm texku ■< AIL thmga being completed, one word was 1 atteradj Hranhmdjatey' winch means, he is gone to be made » rtkit*"man, tot not for ever. The mur- dered man appeased to feave been an especial favourite, vawd* the^ inoaming was long and very general. The hair of all w^cut ehort with sharp shells — both men kid wwiifenurdKibfaigt themselves with clay, and the latter scryingiVeay-kinBimtahly throughout the night 'I^fts ^tittch^i^tiyfiaeed. at all this, for their gritf was ^gfcnuin^fandtlieTpoon^^ Christian com- :§md hope toislkbsck upon* I suffered much mentally, so that I determined on once more attempting imj- escape, being sick at heart, '#ftd of these weeses altogether^ for scarcely* mc&tb had -ptaetoi without their being repeated; My gnandians* or I may again sa^ r 4iry: Jfelatiqns^ according to their super- stitious fashion, however assured' me ■ nothing should : happeti to* mej under the -eimnmstances by which I had -^ Ajftetfa long ceirversatHm, the following morning We parted wM the other tribes, apparently on friendly terra*; 4*shftt< length: joined the rest of our people who hid left'tWjHianAiiiavir^ crossed the Barwin, had gone at^fer arf:ttflpoout for mi&hieff. At this- spot, however, i»tfeing was to br had? to eat but shell fish; so we Boon left for jUMfthOrafcout eight males distant, going through a very thick seimktfrreach it, which oocasioned rae groat paiiH— my trowjsers ibeing almost useless, and the slant vug feeing taiy loniypuppir covering. Here we settled down>Jbr^felrrday8, near two fresh water wells, hunftmg oposston* aaad' digging roots. •* .*.->; -•.■* ;-. T . Our next journey was. to iPala&y Pal&e, ^ halting place in -same veuy ^extensive, plai&ft, witb hare and there a < tree •upon: theavrwhei* vwaimiaained mvay months, tkeite being ^QHty^i animalhood and argoftd deal of fish in-thewiater-heles.. ., f Great anxiety was Biilli^'^bdutijoar safetyj and watch was kept night and day f toi prevent: surprise. One day » wnnetbus tribe waa^aeeit ero*aing the-piains coming in our dbeetien, arid alt otrtrparty took to their heels for the nearest ahek«r r wlttnrBvirei.TeeMkined- all the night with nothing toreador iJttjnaiirQS seldom provide ft* ttheir wants hflfoTehrtntl, i^Tho)negtumo^ntng several of our people wcno-iaeBfr out da>veeonaoitre^ and not returning>all that ^y^alid)ilM i^t Aught^ ocaiside- rable apprehension was feltiat^beir lahaaiceiifrThfiifol- 56 LI*B 9jF, JPQfcL%Y. lowiqjj day* ^weyer, , tfcey ,t»faugM Jb? satisfactory is* ^ W*°Bl#l* ffc? W$3F ^.Wb #W* we I* ***• eaejwea, but yqr% pf ft : ,^be with whiqh w« werje on -firi^idljr terms, wtya l^-Wtsi^ jWrtofi*: »&* W- Owr messenger* hfougjhji with t^em sop**, fire-aticka, do that we we5e y ^g^B afcle ty iqa&p firep to cqo t QUT food— having^ in .our hasty. jjBgfci, loft ours behind, uty at the place to wh&fc w$ nw,$eti$aed, , After, spine . tippe, . a , messenger can*& to say the friendly /rib^ hftd fe^nd 4 great abundance J.ibeppme daily, mora acquainted with their language and ha^itau By way of .relieving die monotony of thia ja^atiye, J may as well, therefore, here relate a few^pprticulai*. The n^Y^.,^^ 5 ^ - tha * P* 1 * °* **' oomt °* New, 9pflai>4 jjp^ now known as the cqlosy of Victoria, are + generally of a middle stature, with a dark qqmplecpaa ; but not so dark a§ those of wanner latitudes. 7 Thei,49«B» and features pre not lip* o* wcBuet. 57 strikingly handsome certainly, bat iriany o$ them Would be good4o*kiag, dM they not make «uch horrid frights of themselves by plastering their hair arid iauning their faces and bodies all over with pipe-cl^y and ochre. Their hair is net curty Kke 'the African, W straight, looking tefriWy unsentimental. Iti feet, every Wr of the head appear* to be deranged* or-out of temper with its owner; a*d weU it may be, fer it gets frfgttfolly cut 4 and hacked about* senaetimetr by shells, and timts, and such like; besides being feade the abode of certain living tormentors, which' it would be ira^&ttamfentary JZLft* « vf tfcfeeil M them, attd on them, so as: to have some chance of -escape from the threatened ilanger.' 'Notwithst^ndhigthiM forethought, they set to vk wh&f tee liaoWin^ ok juggling receiving thief is, I couW ie'fer make out; However, it is only one of the same WiPof^rotoettea'lrtdcIs ato fi^Bed ia the other countries Of i ^hai is called (5hrfsfendom ; and as I have no |«rt3cular Wfeb to d^B'u^on &em in this nar- rative^ Iei r ii»'pafc& 6*.' wn-.- - ■• Thetf notidn ^of-fhe oti^ih ef fir* is thia, that as a natrve* wdnm was digging at 'an ant Ml one day, for the ipdrftfcje of get^ig't^ii-- e^gs 1 for eating, a crow flying over her dropped sottiething like dry gras«, which imnieaiatelyljJazed, aad -WL * tree'on Are. For this teal^n; ^bey very faiuch respect the Waakee, as they call the ttrtl, ahd do not KB 'and eat him, unless pres^tjr" f neeeBfity. I Wfflf flow describe their war and bunting imple- iheiife,"attd tten continue my every day narrative of The fet^ar wMcfe fhe^Ttee,4s'fro«tf4ten *> fifteen T feet lo%/a^d' te J made j nf a-soKd piece of wood, very sharp fcEFB :OP, BUCKLEY. 59 at the point— some shewing rows of teeth ; these art called jagged' speaks, because they cannot be. eaaily ex- tracted ftom either man or beast. The native call them KarnwelL There is afeo a anwlleflr ku*Vthe Daar spear, used in httntiag; it; is, made of two piecqs of wood, fastened together with: the aiuswe-of 4hpei^ and have a white flint stone on eaeh side, fe,st)en$d ny aa4 <*&* with giw. These they throw an ajijaaimj;. 4is,fa#ee fu*d with great force, seldom missing the^a^mxa^a.&ajigar roo when boundmg past at full speedy a&ft *tj fi% paces distance; There is also another k*p4o0£ 8^ar : but H is chiefly ttsed in warfare; it is t * v#ry 4*y^Ff*P of wood inserted into a pieae of p^ngr^^-i^.a^oge^P?, being nearly seven feet long, and bonpd ^together, by the smews of 4he kangaroo. They have another fa strument called the marriwan, having- At /the; s$#r end a so}* $f hook: iT^boom^raqg, or wangpai*} as they are called, ist made from a solid piece, of w$od formed in the shape of a-bal&mooai; this they- hurl at their antagonists with great force, l^plding it at one enjl before luting it goi^inp^aga^^theenemy^ : T^ r have a. l^d of shield also made o| wood, abroad solid pieoe of abo)it three feet ^o^ Japepi^g a^faohewl, with a handle cut in the side, so as /to admit the ba^. These shields, which they cril malka, ^^ itf*$ yery dexterously in warding ^pf t^ews ,,*nlaw, as he con? sidexeo! Jumself to bej had shown me how to ascertain when. these, animals were up the trees, and how the natives took fthem;, this was, in the first place, by breathing, hpnj, on the bark, so as to discover if there was any opossum hairs left atta^ed. to it when the animal, ascended* This found, he next out a notch in the bark with hjs tomahawk, in which to insert his toe, and then another notch, holding the tomahawk in his mouth 4ifter making the incision,* and so on upwards ; by this means. climbing tbo highest -twees, and. dragging the animals out of their hok*, and off lie branches by their legs and .tails, and then throwing tijem down to me at the foot ; my business, bring *Pr k£U, jam}, carry them. Atr the former I wa? tolerably -espert> so that he often fried out from ajoft, Morn jig; which mews well done. Vft liyed in>4$k>jer,at tfeis place, getting plenty of opossums, and a very excellent root* .which, whfln routed, J fimud as sweet as a chesnnjfc, and as white as flour. LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 61' Our next halting place Was Morriock, where w6 found a great abundance of squirrels. After being there some time, the greater part of the men left on a distant hunting excursion, leaving about half-a-dozen other men and myself in charge of the women and children. On going Away, they marked their arms 1i the usual manner with stripes, to denote hot? many days they would be absent ; and one man of ours; who remained, did the same; rubbing off one mark each day, to denote the lapse of time. Soon after bur people had left, another tribe came and made their huts verjf near to ours. The very next day they began to show hostile intentions, taking advantage df our weakness, and at length threw their spears, killing a boy and girli "Upon this a conflict ensued, which lasted aborit an hour. Finding we could defend ourselves, they very soon left J and we immediately sent awiay a* messenger to' oiir tribe to tell them what had happened in their absence. They returned as quickly as possible, and a war council was held as to tlid propriety of following the others, which ended in preparations' being made for a pursuit. The smearing with pipeclay began again, ahd the spears and other Implements were made ready for 1 action. ' It appeared the* ofeuse of their attack upon us was some ver^ old grievance about the 1 women. I aim sorry to say it, bu*'these dear creaturefs were at the bottom of every mischief. FrdnV Atfam, thaft old 7 root : '6!%ger, downward^ it has always tteori flte^ssine, itiWery clfAe, and nations-Then why^faMicV -iny'vefr^ £re^ 'looking, .ijji-.t c>* *:- 62 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. g lightly clad Venuses, to be worse than others? — On their part, I repudiate the imputation. The next morning our party started, fully armed for the cojnbat^. and with passions highly excited at the thought of the advantage taken of them by their cowardly assailants. After they were gone, we, who were left, buried the bodies of the children in the usual manner. - * * After two days' absence, our fighting men returned, several of them severely wounded; but their revenge was satisfied^ for they had killed two of their opponents. The next place we went; to was called Ballackillock, where we found a tribe already settled, if a few days' residence under sheets of bark and branches of trees, may be so called Both parties were very friendly for a short time, and tfyen there was "a great fight, in which a young woman, about twenty years of age, was speared through the thigh. As she belonged to our tribe, she was brought into bur huts, from whence it seemed, she had absconded with a man of the other party, without her parents' knowledge. Hie quarrel being over, and all quiet, the men went to the lake fishing, leaving the women to their usual occupation, and the poor girl by herself in one of the huts. The man she had eloped with knowing all this, went to her, and carried her off; so that when the tribe returned they discovered the flight of the fugitives, on whom they vowed vengeance. All went on as usual for a few days more, and then we shifted agjain, and for some time kept moving about, killing squirrels and opossums — the skins of both being very LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 63 much estimated. There is another kind of animal the natives kill and eat — it is called the kaxbor, 1 about the size of a dog— thick and short in the hbdv^ with a tremendous large head, and very short legp, armed with claws covered over with thick frizzly hair of a light brown colour ; they inhabit the branches of liigh trees in the day, but at night they descend tot oat the grass, and roots, these being their principal food. When wounded they make the most pitiable criep, }ik$ those of young children in pain ; they make thel same noise in the night; and many a time have they kept me awake whilst on my lonely wanderings/, Tney "are very harmless, making no resistance when taken, might be easily domesticated, are excellent eating, and very much resembling pork in flavour. They carry" their young in a pouch under the belly the same" as the kan- garoo; and, notwithstanding their singular and some- what unwieldy appearance, are very active, springing from branch to branch, like squirrels. . . * ■ ■ ■ We now started to meet,, by invitation, another tribe who were halted near a small stream running into the Barwin. The second day, we reached the appointed place, which the natives call Monwak, but they were not there ; so we sent off a messenger to inform them of our approach ; at length we found them, in great strength, smearing themselves all over with clay, a*d apparently preparing for some important occasion. On learning this, our tribe did the same/ jumping about as if mad. In the afternoon the others arrived, with 64 nam of btjcklby. the man who had ran sway with the girl of our tribe at their head; the whole body following him m some- thing like close column, so that I saw clearly there would be another battle. In the first place, they seated themselves on their rugs, in groups of half-dozens, or thereabouts, keeping their spears, and shields, and waddies all ready at hand; our party being prepared also. At length the young man already mentioned, advanced towards us. He had bunches of emu's feathers tied to different parts of his body by a kind of yarn they make by twisting the hair of the opossum ; he was cutting the most ex- traordinary capers, and challenged our men to fight — an offer which was accepted practically — by a boomerang being thrown at him, and which grazed his leg. A spear was then thrown, but he warded it off cleverly with his shield. He made no return to this, but kept capering and jumping about, until one of our men ad- vanced very near to him, with only a shield and a waddie, and then the two went to work in good earnest, blow following blow, until the first had his shield split, so that he had nothing to defend himself with but his waddie. His opponent took advantage of this, and struck him a tremendous blow on one side of the head, and knocked him down ; but he was instantly on his legs again, the blood however flowing very freely over his back and shoulders. His friends then cried out enough, and threatened general hostilities if another blow was struck; and this having the desired effect, LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 65 " ''-7.1 they all, Boon after, separated quietly, tljus ending an affair which at one time promised to conclude very differently. The next day we moved on to another fresh water lake of considerable extent, where we encamped, not very much at our ease, as we saw another tribe on the opposite shore. In the middle of the night we heard a dreadful uproar in that direction, and in the' morning learned that those we had seen before dark had been fallen upon by some others whilst they were sleeping ; so on hearing this we went to their assistance. On our arrival a horrid scene presented itself, many women and children laying about in all directions, wounded and sadly mutilated. Several of the poor creaturei had rushed into the lake and were drowned. The few who had escaped were hiding themselves in the reeds ; but on our proffering assistance and protection, they joined us, and went to our huts. The dead were left, it not being safe to lose time in burying them, as our number was not sufficient to make us safe from a similar attack. The day following we therefore left the spot, and kept wandering about for some time after, until we came again to our old quarters at Moodewari, where we remained some months. Having come to another halt, the better way perhaps will be, for me here to state, that the tribes are divided into families ; or rather, I should say, composed of them — each tribe comprising from twenty to sixty of them. They acknowledge no particular Chief as being superior to the rest; but, he who is most skilful anc} F 66 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. useful to the general community, is looked upon with the greatest esteem, and is considered to be entitled to more wives than any of the others. They contrive to keep a tolerable account, by recollection, of their pedi- gree, and will not, as I observed before, knowingly marry a relation — except where two brothers happened to be married, and one dies ; in that case the survivor claims the widow; in fact, as many wives or widows as he has left behind him. Should the women object, there is little chance of their lives being spared, as this law of custom is absolute. They are in general, very kind to their children, excepting the child is from any cause, believed to be illegitimate ; and again, when a woman has been promised to one man, and is afterwards given to another; in such case, her first- born is almost invariably killed at its birth. The tribes would be much more numerous were it not for these barbarous and inhuman sacrifices. As soon as the children are able to toddle about, they begin, as if by instinct, to search for food, and at four or five years of age, are able to dig roots and live 4 without the aid of their parents ; to whom, as may be supposed, their drapery, and washing and combing, etc., is no sort of trouble. They are all stark naked, and tumble about in the lagoons and rivers, like so many jolly young porpoises playing in the sun. They have a brutal aversion to children who happen to be deformed at their birth. I saw the brains of one dashed out at a blow, and a boy belonging to the same woman made to eat the mangled remains. The act of LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 67 cannibalism was accounted for in this way. The woman at particular seasons of the moon, was out of her senses ; the moon — as they thought— having affected the child also ; and, certainly, it had a very singular appearance. This caused her husband to deny his being the father, and the reason given for making the boy eat the child was, that some evil would befall him if he had not done so. r I 68 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. CHAPTER V. DREADFUL ASSASSINATION. — NATIVE MUSIC— ODD HABITS AND SUPERSTITIONS. — THE KALKEETH ANT. — DESCRIP\ TION OF TOMAHAWK. — MORE FIGHTS AND MISCHIEF. — FATAL ACCIDENT. VENEMOUS SNAKES. LOSS OF MT FRIENDS AND SUPPOSED RELATIONS. 44 Ev'n the low hut — poor shelter — while he slept, Shook in the earthquake, or the storm, or rain: Thus, sick at heart, the Exile stood and wept, O'er thought and care, and hope and toil, in rain.' 1 Having told this horrible tale, let us now return to our halting place at Moodiwiri, when, after a long time another tribe joined us, and a dispute arose about sur- rendering a woman who had been carried away. The man who had her with him refused to give her up, so she was forcibly taken from him and brought to the hut I was in, very much to my dissatisfaction. I was greatly annoyed at it, because I thought the matter would not end there, and so it turned out; for when the native from whom she had been taken, found she was gone, he resolved on vengeance, and with this view, when we were all asleep, he came to our hut and speared the LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 69 mm of whom he was jealous. He pierced him to the ground, right through his body. Hearing the noise occasioned by this assault, I gave the alarm, but he was gone, taking with him the woman. The poor fellow's brother who was wounded, and myself, endeavoured to draw the spear, but could not, even by twisting it round, it being jagged; at length a woman succeeded, but although everything was done to save him, he died in a very few hours. The next day he was buried, or rather suspended on the branches of a tree as before described, his mother making horrible lamentations, and burning her body all over with fire-sticks. The next day the men set off to find the murderer, but not succeeding, they returned a little before dark. A short time after this affair we shifted our quarters, and, when on a hunting excursion, accidentally fell in with the tribe to which he belonged, and a very des- perate fight ensued. As is the case with them in such matters, when the parents cannot be punished for any wrong done, they inflict it upon the offspring. So now, the savages having got hold of a child of about four years of age, which this man had had by the young woman before referred to, they immediately knocked it on the head, and having destroyed it, they killed the murderer's brother, also spearing his . mother through the thigh, and wounding at the same time several others ; so that vengeance was heaped upon him and his tribe in, a most dreadful manner. However, the man himself having escaped, he, with others, went in the night to the hut of the savage who had killed his brother, and 70 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. speared him dead; having done which, they cut the most of the flesh off his body, carrying it away on their spears to mark their triumph. The next day and night there was a continued uproar of dancing and singing, to notify their joy at these horrible events ; during which, the mangled remains of the man were roasted between heated stones — and they eat part of them, and no mis- take; for I saw them join in the horrible repast, and was requested to do so likewise, which of course I re* fused to do, evincing the greatest disgust at their pro- ceedings. Having been rescued from death by starvation, it is only natural that I should, from a feeling of gratitude, desire to save the natives from so great a reproach ; but the truth must prevail, and that many of the natives inhabiting this part of the continent of New Holland are cannibals, under particular circumstances, cannot be doubted. During their savage and brutal repast, I was told it was their intention to serve every one of the mur- derer's tribe in the same manner. After this affair, we continued wandering about in a similar way, from place to place, joining one tribe, then leaving it for another, and so on, nothing particular occurring. At length we pitched our huts upon the borders of a lake or lagoon, with a long name, it being called Koodgingmurrah, the name they give to a root growing thereabouts. At that place another tribe joined us, and in a very few days another skirmish took place, and, as usual, it was all about the women. In this LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 71 fight I was very nearly killed by a boomerang, which split my shield in two. It appeared not to have been intended for me, but for my supposed brother-in-law. The man, in spite of my intercession, was punished very severely for having thrown it; for which, however, he professed great sorrow. Having been slightly wounded in the hand, and the blood flowing, the women came crying, and bound it up with a piece of rug, tying it round with opossum sinews. The next morning we went to the other side of the lake, where we remained many months. Another halt — let me then make the best of it, by relating something more about the habits of my Abori- ginal friends : the wild uncivilized inhabitants of the forest, the uncultivated children of nature; thousands of whom live unknown, and die unpitied. All those I met with, excepting in times of war, or lamentation, I found to be particularly fond of what they consider music, although they have no kind of instrument except the skin rug, which, stretched from knee to knee, they beat upon, others keeping time with sticks. So passionately attached are they even to this noise, that they often commence in the night, one family setting them on, until at last they one and all become a very jolly set, keeping it up in one con- tinual strain until daylight. I have often wished them and their enchanting enlivening strains on the other side of the Continent, with the queer old conjuror who manages the props already mentioned* to whom I must Jiowev^r javQid^lluding more pajtficujarjy. 7J / LIFE OP BUCKLEY. They have a great aversion to the use of water, unless for the purposes of drinking, and bathing in the summer season, so that their washing processes are not very labourious or extensive. Nature, as it is, reigns in aft her glory with them, without artificial assistance. My gentlemen, and lady friends, as may be supposed, knew nothing about tailors, and dressmakers, hairdres- sers, or boot and shoe makers ; they were as ignorant in all such matters as Eve or Adam. They, however, take great pains in greasing and painting themselves in the most fantastic manner. Their style of shaving is not the most agreeable, for when the beard is nearly fill grown they singe it with a fire-stick, or pluck it off with a muscle-shell. They have a great aversion to grey hairs, whether in the head or beard. The women pluck them out whenever they appear on their husbands or their own heads, until old father Time gets the better of them at that work. They are very fond of ornaments — the women especially — and in their manufacture, are very ingenious. Their head-bands are netted like silk purses, and they do this kind of work without any needle or other instrument — using their fingers only. They make these bands as even as it could be done by- the most experienced person with tiilk or thread, leaving a piece at each end to tie round the forehead, colouring them with ochre. Their neck ornaments are made like silk velvet guards. Upon these are strung a great number of pieces of shells, and of the teeth of the kangaroo, adding too, the feathers of the #wan and emu ; the strongest of which they split in LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 73 the middle, in order to make them more pliable. Many of the women have rings made out of the bones of birds suspended from the inside of their nostrils, and the men have a small straight bone with a sort of knob at one end. Those who have the most ornaments are con- sidered the most fashionable and attractive. The baskets I mentioned before are made of rushes and grass, dried and split; and so nicely are they turned out of hand, as to have the appearance of those manufactured in India ; but they are much more dur- able. No person could suppose they were the handy- work of an uncivilized people. To return. We remained at the opposite side of the lake, until the approach of spring. Here they made their food principally of the large ants called the kalkeeth, which are found in hives within hollow trees. In order to ascertain where they are, the trees are struck with the tomahawk, and, at the noise, they show themselves at the holes. An entrance for the hand is then made, and so they are taken out and put into baskets, being, at the proper season, as fat as marrow. These creatures are prepared for eating, by placing them on slips of bark about three feet long and one foot wide, and so, burnt, or roasted. It is only for about one month in each year they can be had, for after that time they are transformed to large flies, and then fly away to die, or again change their shape and nature. Having finished this ant hunting and eating ex- pedition, we shifted our quarters ; but before I go any further I must say something about their tomahawks; 74 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. which, perhaps, as a very important instrument, ought to have been mentioned in an earlier part of this nar- rative. The heads of these instruments are made from a hard black stone, split into a convenient thickness, without much regard to shape. This they rub with a very rough granite stone, until it is brought to a fine thin edge, and so hard and sharp as to enable them to fell a very large tree with it. There is only one place that I ever heard of in that country, where this hard and splitting stone is to be had. The natives call it karkeen ; and say, that it is at a distance of three hundred miles from the coast, inland. The journey to fetch them is, therefore, one of great danger and diffi- culty ; the tribes who inhabit the immediate localities being very savage, and hostile to all others. I was told, that it required an armed party of resolute fight- ing men, to obtain supplies of this very necessary article ; so that the tomahawk is considered valuable for all purposes. They vary in weight from four to fourteen pounds ; the handles being thick pieces of wood split, and then doubled up, the stone being in the bend, and fixed with gum, very carefully prepared for the purpose, so as to make it perfectly secure when bound round with sinews. A messenger now came from another tribe, to tell us they would be glad to see our party near a river they called Booneawillock— so named from a sort of eels they call Boonea— with which that stream abounds. It was very much aweollen, in consequence of heavy floods, so that we could not cross it, to join our friends; jLIFE OP BUCKLEY* 75 we therefore pitched our huts on the other side. Many parts of that river are rocky, leaving but an incon- siderable depth of water, into which the e&te ,g$t in great numbers ; indeed so numerous were they, that we caught them in dozens. These eels appeared to he very sagacious, but not so much 00 as to avoid our fishing parties; for although they would shoot away into deep water at the falling of a star, or any extra- ordinary noise, yet they would come to our fishing torches and allow themselves to be taken very placidly. When the flood in the river — which had been occa- sioned by very heavy and continuous rains— itad sub- sided, we passed over, and hutted ourselves on the other side. Another tribe soon after joined us, amount- ing to about one hundred men, women, and children. I should here say, that the eels mentioned, seemed inexhaustible at this place, those of the smallest kind being the most numerous. They are light blue on the back, with white bellies; these the natives call the Mordong; and the larger kind, the Babbanien; the latter being brown on the back, with white bellies. The tribe which arrived the last, only remained a few days, when another .fight occurred, again about the women— one of whom was killed, and several severely wounded : they then left. We also shifted our quarters a short time after, and kept up the old fancy of wander- ing about; not exactly from " post to pillar," but from one hunting ground to another, seeking variety of food, from fish to flesh, from roots to anything available ; for the natives are, in truth, a rambling lot, never 76 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. content — unless sleeping, and then dreaming of Corrob- berrees, and fights, and mischief. In one of these excur- sions, one of our men was bitten by a snake whilst stepping over a fallen tree, of which bite the poor fellow died immediately. As he was one of the prin- cipal men of the tribe, his death caused great sorrow, and he was buried; or, rather stowed away in the branches of a very high tree, with all the honors suited to his value, as one of this very estimable community, of which I had, involuntarily, become a member. Time passed on, and a variety of circumstances occurred to separate us, so that I was at last left with my supposed relations, and only two or three other families — each living in our separate huts. One day we saw a large party of natives coming to- wards us, but they passed on to the back, at a distance; and, when there, began to polish themselves up with clay, and ochre, as if for a fight; it occasioned us great alarm; but we hoped our defenceless position would induce them to treat us mercifully. There were about sixty of them, and they soon undeceived us as to their intentions ; for they came first to the other bank of the river, shaking their spears; and then crossing over, attacked us so furiously, as to give the women and children only time to attempt escape. My old friend, and supposed brother-in-law, had a spear sent right through his body, and then they hunted out his wife and killed her dead upon the spot. The savages then came back to where I was supporting my wounded LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 77 friend; who, seeing them approaching, sprang up, even in the last agonies of death, and speared the nearest assailant in the arm. My friend was, of course, dis- patched immediately, with spears and boomerangs; as was a son of his, who was with us at the time. Strange to say, not one raised his hand against me ; had I done so against them, I must have been sacrificed instantly ; for what could I do, being only one against so many ? The cause of this sudden unprovoked cruelty was not, as usual, about the women, but because the man who had been killed by the bite of the snake belonged to the hostile tribe, and they believed my supposed brother- in-law carried about with him something that had oc- casioned his death. They have all sorts of fancies of this kind, and it is frequently the case, that they take a man's kidneys out after death, tie them up in some- thing, and carry them round the neck, as a sort of protection and valuable charm, for either good or evil. They took the son's life because he had a daughter, who he had promised to the man who killed him, and had afterwards given her to another. I should have been most brutally unfeeling, had I not (Buffered the deepest mental anguish from the loss of these poor people, who had all along been so kind and good to me. I am not ashamed to say, that for several hours my tears flowed in torrents, and, that for a long time I wept unceasingly. To them, as I have said before, I was as a living dead brother, whose presence and safety was their sole anxiety. Nothing could exceed the kindness these poor natives had shown me, and 78 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. now they were dead, murdered by the band of savage* I saw around me, apparently thirsting for more blood. Of all my sufferings in the wilderness, there was nothing equal to the agony I now endured. My feelings made me desperate, so that when a tall powerful fellow came to the hut some time after, to demand my friend's spears, I refused, in fierce language, to surrender them, so that he desisted ; ordering me however away, with a quantity of fish, and his rug, to where his wife and family were, telling me to wait there until his arrival ; at the same time, assuring me of his good-will and future friendship. These I did not choose to rely upon, and so, after having arrived at a convenient distance from the scene of these savage murders, I resolved on making my escape* With this view, I tied my spears together, and put myself in light marching order, rolled up my rug as tightly as possible, crossed the river, and made for the bush; going in another direction to that which I thought it likely the savages would follow in pursuit. After what I have stated as to their cold-blooded murders, I may surely call them savages, although, as we have seen, there are many kind-hearted creatures amongst them. When I got about four miles, I unexpectedly fell in with a tribe I knew, to whom, my hurry and fright was a source of great anxiety. I tpld them all that had happened, on hearing which, they immediately prepared for vengeance on the murderers, for the young man was amongst them to whom my old friend's son had given LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 79 the girl, instead of the man who had so barbarously murdered their father. Before they set off, they directed me where I should find them after the expedition they were going upon was over; so I started for the place appointed, near the Barwin River. The next day I swam across that river; taking with me my spears, and rugs, and fire-stick, and before night, set up my hut in a place from whence I could view the country all round. Before I lighted the fire, I made a turf and bark fence all about where it was to be, so that the flame should not be seen, for I was naturally in great dread of being overtaken. In this way I lived a few days, waiting for my friends. At length, one evening, I saw a light coming across the plain in my direction. This occasioned me great alarm, as I did not suppose the friendly tribe would travel in the night ; so I put my fire out, hid my spears and fish, and concealed myself amongst the high reeds growing in the neigh- bourhood. After a time I heard female voices, and then on* of them say, " where can he be gone?" some surmising one cause, and some another, for my absence. This satisfied me that all was right, so I approached, agreeably surprising them by my appearance. They were five young women belonging to the last party we had met with, who had made their escape, in conse- quence of another great fight which had ensued be- tween my old friends, and the tribe who had killed my protectors. They told me, three men of the hostile party had been killed, and that they had burned the bodies of my said-to-be brother-in-law, his wife, and 80 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. his son, to prevent their enemies from mangling them; and, that if the women had not left, they would have been taken away by force by the opposite party. They, poor creatures, were dreadfully hungry and fatigued ; so I gave them all the food I had and kept them in my hut until the morning, when two of them left, the other three remaining for several days longer, waiting for their friends. Finding they did not come, according to their appointment, they then went away also. Having reason to think something had occurred to prevent their arrival, I returned to the scene of the brutal massacre; and finding the ashes and bones of my late friends, I scraped them up together, and covered them over with turf, burying them in the best manner I could, that being the only return I could make for their many kindnesses. I did so in great grief at the re* collection of what they had done for me through so many years, and in all my dangers and troubles. My next move was back again to the hut I had left on the plains where the women had found me, and the following day the others came according to their promise. They endeavoured to persuade me to join them per- manently, saying they would protect me; that, as I was alone I should certainly be killed; but I refused, having no faith in their professions, and being sick at heart, M> shortly after witnessing all these atrocities. After staying a short time at this spot, they left me, crossing over the river, and when they were out of sight, I packed up my traps, and started in an opposite direc- tion, going towards the sea. When at a place called LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 81 Mangawhawz, where there was a well of fresh water and plenty of all kinds of fish, I put up a hut, and remained there several months alone. I had now passed so many years in this sort of way — more I should think than five-and-twenty — and had got so much accustomed to the kind of life, as to have forgotten the use of my own language, and began to be careless about every thing civilized, fancying I could never return to a better kind of existence, or to the intercourse of any other society than that of the tribes, if I was again forced into communication with them. I had ascertained from the natives long before, that the Calcutta had left the bay, and that the first settlement had been abandoned. I often looked towards the sea, thinking I might observe some vessel passing; but no, not one ; for at that time there was little voyaging round the coast, — South Australia, and the other settlements, not having been formed, and ships from Sydney keeping well off the land, few of them passing through the Straits at any time. Although so desolately placed, I, for a long time, fancied myself comparatively happy, and that I could gladly have ended my days there. If I had had books they would have been totally useless, having forgotten all the little knowledge I had learned in my early days ; therefore I could only seek my food, — eat, drink, and sleep; but how I could have passed so long a time in such a way, is to me now a matter of bewildering as- tonishment. It is related in the fabulous history of Robinson Crusoe, that he was fortunate enough to save a Bible from the wreck of his ship, and by that means. a 82 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. consoled and benefitted himself ; but I, the real Crusoe, for so many years amongst savages, in the then un- known forests and wilds of the vast Australian Conti- nent, had no such help to my mind, and I beg the humane reader to reflect on this circumstance with feelings of kindly sympathy — for mine was, in truth, a sad existence. I was indeed a lone man, without any other resource than an entire reliance upon the great God, who had so wonderfully preserved me; and to whom, I say again, I did not forget to pray earnestly and fervently, for health, sustenance, and protection. LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 83 CHAPTER VI. FISHING HUT ON THE KARAAF RIVER. GREAT SUCCESS.- — THE WOMBAT. DOMESTIC CEREMONIES OF THE NATIVES GREY HAIR. ANOTHER MURDER. CANNIBALISM.. — MY MARRIAGE. MY WIFE ELOPES, AND LEAVES ME VERY DISCONSOLATE ! HER FATE. MONSTER SNAKE. BLIND BOY. RETURN TO MY HOME ON THE KARAAF RIVER. " The breeze came gently o'er me from the West, Where the last sunbeams linger e'er they part ; Along the beach I lay, to sleep, and rest My wearied limbs, and still more wearied heart." At length I was compelled to leave my quarters and mo^e'to the Karaaf River again, where I built a more substantial hut, the locality being full of roots. Unfor- tunately I had no dog to hunt the kangaroo, so my de- pendence was chiefly upon the fish, which sometimes however, were very scarce. Before I made this change of quarters the winter had set in very tempestuously and I suffered very much from the cold weather and continued rains. One day, whilst watching the fish, I saw a great shoal of bream come into the mouth of the river, making their way up a long distance, to a bend where it branches off, and where it is of considerable g 2 84 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. depth. When the tide turned, they came down with it again, and it occurred to me that if I could by any means stop them in their retreat by a sort of wear, I should have a great supply of food, thus placed at my command, as it would seem, by Providence; so I turned my thoughts to this all that day, and all night long. After examining the river, I found a spot suited to the purpose, where the tide did not rise above two feet, and here I resolved on making the attempt. With this view, I set to work making faggots with rushes and boughs of trees,— carrying them down to the bank of the river; and, at the same time, preparing long stakes, sharpened at one end, to make them fast in the sand. At length I had a sufficient number together to commence operations, and taking advantage of the tide when it receded, I set about my undertaking, and com- pleted a, wear, working incessantly; so that when the fish came down with the stream in thousands, they found themselves intercepted, and being apparently confounded at this, they turned tail up again, and then down, and so on; but by that time the top of my wear was above the surface, and they were obliged to sur- render at discretion. I caught in this way, consider- able numbers, and consequently was in great delight ; for with them, and the roots growing thereabout, I had food in abundance. I gathered—- or rather caught, I should say— heaps of them, and employed myself in drying and preserving them— many of these fish weigh- ing three pounds each and more, — being also of very delicious flavour. With feelings of comparative content, LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 85 I set about improving my habitation, making it more substantial and comfortable, by getting some logs, and making the roof better able to resist the cold and rains. The branches of trees and their supporters I covered with turf^ making the sides of that material, forming a chimney of the same; so that after a few days' labour, I found myself more at home in my solitary abode, having from the door-way a long view over the plain, and out to sea. It was necessary, I found, to consult the moon, so as to judge of the ebbing and flowing of the tides; for the fish, I ascertained came and went accordingly ; and therefore, in order to prevent a scarcity, it was proper I should dry them in the sun, by spreading them about on the trees, and on the roof of my hut, taking them inside on every appearance of rain, or other unfavour- able weather. There was another sort of food very useful to me ; this was a particular kind of root the natives call Murning — in shape, and size, and flavour, very much resembling the radish. Whilst employed with my fish one day, I heard voices near me. One said u Amadeat," meaning, white . man. The first thing to be done was to conceal myself; but presently I saw two men, and two women, with several children. One of them called out, in their lan- guage, " It is me/' meaning by that, they were friends, and that I need not be alarmed. I soon found they belonged to the tribe of my old friend: my tribe, I may say. On seeing me, the women began to cry with joy at finding me safe. It was more than a year, perhaps 86 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. nearly two, since I had met them, or any human being ; and they supposed me to have been killed long since. One of the men took a leg of kangaroo out of his basket, and some of the roots and gum they had, and gave them to me ; and in return, I took them to my hut and' offered them fish, of which food I showed them my great abundance, and told them my adventures since we parted ; at which they expressed much delight, singing and capering about in a most wild and extra- vagant manner. When I explained my plan of entrapping the fish, they could not contain themselves for joy, patting me on the back, and saying I deserved three or four wives for my invention. For some cause or other they then told their women to go away; they, however, would not, but began stamping and beating the ground, ex- pressive of their dissatisfaction. After a time the men went off to spear fish, and on their return they set up their huts near mine, and so made themselves comfort- able for many days. After a time they persuaded me to accompany them to a salt lake, called Nellemengo- beet, about five miles off, which lake is only separated from the sea by a narrow belt, or sand-bank. Near it was a well of very good water, and there we en- camped, our object being to gather gum and roots. When the moon was again at the full we returned to the Karaaf — my old fishing quarters; where our success was so great, that one of the party went away to fetch the remainder of the tribe, to share with us in kindness' our abundant supplies. They soon joined us, LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 87 bringing with them a quantity of kangaroo ; and see- ing we were so comfortable, they pitched their huts beside our party. Having heard of the massacre of my friends, they vowed vengeance against the murderers ; but the re- sources of food I had provided by means of the wears, being so ample, they remained content for a long time, heaping upon me all the civilitiel possible, for having put them in the way of procuring fish for themselves and families so easily. After some time, we all went away together in search of the kangaroo, of which we killed a great many, as also of the norngnor — an animal about the size of a small pig. It is the creature the English call the wombat. They live in holes in the earth, of about twenty feet long and from ten to twenty deep, in an oblique direction, burrowing in them like the mole. When well cooked, they are good eating. The mouth of this creature is furnished with large teeth, their ears scarcely discernable, their legs being very short and armed with long claws; the skin is very tough, with short hair upon it, but they are without tails. The wombats feed on grass chiefly, only venturing out after dark, or on moonlight nights, returning to their burrows at day-break. The natives take these crea- tures by sending a boy or girl into their burrows, which they enter feet first, creeping in backwards until they touch the animal. Having discovered the. lair, they call out as loud as they can, beating the ground overt head, whilst those above are carefully listening,— their 88 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. ears being pressed close to the earth. By this plan of operations, they are enabled to tell with great precision the spot where they are. A perpendicular hole is then made, so as to strike the extremity of the burrow : and having done this, they dig away with sharp sticks, lifting the mould out in baskets. The poor things are easily killed, for they offer no resistance to these intru- sions on their haunts! There is, however, a good deal of difficulty in making these holes, and in getting down so deep to them — so that it is a sort of hunting for food, of which the natives are not very fond. Except when the wombat has young, it is seldom that more than one is found in a hole. The animal is generally roasted whole, after having had the entrails taken out, which is all the preparation — the fire doing all the rest. And whilst alluding to this method of cookery, I may as well state, that in summer fire is very easily obtained by rubbing together two sticks of the wood they call Dealwark. They sometimes carry these unlighted fire-sticks about with them, wrapped up in a sort of covering made of opossum hair. In the winter months they are often very much distressed for fire, and suffer greatly from hunger and cold; their only covering being skin rugs, sown together with smews — using as needles fine bones of the kangaroo. These rugs serve them also to lay upon. Considering how they are ex- posed to the weather, it is wonderful how little they suffer from idleness; for, excepting a sort of erysipelas, or scurvy, with which they are sometimes afflicted, they are In general very healthy. I never observed any LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 89 European contagious disease prevalent, in the least degree; and this I thought strange. There was at one time however, I now recollect, a complaint which spread through the country, occasioning the loss of many lives, attacking generally the healthiest and strongest, whom it appeared to fix upon in preference to the more weakly. It was a dreadful swelling of the feet, so that they were unable to move about, being also afflicted with ulcers of a very painful kind. I may as well here also mention a curious custom they have relative to their domestic affairs — if such a term can be applied to such a people. In many in- stances, a girl, almost as soon as she is born, is given to a man. After this promise, the mother of the child never again voluntarily speaks to the intended husband before he takes her to himself nor to any of his^brothers, if he has any ; on the contrary she shuns them in the most careful manner. If the future son-in- law, or either of his brothers, should visit the tribe, she is always previously informed of his coming, so that she may have time to get out of the way ; and if by chance she meets them, she covers her head over with her skin cloak. If any present is sent to her, such as opossum or kangaroo, and such like food, the receivers rub their faces and hands over with charcoal before it is taken and tasted. When again, a present of a skin cloak is made by the intended son-in-law, the mother gives it to her husband to wear for some time before it is favoured with her acceptance. Thk practice is ad- hered to on both sides, for the son-in-law may see his 90 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. proposed father, but will not on any account see the mother; their notions on these matters being, that when their children are married the parents become much older, and if the girl's mother happens to see the proposed husband it will cause her hair to turn grey im- mediately. To return to my narrative. We remained for a very long time at this place, and were ultimately joined by two tribes, one being called the Putnaroo, the other the Warwaroo, who usually inhabited the opposite side of the bay, a long way off, and on this occasion had left their women and children behind them. Having erected their bark huts near ours, they remained peace- able enough for several days, hunting and enjoying themselves; at length, the Putnaroos suddenly sur- rounded our people, and without any previous alterca- tion speared a young man about twenty years of age. The cause stated to be was, that the murdered man had been promised a girl who his assailant wanted for himself. Poor fellow, when he was speared, he ran only a very few paces, and then dropped down dead. Our tribe expostulated with the others against this assault, but were answered by the threat, that if they said much about it they would serve us in a similar manner; so we, being by far the weaker party, were obliged to appear to be satisfied. This affair broke up our encampment, and I was sent to inform the friends of the deceased of what had hap- pened, and also to watch the movements of the Putna- roos. Having found all this out, namely, where the LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 91 enemy were, and the young man's parents, I made the latter acquainted with the circumstances connected with his death ; telling them at the same time, that his remains had been deposited in the branch of a tree; which news gladdened them much, for in the first place they imagined the savages had taken his body away. When they had consoled themselves a little, the father summoned all the tribe and other friends he could muster; they came in considerable force, and having pipe-clayed and ochered themselves all over, they set off, prepared for battle. This however was evaded, as the Putnaroo invaders had taken to their heels, on seeing the great numbers to which they were opposed. We now took up our quarters at a place they called Nullemungobeed, situated in the centre of a very exten- sive plain, with wells of good water handy. When we had settled ourselves down there, some of the men went to the spot where we had left the young man's remains hanging in the tree, and brought away the lower part of the body, leaving the upper quarters and head where they found it suspended. The usual uproar commenced amongst the women on the arrival of the part of the corpse, lamentation succeeding lamentation, burning with fire- sticks, and all the rest of it, until at length the mangled % remains were roasted between heated stones, shared out, and greedily devoured by these savages. Again I was pressed to join in this horrid repast; but I hope T need not say, that I refused, with indignation and disgust. Strange as all these cannibal ceremonies may appear, 92 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. it is proper to explain, that many are performed out of what they consider respect for the deceased ; the cap bones of whose knees, in this instance, after being carefully cleaned, were tied up in a sort of net of hair and twisted bark. Under such circumstances, these relics are carried by the mothers, tied round their necks by day, and placed under their heads by night, as affectionate remembrancers of the dead. Being again thoroughly disgusted with these inhu- man scenes, I went away alone, back to my old hut at the Karaaf River, where I fished as before by means of my wear, and lived, for many months, daily expecting a visit from some of the tribes ; but, by their absence, they all appeared to have deserted me. One day, how- ever, a friendly party visited my solitary abode, and settled themselves down. In tins way we all lived on for several months more, having plenty of fish and roots. And now, reader, I come to a very important period of my life, which was a decision arrived at by my friends that I should take unto myself a wife. I Was not in any way consulted, being considered a sort of instrument in their hands to do with as they might think proper.— My wife was a young widow, about twenty years of age, tolerably good-looking, after a fashion, and ap- parently very mild tempered. The marriage feast, the ring, the fees for the ceremony, the bride's dress, my own, and all the rest of it, did not cost much. I was not obliged to run in debt, or fork out every shilling, or pay fifty per cent, for discounting a bill to pay the piper— nothing of the kind; so I took her to myself to LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 93 my turf and bark hunting and fishing hut, on the baaks of the Karaaf River. — I should here mention, that although previously married, my wife did not present me, on the day of our union, with any tender little re- membrances of her first bu&banti, my predecessor in her affections. Affections!— we shall see more about that presently ; but, perhaps I may as well say at once, that my dearly beloved played me most abomi- nably false, for at the end of our honeymoon, (perhaps it might have been a few months after that moon had gone down*) one evening when we were alone in our hut, enjoying our domestic felicity, several men came in, and took her away from me by force ; she, ^however, going very willingly. The next day— as I had no Su- preme Court to go to for damages— I went over to the tribe * the intruders belonged to, and told them how I had been treated. I confess I did not make a very great fuss about my loss— if it was one — but endea- voured to whistle it down the wind gaily. Several of the friendly natives were anxious I should take the usual revenge upon her and the man she had left me to live with, but I refused, and in the end, she was speared by another man, with whom she had been co* queting, and to whom she bad also played falsely. Mixed up by relationship, as all these parties were, after a great number of altercations about her having run away from me, and the circumstances of her death, there was another fight, in which many heads were broken. I, however, took no part in these, excepting assuming the defensive, and threatening them with punishment if 94 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. they interfered with « me, being now, and having been for a long time past, quite as expert as any of them with the spear, and boomerang. After a great deal of talk and noise, all became reconciled, and there was another Corrobberree on a large scale. A little before this affair, I had taken charge of a little blind boy, and a girl, children of my supposed brother-in-law, who were very much attached to me, and went with me in my hunting and fishing excursions. I should here observe, that the natives sometimes, and when the wind is favourable, hunt round a kind of circle, into which they force every kind of animal and reptile to be found ; they then fire the boundary, and so kill them for food ; it matters not what they are, whether kangaroo, wombats, opossum, or black snakes ; they are to them, with the exception of the last named, all alike; as are also lizards, toads, rats, mice, and wild dogs; they cook and eat them all. On one of these burning excursions, I remember a monster snake was killed, having two distinct heads, separating about two inches from the body, black on the back, with a brownish yellow belly, and red spots all over. It had been about nine feet long, but the fire had burnt the body in two, and being such an unnatural looking . monster, the natives were terribly frightened at its appearance. Of the poisonous snakes generally, they are not the least afraid, for they eat them, after cutting off the heads, and roasting them in the usual manner. With my adopted children, and two families only, I now went to a place they called Bearrock, where there LIFE OP BUCKLEY. m 95 was a chain of water holes, fall of excellent eels, and roots, on which we subsisted for a long time. One night one of the women — just as we were laying down to sleep— heard a rustling in the bushes, as if people were approaching. Her, and her husband, came imme- diately, saying we must all run for our lives, and thus dreadfully alarming the little girl, and her blind brother for they had all been present at the murder of their father. After a minute's thought, we all resolved to be off, in order to conceal ourselves. Being quite at a loss what to do, we remained silent, if possible to ascertain from whence the noise proceeded, and who the strangers were. After a time, our two men, who had gone out to reconnoitre, came back, saying they had seen a fire, with several men standing round about it, which very much increased the alarm, and particularly of my poor little boy and girl. For their protection and support, I put some fire into one of our native buckets, covering ' it over with turf, and then moved off to a more concealed place, the natives called Banor, on the top of a small hill in the shape of a sugar-loaf, and close to the sea side, from whence, at day -light, I knew I should be able to see all around me to a great distance. In the morning, on looking anxiously around, I ob- served, about a mile off, some people coming in my direction, and in consequence of their approach, J con- cealed myself, with my charge. However, I soon saw they were our friends, who we had left the night before. We then held a consultation as to the direction we should take for their safety, and differing in opinion, 96 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. we separated, they going one way inland, and I, with my charge, another; mine being toward a place they called Kfrkedullim, near the sea side. So we kept wandering along for several days, until we made a lengthy halt at Mangowak where we lived on shell fish, and a sort of wild grape which grows in great abundance thereabout. It being the height of summer, we did not suffer much privation; for, as far as. I was concerned, I had now been many years accustomed to all the habits of my extraordinary life. Moving on again, we at length arrived at the Karaaf River, my favourite spot, where I found the hut just as I had left it months before. I know not the cause, but the natives had not visited it, or if they had, they had not in any way interfered with the arrangements I had made for my comfort. Here I again made fast my wear; and although for several days and nights we were very unsuccessful, in consequence of the tide and weather being unfavourable, ultimately a great lot of fish was taken, and we lived in abundance on bream, and roots. I had now become very anxious for the safety of my charge, particularly on account of the poor blind boy, who could in no way assist himself by get* ting out of danger, should any savage tribe attack us in the night, as I have already described is often their •ustom. I was at length relieved in part from this responsibility by the arrival of a man, with his wife and family, who I knew to be friendly to us, and who settled himself down close to our locality. LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 97 CHAPTER VII, MURDER OF THE BLIND BOY. — ABANDON THE NATIVES,—* A NATIVE WOMAN MY ONLY COMPANION FOR MANY MONTHS. — THE NATIVE LANGUAGE.— CANNIBAL TRIBE, — VESSEL SEEN.— CONSEQUENCES. — THE WHITE MAH's GRAVE. — DREADFUL MASSACRE. — WRECK OF A SHIP. — . THE BUNYIP AGAIN, -" I awoke To hear the Oceans never varied sound, And the wild sea-mew, wheeling round and round, Where hope, the sun light of the soul, ne'er beams ; A broken-hearted Exile, e'en in dreams." Our small community remained in perfect harmony for many months, until, unfortunately, a young man about twenty years of age, belonging to another tribe, arrived. This youth was taken seriously ill a few days after joining us, and although we did all we could for him he died. This event created great distress, and by way of changing the scene, our small party broke up, and left the Karaaf on a short hunting excursion. After a time we fell in with the deceased young man's family, who, on being informed of his death, expressed 98 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. great astonishment and rage, fancying it had been brought about by some unfair means on our part. This excitement arose to such a height, as to approach — what it would be mercy to describe — insanity. After a time, they forced the poor blind boy away from me, and killed him on the spot, because he had happened to be in the same hut in which the young man died, be- lieving he had been in some way the means of his death. After this, they roasted the body in the usual manner ; but whilst this was going on I left, with the little girl, moving on, and on, until meeting the tribe to which the man belonged to whom in her infancy she had been promised; I explained all the parti- culars of the sacrifice of her poor blind brother. They immediately vowed vengeance, and two or three of them set out for the purpose of murder, returning in a few days with the intelligence that they had killed two of the children of their enemies. By one accession and the other our numbers had now increased to more than two hundred men, women, and children; and it may be easily supposed, that such a mob- of savages could not move on long without fights and bloodshed. Seeing these things certain, I left, with the proposed husband of the little girl, and one or two families, to go back again to the Karaaf River. Having remained there some time, I resolved on surrendering my charge to her intended husband, and the wife he had had with him for many months ; and positively insisted on doing so, although they were anxious that she should remain with me for some time longer. LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 99 Having transferred her to the care of these people, I set off alone, determined to live by myself in order to avoid a repetition of the scenes I had witnessed, and all farther intercourse with the natives. The direction I took was along the sea coast, but although subsisting upon shell fish principally, I now knew perfectly well how to provide myself with a change of food, and with fire to cook it, so as to make whatever it was more palatable. Although I had parted with the girl from prudential motives, I lamented very bitterly the savage death of her brother, my poor blind boy, for whom I had acquired a great affection; and who, on his part, had so many hundred times clung to me for shelter and protection. I was now again very lonely and miserable, and whilst indulging in melancholy thoughts one day — such as cannot be^Lbed-I was most unexpectedly joined by a young native woman, who had ran away from her tribe at some distance, where it was fighting with another. She remained with me for a long time, during which I was successful in procuring abundance of food ; amongst other kinds was a large sea animal, one of that sort which the natives call the Koorman, mentioned before as having visited my retreat near where I first met the natives'. We found the flesh very good eating, and my female friend enjoyed the repast with great gusto : greasing herself all over with the fat, after we had made the most of the carcass, which might well be compared to bacon. My amiable young lady friend continued with me H 2 .-V 100 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. for a long time, in fact she made all sorts of excuses for not going back to her tribe, who not coming in search of her, and we not knowing of their where- abouts, were induced at length to remove for a change of hunting and fishing grounds; arriving ultimately at Danawa, where there is a considerable river, having its source in several high mountains, some way off in the interior. The scrub through which we should have had to pass, had we left the beach, being almost impassable, we were obliged to keep along the sea shore; and the weather by this time being cold and inclement, we oc- casionally took shelter, and slept in the caves and cre- vices of the rocks. This was a very suffering time, and as soon as we could, we returned again to my old fishing castle, on the Karaaf. The reader may wonder, how it was possible for any one like myself, who had, in my earlier life, been asso- ciated with civilized beings, so to live; but I beg him « to remember how many years I had led a different sort of existence, and how easy it is for the human being, as well as every other, to change his habits, taste, and I may add, feelings, when made the mere creature of circumstances. I look back now to that period of my life with inexpressible astonishment; considering it, as it were, altogether a dreaming delusion, and not reality. Perhaps there is no one living who can cast his mind back to so many years of his past life with such a mul- tiplicity of extraordinary sensations, as have fallen to my lot to experience. After many months we were visited by my com- LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 101 panion's relatives, to whom she returned, and I was left once more alone, occasionally however visiting such of the friendly tribes as came to my locality. All the years I had been upon the coast, and near it, I had never seen or heard of any ship, or of shipwrecked mariners, so that I had no hope afforded now of ever again regaining an association with civilized beings. I had seen a race of children grow up into women and men, and many of the old people die away, and by my harmless and peaceable manner amongst them, had acquired great influence in settling their disputes. Num- bers of murderous fights I had prevented by my inter- ference, which was received by them as well meant ; so much so, that they would often allow me to go amongst them previous to a battle, and take away their spears, and waddies, and boomerangs. My visits were always welcomed, and they kindly and often supplied me with a portion of the provisions they had — assuring me, in their language, of the interest they took in my welfare. Here I may as well say, that the native language varies according to the tribe individuals belong to, each tribe having a peculiar expression of their own. The one I was with so many years, I, of course, under- stood perfectly, but there were others I could scarcely make out. I saw a native from the Murray River whose language was perfectly unintelligible to all of us ; indeed this is reasonable, when we reflect on the difference of the dialect, or pronunciation of words, of many of the counties of England, Ireland, and Scotland. 102 LITE OP BUCKLEY. How careful then ought those persons to be, who are now known as what are called Protectors of Aborigines, when they attempt to interpret on trials in Courts of Justice. Their translations and explanations should be received with great care, in order to prevent the infliction of unjust punishments — especially in cases of life and death. Again, there is another point to be borne in mind, that is, the vindictive character of the natives, which leads them, in many instances, to give evidence founded upon revenge and falsehood. This is ail very bad, but that it is true cannot be doubted. I had almost forgotten to say, that in my wanderings about, I met with the Pallidurgbarrans, a tribe notori- ous for their cannibal practices; not only eating human flesh greedily after a fight, but on all occasions when it was possible. They appeared to be the nearest approach to the brute creation of any I had ever seen or heard of; and, in consequence, they were very much dreaded. Their colour was light copper, their bodies having tre- mendously large and protrubing bellies. Huts, or arti- ficial places for shelter, were unknown to them, it being their custom to lay about in the scrub, anyhow and any- where. The women appeared to be most unnaturally ferocious— children being their most valued sacrifice. Their brutality at length became so harrassing, and their assaults so frequent, that it was resolved to set fire to the bush where they had sheltered themselves, and so annihilate them, one and all, by suffocation. This, in part, succeeded, for I saw no more of them in my time. The belief is, that the last of the race was LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 103 turned into a stone, or rock, at a place where a figure was found resembling a man, and exceedingly weU exe- cuted; probably the figure-head of some unfortunate ship. One day when I was at Bangibarra, some distance in the interior, I saw some natives coming along, one of them carrying a flag over his shoulders. On anxious enquiry, I was told by them that they had seen a vessel laying at anchor in Port Phillip Bay, and near Indented Heads ; watching her for several days, they observed her remove to another anchorage, soon after which, a boat was hoisted out and all hands left her, proceeding up the river. After watching several hours to see the coast clear, three of them swam alongside, and hoisted themselves on board, one, one way, and another, another. The first object that attracted their attention was the colours; these they soon hauled down : then they pur- loined rope, sails, and other things they thought would prove serviceable — such as glass bottles to bark and sharpen their spears with. There were many other arti- cles they took, but fortunately they were afraid to go down into the cabin, and so considerable property was saved from plunder. Having completed their marauding excursion, they carried what they had to land, and far back into the bush. When the crew returned and saw the mischief done during their absence, they fired off their pieces, but t&ey were at too great a distance to dp any injury to the natives. Thinking it advisable, they soon got the anchor up again, moving farther out into the bay. 104 Life of Buckley* This was the story they related, and great anxiety was expressed that I should lend a hand to decoy the people on shore, so as to get them into our power, with the vessel, boats, and cargo also. I did all possible to divert their attention, telling them that if they went to where the ship was, they would again be fired upon, and all killed. A few days after I saw the vessel still laying at anchor, and became almost nervously wild with desire to make myself known to those on board, so as at length to be released from captivity, and with that hope I went alone, taking with me merely my spears and other instruments for hunting and fishing. When I got to the beach abreast of the vessel, I made a large fire, thinking I should attract their attention, as several persons could be seen walking up and down the deck, occasionally looking attentively toward me, as I thought. All my efforts however were useless — the crew no doubt supposing, after the robbery on board by the natives, that the object was to entice them on shore for some murderous or mischievous purpose. I could not hail them, having lost all my English language. All that day and night I continued making signals— my heart ready to break with grief and anxiety, seeing all my efforts futile. About the middle of the next day, a boat put off from the side, coming in my direction; and, when distant only half a mile, my signals were repeated ; but alas, when only three hundred ygrds off, the people in her, hoisted sail, steering away two or three miles farther up the beach, toward a small island, where they Janded. Seeing this to be a chance opening up for me, LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 105 I followed as Deist as I could run, and crossed over to where I supposed they were cutting wood. However, the breeze being in their favour, before I could reach tfag spot, they had cut as much as they wanted, put it into the boat, and shoved ofl^ only laughing at my violent gesticulations and unintelligible cries ; little thinking who I was, or that I was any other than I appeared to be in my native dress. Forgetting all this, I re- proached them to myself very bitterly, thinking them worse than savages, thus to leave me in my misery. Instead of their having been guilty of inhumanity, I should have remembered the possibility and probability of their firing upon me — and particularly after the act of robbery before mentioned. After consoling myself somewhat, I examined the spot where they had been, thinking to find— perhaps a hatchet, or some such like tool, which would prove useful. In looking about, I saw a mound of earth about the size of a grave; but I foolishly thought it might be a place of concealment for some kind of treasure; and, although money, or plate, or jewels, could not have been of the least use to me in my disconsolate condition, yet I determined to examine the mound; and began to do so, by taking off the turfs with which it was covered. Having worked some time, I was shocked at coming to the body of a white man, wrapped up in a blanket. It occurred to me to remove this covering, as the weather was very cold; and it seemed a pity to leave bo good an article where it was, but I could not find it in my heart to rob the dead — even to supply my own 106 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. pressing necessities; I therefore made the grave up again, covering it carefully over with boughs, and heavy stones, so to protect the body from the wild dogs. Finding all my efforts to communicate with the ship useless, and after passing another night in great distress, I made my way back to the tribe. The vessel remained *here she was for several days longer — a period to me of indescribable misery. What the ship was, or where she-was bound to, or where from, I was never able to make out, in consequence of my ignorance of dates. During the period we were watching her, the natives told me another vessel had anchored nearly in the same pUce, a long tixue previous; ftom whil vessel, two white men were brought ashore by four or five others, who tied them to trees, and shot them,—- leaving their bodies bound. A few months after these efforts of mine to communi- cate with the ship, I found a large boat stranded on the beach. It appeared to have belonged to a whaler, as there were eight large oars laying about her, partly buried in the sand; there were also three blankets rigged as a sail, with ropes, mast, and other articles, used by some unfortunate mariners who had been cast away. The blankets, after being washed, I spread over the boat to dry, and when that was done, a fire was visible at some distance, to which I went, and there found a party of natives cooking and eating fish, and other food. On seeing the blankets, they began caper- ing about in their usual fantastic manner, expressing the most extravagant joy. Acting on prudential mo* LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 107 tives, and in order to preserve harmony, I cut the blankets up into several pieces, dividing them as I best could. This done, we returned to the wrecked boat, which they had evidently seen or known about before; indeed they soon told me, that a few days previous, two white men had wandered from the beach into the busk where these natives were, who received them kindly* The poor fellows were dreadfully bruised and cold— nfe fact, perishing from exposure, thirst, and hunger. They pointed in the direction where I had found the boat, act if trying to make the tribe understand that some adoM dent had happened, looking at the same time very sad] and disconsolate. Being well fed on fish and kangaroo, after some days they recovered their strength; the* natives then tried to make them understand there wase- white man — meaning myself — amongst them, and that they would go in search of me; but the poor fellows could not be made to comprehend their meaning,. andd went away by themselves toward the Yawang Plains. ^ There is no doubt but they were part of the people - cast ashore in the boat. Some months after I heard ^ that the same two men, who had been so kindly treated, . were savagely murdered, whilst crossing the Yarra* River, by a tribe called the Wairwaioo. I grieved very much at this melancholy event, for had I arrived in time no doubt their lives would have been prqsemd; - and on the circumstance I reflected very seriously,' cub* ' pressing my heartfelt thanks to the great Creator ^ my ■ being, for having brought me unharmed throughj bo ^ many dangers. 108 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. Several months after, when journeying alone along' the beach, I found a large cask, a barrel or hogshead, partly buried in the sand, which, no doubt, had been * thrown on shore from a wrecked ship. It was much too heavy for me to lift, or move in any way; so I set to work digging round about it, until I could get at the iron hoops, which I knew were valuable to the natives. At length I knocked the head in, but could not fancy what the liquid contents were, having lived so long in the bush without tasting any other drink than water. The flavour appeared to be horribly offensive, and the smell equally so. It must have been either beer or wine, not being strong enough for spirits. However, I determined on letting the whole contents go by the run, to prevent mischief — should the natives take a fancy to it — although so utterly nauseous to my palate. Having broken up the iron hoops into pieces, I some days after divided them amongst those who were most kind to me, and by these presents added greatly to the influence I had already acquired over them. Whether being so long with them was the occasion or not, but I began to fancy they were gradually becoming more docile and civilized. The various families returned to their several camping places— except one old man, his wife, and children, who remained ; and we proceeded together to a lake called Jerringot— one of a chain of that name — which supplies the Barwin River. Here the Bunyip— the extraordi- nary animal I have already mentioned — were often seen by the natives, who had a great dread of them, believ- LIFE OP BUCKLEY. 109 ing them to have some supernatural power over human beings, so as to occasion death, sickness, disease, and such like misfortunes. They have also a superstitious notion, that the great abundance of eels in some of the lagoons where these animals resort, are ordered for the Bunyip's provision ; and they therefore seldom remain long in such neighbourhoods, after having seen the creature. They told me a story of a woman having been killed by one of them, stating that it happened in this way. A particular family one day was surprised at the great quantity of eels they caught; for as fast as the husband could carry them back to their hut, the woman pulled them out of the lagoon. This, they said, was a cunning manoeuvre of a Bunyip, to lull her into security — so that in her husband's absence he might seize her for food. However this was, after the husband had stayed away some time, he returned, but his wife was gone, and she was never seen after. So great is the dread the natives have of these creatures, that on discovering one, they throw themselves flat on their faces, mutter- ing some gibberish, or flee away from the borders of the lake or river, as if pursued by a wild beast. When alone, I several times attempted to spear a Bunyip; but, had the natives seen me do so, it would have caused great displeasure. And again, if I had succeeded in killing, or even wounding one, my own life would probably have paid the forfeit — they con- sidering the animal, as I have already said, something supernatural. 1,10^ LIFE OF BUCKLEY. CHAPTER VIII. NEWS OF ANOTHER SHIP. — LANDING OF SETTLERS. — MY REFLECTIONS. — LIBERTY OR CAPTIVITY? THAT'S THE QUESTION. — VISIT THE NEW COMERS. — RECEIVED KIND- LY BY THEM. — MESSRS. WEDGE AND BATMAN. — HOPES FOR THE FUTURE. — EXPLORING EXPEDITION. — BUCK- LEY'S FALLS.— RECEIVE A FREE PARDON. 44 Sleep, to the homeless, thou art home. The friendless find in thee ft Mend ; And well is he, where'er he roam, Who meets thee at his journey's end." One day when the old man just mentioned as having- remained with us, was out with me gathering roots, we discovered two young natives coming through the marshes, and in our direction : each having a coloured cotton handkerchief fastened to the end of his spear. These they held up as high as they could, waving them about to and fro, for me to see — knowing me to be in that neighbourhood. It was evident they had met with civilized people; and, on coming up, it was explained that they had met with three white! and six black men, LIFE OF BUCKLEY. Ill they had never seen before. I enquired if the strangers had any boat? and was told they had a Koerong, meaning a ship, but that she was gone, leaving the men behind;— that they had erected two white houses, which I supposed to be tents; — that they had plenty of provisions, blankets, tomahawks, and such articles; — that they had asked for some of the Eallallingurks (tomahawks), but were refused; although presents were made to the tribe near Indented Heads, of knives, and scissors, and other things. The next piece of intelligence was very alarming, — the men saying they were in search of another tribe, to enable those they had left behind to murder the white people the more easily, and by doing so to get posses- sion of their property. That night was one of great anxiety to me, for I knew not how, without danger, to apprise the strangers of their perilous situation — as the least appearance of such an intention would, to the natives, have seemed like treachery. My reflections were very painful, for I was, of course, aware of having long since forgotten the language of my youth. I was at a loss what to do for the best, but at length determined on hazarding my life by going to them at the earliest opportunity, for their protection. So when the two men who brought the intelligence had left us to go in search of the other tribe, I hastened off on my journey to where the strangers were— which, as the natives had described, was about fifteen miles distant; but it must have been much more, for I did not reach it until the next day ; ,11% tawTOF BUCRtEY. the w*athe£ beiag cold and very tempestuous. At length iMtfiSv** iM%at of a long pole, or staff, with the Brilfcfa -colours hoisted upon it; and there I also saw a- sort of , t Hope on ! — Live on ! — Hope to the last. w , Though cowards shrink before the blast, The man whose heart is firmly cast Hopes on. Hope on ! — 'Tis, often in the darkest night, When all is lost to human sight, , . , , There comes the brightest flash of light. Hope on Hope on ! — In deepest pain or misery, — . However great thine agony,— Whate'er may be thy destiny,— Hope oli. Live on ! — Though unequal be the fight, See,— Hope hoists high her signal light, For "ever cheering— ever bright Hope on. Hope on ! — Live on ! — Hope to the last. Though cowards shrink before the blast, The man whose heart is firmly cast, Hopes on— Lives on. t i j i . < • 122 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. CHAPTER IX. CHANGE OF SETTLEMENT. — VISIT FROM THE PUTNAROOS AND WAINWORRAS. — MR. GELLIBRAND.- — ENGAGE AS INTERPRETER. — ANOTHER ARRIVAL. FIRST HOUSE BUILT. COLONISING EXCITEMENT. DISPUTES BE- TWEEN THE SETTLERS AND NATIVES. — TWO SETTLERS KILLED. " For 'tis a goodly sight to see What Heaven has done for this delicious land ; What fruits of fragrance blush on evary tree, What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand." By the same vessel which brought my pardon, there arrived also instructions from the Directors of the Com- pany forming the settlement, for us to break up our present encampment, and take up our station on the right bank of the Yarra from its source, at a spot they had fixed upon as the site of a town ; little thinking, however, it was, in so brief a space of time, to become .the capital of a mighty colony, replete in itself with all that is required to found a nation of pre-eminent importance. LIFE OF BUCKLEY. 1&3 Ih consequence of these orders, every one was busily ^employed for two days packing up and preparing for the remove to Melbourne; then only known as a town by its marked trees, and other simple signs of such like early progress. Having put all our baggage on board, I explained to the natives where we were going to, and having so done I once more trod the deck of a ship, with feelings impossible to be explained. My sable friends were not at all pleased at our leaving, thinking we might be going away altogether; and their thoughts still being upon plunder, they did not by any means like the idea of its probable escape. In the trip up we were unfortunate, for the wind was contrary; so we had to beat about the bay two days, but in the end reached our destination, and immediately commenced unlading the cargo— the mechanics com- mencing temporary workshops and dwelling-houses for the people. Whilst thus occupied, we were visited by two of the tribes I have already mentioned, the Putnaroo and the Wainworras — the savages who murdered the two ship- wrecked mariners when crossing the Yarra River. They mustered about two hundred strong, men, women, and children. I had great difficulty in keeping these people from exercising their thievish inclinations, thereby bringing on difficulties between the settlers and the blacks; and I had enough to do, so as to keep myself from the suspicion of intending wrong either to one or the other party. During all the time we were landing the cargo and storing it, sentries were mounted day and 124 LIFE OF BUCKLET. night, to prevent pilfering and disputes; but other tribes continuing to arrive, increasing their strength, it occasioned me great anxiety; because I knew, as the last arrivals had left their families behind, they qame with warlike intentions, and with hopes of plunder, in case an opportunity offered. This devilry was, however, neutralized by the gentlemen in charge of the settle- ment making them more presents of blankets, broad, knives, scissors, and £uch like useful articles; with which the tribes separated, apparently satisfied with the generosity shown them, and with the promises made of further supplies on the arrival of the next ship from Van Diemen's Land. That vessel brought several gentlemen, amongst whom was Mr. Gellibrand, and they engaged me as their Interpreter, at a salary pf fifty pounds a year, with rations. Soon after this, we started on an ex- ploring expedition, looking for land; and were out about six days, traversing in the meantime, all the country round, visiting Buckley's Falls, the Yawang Hills, and other localities already mentioned; during which journey we fell in with a man, hi? wife, and children, with whom I had been many months, who all lamented bitterly my haying left them; but the present of a blanket happily soothed their affliction. On our return to Melbourne we found another vessel had arrived, bringing 9 cargo of potatoes and other food, and articles suited to the general wants ani the horses. kl2 132 MFB OF BUCKLEY. When Mr. Gellibrand, junior, joined me at the place appointed, we all proceeded to Captain Pollack's station from whence, after necessary refreshment, the latter gentleman accompanied us on our search, following the course the guide said the lost travellers had taken, to the spot where they had left him. We traced the spoor of the horses, as the Cape men say, much farther on, into an extensive plain recently burnt, and here we lost it altogether. We now struck across the country, still hoping to gather some intelligence; and falling in with a native encampment, and having reason to think it was not a tribe likely to receive the white men in a friendly manner* I requested them to remain where they were, whilst I endeavoured to obtain some infor- mation. This bepig acceded, I approached, but being on horseback, and in an unknown dress they, at first, did not know me, but ran away in great alarm, having never seen 4 horse before. After a time, however, I made them understand who I was, and dismounting, they aU came round me in a friendly manner. Just when I was explaining the object of my visit, our white party rode up, and one of them began asking questions in a jargon of language no one could under- stand; and by this interference prevented my doing any service, for I had scarcely had time to express even a hope that they would go in search and do their best to bring the lost gentlemen to the settlement. The abrupt appearance of our people on horseback, so much alarmed the natives, that I could do nothing, except accompany them alone to their camp as they LffiB 0* BtJCKLEf . IS* Wished, but this my companions would not Allow me, ft* their guide, to do, hot feeling safe in my absence. Our ettbri* to traee the lost travellers were all in Tain, and at length I returned to Melbourne to report our ineffectual efforts for their rescue. Whilst We were absent on the expedition, Governor Bourke had returned to Sydney, and the news of the loss of Meters. Gelli- brand and Hesse having been forwarded to Hobart Town, three c£ their friends arrived with the deter- mination, if possible, to trace their fate. I was applied to for information, and to accompany diem; the former I gave them, but I refused the latter proposal, because I was certain I could do much better if I went by my- self on such a mission. 'They appeared very much dis- pleased at my objections, and I was summoned before the Commandant to give my reasons; to whom I said, those who were with me before had most improperly interfered, endangering my life and their own, by not having placed confidence in me and allowed me to do with, and say to the natives, what I thought best on the matter. The Commandant agreed with me, but the persons who had taken Hie affair in hand decided on having their own way; and they accordingly engaged several blacks to go with them, who* strange to say, they furnished with fire arms. Three days after they had left the place, I had per- mission from Captain Lonsdale to proceed alone on my search; but my horse having a sore back, I was obliged to remain a short time until it could bear the saddle- In the meantime he was tethered in the rear of my 134 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. quarters, where the animal was very happy during lii«r temporary rest; until one day a native came running to me in great sorrow, saying he was bleeding very much and nearly dead. Mr. Batman happening to be near, we went away together to where the horse was, and found he had been, what is called, ham-strung; all the hind sinews of his legs having been cut through by some white, or other savage. My poor horse died, and I took passage by a vessel to Geelong, in order there to provide myself with another, and thence pursue my search, although I had long since concluded upon its being useless, after the absurd efforts which had been made by those who, no doubt, most anxiously desired to recover the lost gen- tlemen, but knew nothing about how successfully to accomplish so difficult an undertaking in such a country and under such circumstances. Mr. Gellibrand, junior, did all he could ; and as a son, was naturally excited and influenced by all proper feelings of regret, anxiety, and perseverance; but what could he do, overruled as he was by others, who had done more harm than good in the search, as I have already shown, by their im- proper interference with me, who might have led to the discovery of the lost travellers, either dead or alive. Having obtained permission, I at length set off alone, and at Mr. Reibey's station received intelligence that a native and his daughter had been shot by the natives who had accompanied the three gentlemen that pre- ceded me from Melbourne by land, and who, being much alarmed at the circumstance just recorded, had UFB OF BUCKLEY. 185 returned to that place. Knowing it would be useless for me to attempt any discovery after this event, I went on board again, and returned to Melbourne also. It was* an inexcusable murder, for there was not the least reason to believe that the poor people who had been so mercilessly sacrificed, had had anything to do with the death of either Mr. Gellibrand or Mr. Hesse, neither was it known at that time whether they were dead or alive. This affair gave me great pain, because, from my long association with the natives, I thought such destruction of life anything but creditable to my coun- trymen; but on the contrary, that they were atrocious acts of oppression. From that time all search after the unfortunate gen- tlemen ceased, but enquiries were still continued, un- fortunately without effect. In Mr. Gellibrand, I lost a very good and kind friend ; his humane considerations for me will never be forgotten; and amongst other evidenoes of this feeling, he had given me the horse which, as I have just said, was so brutally mutilated. About this time, an absconder from Van Diemen's Land was apprehended, and ordered by the Magistrates to be returned to Launceston; and I asked permission to take charge of him to that colony, which request was acceded to, as I was a Constable. Having delivered the prisoner to the Gaoler at Launceston, I went into the country for a few days to visit an old shipmate, - whose name it is not necessary to mention, and then returned for a passage back again, according to the, orders I had received. 13$ L^ O* BUCKLBT. At this tilde a steam vessel arrived al LaunceBtou with seme prisoners bound to Port Phillip, and in her wins Captain Fyana, who had been appointed Resident Magistrate at Geelong. I returned to the new colony i in that teasel, having received great kindness at Laun- cestbn from Mr. Samms, the Under Sheriff and others, who gave me flour, and other thing*, as presents for myself, and to be given to the natives. On my arrival at Melbourne, I was directed to ac- company Captain Fyans to Geeloftg, he having a number of other persons with him. On crossing the Yawahg Plains it came on to rein very heavily, and having been much occupied and exhausted before t left Melbourne, by toy explanations to the friendly tribes of natives, and by my long march, I was compelled to Vest by the way,— the party proceeded on without me. I hesitated for some time whether I wouM follow the Captain in the morning, but at length determined to do so, and proceeded to Mr. Fisher's station, who oh all occasions treated me, as had Messrs. Simpson and Wedge, with the greatest kindness and consideration; so much jw>, that I shall, through life, always be pleased to acknowledge the obligations I am under to them and others. Hating gone on to Geelong and remained there se- veral days, I obtained permission to return to Mel- bourne by water; tad, soon after my arrival, was sent in search of sheep, said to have been driven away by native*. In this way I was employed for several weeks, but finding that some- persona were always LIM8 OF BUCKLEY. 137 throwing difficulties in the way of my interests, and not knowing what might be the result, I determined on resigning office, and on leaving a colony where my services were so little known, and so badly appreciate^ by the principal authorities. It was not without great regret, that I resolved on leaving the colony, because I had believed my know- ledge of the language and habits of the natives, ac- quired during my sojourning amongst them, might have led to my being employed by the local authorities during the rest of my life; but, when I reflected on the suspicion with which I was viewed by the most influen- tial white men, and on the probable doubt the natives would entertain in my sincerity after having left the*}, I thought it best to retire to Van Diemen'a Land. In- deed, I conld not calculate on one hour's personal safety from either one party or the other, under such circum- stances, for if lives had been lost, or cattle stolen, in any locality where I happened to be stationed, prejudice or vindictive feelings might have been brought into play, and I should have been sacrificed. In proof of this, and of the reckless way in which conclusions were sometimes arrived at in serious matters, I will here relate, in as few words as possible, what hap- pened to one of the natives, who, poor fellow, had a very narrow escape from death, in consequence of false information; such as I might have been subjected to at any time, had I remained in & colony where no confi- dence was placed in me, merely because I possessed more influence with .the natives iha& <)*tera> , { *u> •< 138 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. CHAPTER XL CHARGE AGAINST A NATIVE. — HOW SUSTAINED. — THE CLIMATE. SAIL FOR HOBART TOWN. HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. — NARROW ESCAPE FROM BECOMING A PUB- LIC PERFORMER.— GOVERNMENT HOUSE. — AGAIN ENTER THE PUBLIC SERVICE. — MY MARRIAGE. — DISCHARGE AND PENSION. — NARRATIVE DRAWS TO A CLOSE. My march of life is nearly ended; Bugler,— sound the " Halt !" I have already related some of the circumstances con- nected with the loss of Messrs. Gellibrand and Hesse. Soon after the search for them had been given up, a vessel arrived at Geelong from Van Diemen's Land with goods and passengers; amongst them was a car- penter, who had with him a tool-chest and other bag- gage to carry up from the beach. By that time the natives had acquired the industrious habit of working in this way, many of them being very useful and civil, after their fashion; in fact, all those who know LIFE OF BUCKLEY, 139 anything of their habits, are aware how docile those of the poor creatures are, who are well inclined, and how anxious they are to please those who employ and treat them kindly. One of this description was engaged by the carpenter to carry his traps up from the ship, and as a reward, and for the sake of decency, he was clothed in a much worn coat and trowsers; in which, having done all that was required of him, he set off to astonish his tribe by his very smart and altered appearance. He left in great glee, little thinking of what was to follow. Some days after, another vessel arrived from Van Diemen's Land, and he, with others, went to her, look- ing for a job. The master of this craft seeing a native in such a dress, began to examine him after the fashion peculiar to self-constituted and many other kinds of Justices, who found their views and decisions only upon one order of thinking; namely, the infallibility of their own opinions— not in the least valuing those of others. This wise sailor judge swore he knew the coat the man had on to have been the property of Mr. Hesse ; that, in fact, it was the one he wore when he left Hobart Town; — that he could trace spots of blood upon it ; and, on this evidence the native was seized, hand- cuffed, and forwarded to Melbourne on a charge of murder. When the accused arrived there, he was brought before the Commandant, and I was required to act as Interpreter ; this, however, I at first declined, having ,Mfr life 6* BTTCKLET. given up ray connection with the Gevterninent; But considering that the life of a felkw-creature was i» jeopardy, I at length consented. A hoy, in the employ of Mr. Faulkner, who was supposed to know something of the language* was in- terrogated as to what had passed between hint and the prisoner? But I soon found the hoy was altogether ig- norant, and was shocked at the idea of his evidence hieing taken. I then questioned the accused as to how hie became possessed of the clothes? Be explained, by stating, that they were given him in the manner before- lnentioned. I asked the poor fellow if he would know the carpenter again ; or where he lived, so as to enable us to obtain his evidence? He said the man had left (belong, and that he knew nothing about his present, residence. I explained all this to the Justices, bat the Captain of the vessel persisted in the statement that tile coat belonged to Mr. Hesse ; so the prisoner was remanded to the guard-house. The coat was then given into my* charge, with instructions that I should make every enquiry concerning its former ownership; and with that view, I gave it into the care of the Chief Constable, readily enlisting his sympathies for the native, who I believed to be innocent. One day whilst walking along the banks of the river we were talking over the matter, particularly of the hard swearing of the Captain, and of the probable con- sequences to the accused: when a man, who, with his wife, was within hearing, suddenly stopped, and said LIFE 0? BUCKLEY* HI he should like to see the coat; for he remembered having given a coat of the kind with other things to ? native, for carrying his chests up from the Geelong beach in the manner already mentioned. We listened with great interest to his statements, and he afterwards fully proved the identity of the coat; and that the stains of supposed blood upon it were red paint marks, occa- sioned by himself when wearing it in his trade *t Launceaton. He afterwards clearly identified the pri- soner as the native to whoni he had given the coat and trousers; so that after an unavoidable short delay, he was discharged, greatly delighted at being liberated; although, on finding himself once more at liberty, he «ried loudly and Utterly, like a child. I make no remark upon the conduct of his accuser, who had so nearly sacrificed the life of another ; but I must do the Commandant, Captain Lonsdale, the jus- tice to say, he did all he could in the matter to ad* minister justice free from prejudice; and that, after the case was dismissed, he ordered me to take the native to his own house, where he was received and treated with great kindness. After eating as much as he pleased, at my recommendation he was given blankets, toma- hawks, and other things as presents, added to wlu'ch, he received a quantity of bread and meat, to help him on his way homewards to his tribe, about fifty miles distant, over a portion of which I accompanied him, leaving the poor feUev? at l$at in high spirits . gnd good humour. It was a very lucky escape for him, 4nd the eircumntftncea ^»e additional proofs of the danger 142 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. at that time arising out of false information in any matter where the natives were concerned. As it may be expected, that I should say something more about the localities I visited, of the climate I ex- perienced, during so many years, and of other things and circumstances which more properly belong to the history of a country, than to that of an individual, I will add a few brief remarks. The climate I found very genial, in temperature I suppose between that of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land; but during the winter months, the cold winds and rains, in the country near the coast, are very trying, even to the Aborigines, who often shrink before the heavy gales into hollow trees, caves, and holes in the rocks, in a pitiable manner. In the summer months, it is not so hot as many imagine, but as the heat gene- rates myriads of musquittoes, and' of a very large sort of horse fly, the traveller suffers much inconvenience and torment. These, however, are not peculiar to Port Phillip, for in all uncleared and uncultivated coun- tries it is the same. To avoid these insects the natives carry their lighted fire-sticks, holding them to wind- ward. The thunder and lightning storms are occasionally very heavy, and I have already noticed the shock of an earthquake, but I never heard of any other. There was also one heavy flood, in consequence of continuous rains, but they are not often known to exceed the sup- ply required by vegetation. The trees and flowers.— I have not the ability te give LIFE OP BUCKLEY. *143 an account of these ; neither is it necessary, scientific explorers having done so in various works, which the growing importance and natural resources of the pro- vince have rendered it desirable to bring before the public. The same with the birds and other creatures. It is more especially my business, in this narrative, to allude to the Aborigines. The natives live to about the same age, generally, as civilized people — some of them, to be very grey-headed. They have an odd idea of death, for they do not sup- pose that any one dies from natural causes, but from human agencies : such as those to which I have alluded in previous pages of this narrative. The women seldom have more than six children, and not often so many. So soon as they have as many as they can conveniently carry about and provide for, they kill the rest imme- diately after birth : not to eat them — as may be sup- posed — but with the idea that, for the sake of both parties, and under such circumstances, death is prac- tical mercy. To resume the thread of my narrative. I sailed from Melbourne in the Yarra Yarra, on the twenty-eighth of December, 1837, and landed at Hobart Town the tenth of January following. On arriving, the master of the vessel, Captain Lancey, went with me to the Bank, to procure the value of a cheque I had; and he afterwards took me to the Duchess of Kent Inn, where he enter- tained me very hospitably. In fact, on all occasions he behaved towards me in the most generous manner. At the Inn, I was visited by a Mr. CuttSj then the 144 uvs at bucxu&y. landlord of the Black Swan, Hobart Town, a country- man of mine, who insisted on my making his house my home, free of all charge; which invitation, for a few weeks, I thankfully accepted. . In my rambles about the town, I was frequently accosted by persons anxious for information about Port Phillip, with the extraordinary accounts of which all Van Diemen's Land had become, I may say, inflamed. To the new colony, vessels foil of emigrants, with sheep, <&c., were almost daily proceeding; so that any information from me waa considered valuable. In one of my perambulations, I met with a gentleman who gave me a ticket to the Theatre ; asking me, at the same time, to accompany him, which I did, and was very much gratified at what I saw. At length one of the performers came to ask me if I would like to visit the place again, and come upon the stage? Thinking his offer kind, and that I should see the performance better there, I said yes ; little supposing I was to be then exhibited as the huge Anglo* Australian giant. However, the next day I found what was intended, and soon gave * denial to any such display, very much to the mortification, as I afterwards understood, of the stage manager, who had publicly notified my appear- ance. About this time I was visited at Mr. Cutis', by one of my old shipmates in the Calcutta, who had become a wealthy and respectable settler, near the Green Ponds, about thirty miles from Hobart Town. After a few days, and he had settled his business, I accepted an LIFE OF BUCKLBY. 145 invitation to accompany him to his home, where I was hospitably entertained more than three weeks ; when, being tired of an indolent life, I begged my friend to make interest with his Excellency Sir John Franklin, so that I might have employ. My friend lost no time in acceding to my wishes ; and, in a few days I was directed to call at Government House at an early hour, and had the honour to be introduced to Sir John and Lady Franklin, and to several gentlemen who were breakfasting there. Numerous were the questions they put to me, and amongst the rest was, what I wished on my own account? I replied, a small allotment of land! His Excellency said he could not grant land, but that he would see what could be done in the way of finding me employment. According to this promise, I was soon afterwards appointed Assistant to the Storekeeper at the Immi- grants' Home, Hobart Town ; which situation I held about three months ; when the immigrants having been all settled, the establishment was broken up, and I was transferred to the Female Nursery, as Gate-keeper. At the Immigrants' Home I had become acquainted with a family— consisting of a respectable mechanic, his wife, and daughter; the former of whom, thinking to better himself, went on to Sydney ; but, whilst on a journey he afterwards undertook overland to Port Phil- lip, he was killed by natives near the Murray River ; thus leaving his family unprovided for. The fact of his death having been ascertained, I ten- dered myself to the mother; she accepted me as her L 146 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. future husband, and we were married by the Rev. Mr, Ewing, the Episcopalian Clergyman at New Town, in the month of March, 1840. Soon after this, I was attacked by typhus fever, and lay many days suffering very much ; it being the only severe illness I had undergone in all my life. The kind attentions I received from my wife and her daughter however, under the merciful providence of God, at length restored me to health, but not to such health as I had previously enjoyed ; my privations and exposure in the bush, with increased years, having, no doubt, materially damaged my naturally strong constitution. In the year 1850, there was an alteration in the establishment at the Nursery, and I was paid off by the Convict Department, my services being no longer re- quired, with a pension of twelve pounds per annum. With this small sum, for which I feel grateful, under all the circumstances of my case, and the industry of my wife and daughter, we contrive to live humbly and honestly; but I do entertain a hope, that something will be done for me by the local authorities of Port Phillip— now the great and wealthy colony of Victoria — when, by the means of this narrative of my life, my sufferings, services, and wants, are better, and more generally known. My narrative is now at its close ; let its details of dangers and privations serve as a moral to the young and reckless, — to all who, passing unheeded the admo- nitions of parents, guardians, and friends, rush heed- lessly on the future, with all its trials and consequences, LIFE OP BUCKLEY. I4T occasioning many bitter pangs to those who would instil into their minds motives of action, founded on religion and propriety. The want of these, or rather the abandonment of them, by me in early life, led to the sufferings I endured in after years, some of which I have here endeavoured faithfully to portray. Finally. — To the Almighty God of my existence, I thus publicly offer up in all humility, my heartfelt prayers of thankfulness, for the great and merciful preservation and undeserved blessings he has vouchsafed unto me in all my wanderings: hoping, that when it may please Him to call me hence — I may surrender myself into his hands v with the true spirit and feelings of a Christian man. As this page closes " The Adventures of WilEan* Buckley," in justice to him something ought here to be said in furtherance of his claim upon the Home and Local Governments. It is generally admitted, that had he not been at Port Phillip when the first Settlers ar- rived, they would, most probably, have encountered' dangers and difficulties, which were averted only by hiw presence and influence. It is understood, that two hundred acres of land were l2 148 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. ordered him by Sir Richard Bourke, which grant he never received. He however yet lives, and the oppor- tunity therefore remains to do him justice. It is not to be supposed that those who have the control of these affairs in Victoria, will rest content with his receiving the pittance of twelve pounds annually from the British Government, for services performed in Van Diemen's Land ; — to think this, would be a reproach to all con- cerned. Let us then hope that some additional provi- sion will be made for him, so that he may never have cause to regret (on account of poverty) his return to civilization, or the services rendered to those of his countrymen who found him in his solitude, and restored him to what he hoped would prove happiness for the few remaining years of his extraordinary existence. In all the surrounding prosperity, arising out of the increase of flocks, and herds, and gold, surely Buckley may be permitted, in a very small degree, to partici- pate ? His career in this island has been most respecta- ble and praiseworthy. Under all circumstances, then, Victorians, give him a reward suited to your means, your liberal feelings, and your sense of justice. — Ed. 149 APPENDIX. HISTORICAL RECORDS OF THE FOURTH REGIMENT OF FOOT. In the early part of this narrative it is said, that re- ferences to the campaigns in Holland in which Buckley with his regiment took part, must be very brief. It would, however, be an injustice to the service, and to the gallant corps to which he belonged, did we omit the following extract from the historical records of the Fourth, or King's Own : — " Leaving Botley in April, 1799, the Regiment proceeded to Worcester, from thence to Horsham Barracks in July; and in the following month it marched to the camp on Barham Downs. " The Militia being permitted this year to transfer their services to the regular Regiments, two thousand seven hundred men volunteered to the King's Own, in 150 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. consequence of which the Regiment was formed inte three battalions. Major-General the Earl of Chatham was appointed Colonel-Commandant of the second bat- talion, and Major-General Lord Charles Somerset Co- lonel-Commandant of the third. " On the 3rd September the Prince of Wales wa* pleased to present a pair of new colours to the first lattalion on Barham Downs. The Regiment was formed in square, and his Royal Highness addressed the officers and men as follows: — " ' It affords me the highest satisfaction to have the honor of presenting this gallant and distinguished corps with their colours. Nothing but a blameless accident could have deprived you of those you possessed before, and I now replace them, under the firmest conviction that there is not a Regiment in his Majesty's service, that will ever support and defend its colours with more valour and gallantry than the Fourth, or King's Own* It considerably enhances the pleasure I feel on this occasion, that the ceremony has happened on a day when every British heart must be filled with gladness at the tidings which have just been received of the heroic actions our brave countrymen have achieved, in endeavouring to rescue Holland from the detestable tyranny of France; and I perceive with true pride, that every countenance I behold partakes of the noble ardour, and that every heart is panting to share in their laurels and glory.' 11 In a few days after the presentation of the new colours, the Regiment was ordered to proceed on foreign APPENDIX. 151 service. It embarked at Deal, and after landing in Holland, joined the Anglo-Russian army, commanded by his Royal Highness the Duke of York, when the three battalions of the King's Own, and the Thirty-first Regiment were formed in brigade, under the orders of Major-General the Earl of Chatham. This brigade formed part of the column under Lieutenant-General Dundas, in the attack of the enemy's position near Bergen and Egmont-op-zee on the 2nd October. The King's Own were engaged amongst the Sand-hills, and evinced the same intrepidity and firmness, for which the Regiment had been distinguished on former occa- sions. The enemy was driven from his position, and the troops received the thanks and approbation of tha Commander-in-Chief. The Regiment had three men killed; Ensign Carruthers, one Sergeant, and eight private men wounded; one Sergeant, and six men missing. " In the attack of the enemy's position between Be- verwyck and Wyck-op-zee, on the 6th October, the three battalions of the King's Own were sharply engaged. The action was most severe, and was continued with sanguinary obstinacy until night, when the enemy retreated, leaving the allies masters of the field. " The King's Own had Lieutenant-Colonel Dickson, Lieutenant Forster, and twenty-five men killed; Major- General the Earl of Chatham, Lieutenant-Colonel Hodg- son, Captain Palmer, Ensigns Johnson, Carruthers, Nichols, Highmore and Archibald, with four Sergeants, and one hundred and eight rank and file wounded; 152 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. Majors Wynch and Horndon, Captain Gillmour, Lieu- tenants Deare and Wilson wounded and taken priso- ners ; Lieutenant- Colonel Cholmondelay, Major Pringle, Captains Archdall, Broadie and. Chaplain, Lieutenants Gazely and Wilbr&hams, Ensigns Brown, Ellis, Hill, Anderson, M'Pherson and Tyron, with twelve Ser- geants, one drummer, and five hundred and two rank and file, prisoners of war and missing. " Several circumstances having occurred to render further operati6ns in Holland unadvisable, the army re-embarked and returned to England. The three bat- talions of the King's Own landed at Yarmouth, and marched to Ipswich, where they passed the winter." I APPEKDIX. 153 THE FIRST SETTLEMENT OF PORT PHILLIP, AND SUBSEQUENT ABANDONMENT. .'j « .•J ' '.* br& As many persons, in all parts of the world, are looking with great interest to the Australian Colonies, now so rapidly rising into importance, the following extract from Bent's Tasmanian Almanack for 1829, will not be out of place in a work of this kind :— " Lieutenant-Governor Collins arrived at Port Phillip, to form a British settlement at that place, with his Ma- jesty's ships Calcutta and Ocean, .having onboard de- tachments of Royal Marines, a number of free settlers, and several hundred prisoners, stores, &c, October 9th, Governor Collins having left England on the 27th of April 1803, in the former vessel, for the express pur- pose of forming another settlement on the south coast of New Holland, for the further reception of convicts transported from Great Britain. Governor Collins, soon after his arrival at Port Phillip, saw the imprac- ticability of colonizing that place, in consequence of the great want of water, and immediately dispatched an open boat from thence to Sydney, with an application 154 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. to Governor King, for instructions how to proceed, and stating the incapabilities of Port Phillip for the forma- tion of a second colony. In consequence, Lieutenant- Governor Collins received instructions from head- quarters, to make a settlement, either at Port Dal- rymple, or on the banks of the Eiver Derwent, Van Diemen's Land, which he found the best adapted for the purpose. After due and deliberate consideration, Lieutenant-Governor Collins determined on settling at the latter place ; and the whole of the establishment was removed from Port Phillip thither, in two separate drafts, by the Ocean, assisted by a government brig, called the Lady Nelson. The latter vessel was em- ployed upon this service, in consequence of instructions having been received from Governor King, requiring the immediate service of the Calcutta at Port Jackson, in order to assist the Civil and Military Authorities in quelling an insurrection which had broken out there. The first draft, in which was Lieutenant-Governor Collins, left Port Phillip on the 30th January. " 1804. — Port Phillip having thus been abandoned and evacuated, Lieutenant-Governor Collins, in the transport ship Ocean, Captain Matthew, arrived in the River Derwent, Van Diemen's Land, on the 16th of February, when this part of the coast of the island was first formed a British settlement: the colony having been taken possession of and the British colours dis- played, by Governor Collins — notwithstanding a small party of soldiers and prisoners had previously left Port Jackson to take a temporary possession, for fear that APPENDIX. 155 the French should first form a settlement in the island. This little establishment disembarked at a place called 4 Restdown.' The party, under the command of Lieu- tenant Moore, accompanied by Dr. Mountgarret, were found by Governor Collins in a most wretched state — almost approaching that of starvation; Lieutenant Bowen, in the Lady Nelson, having sailed on his return for Sydney, for provisions. Lieutenant-Governor Collins, after making many surveys, formed the head- quarters at its present site, which he named 'Hobart Town,' after Lord Hobart, the then Secretary of State for the Colonies. The Calcutta, 50 guns, Captain Woodriff, which was left at Port Phillip by Governor Collins, arrived at the Derwent, June 23. The Ocean and Calcutta had on board the following officers and persons, who were to compose the Civil and Military establishments of the new and second colony in the Southern Ocean :— " Civil. — Lieutenant-Governor, David Collins, Esq., Colonel, R.M. ; Chaplain, Rev. Robert Enopwood, M. A. ; Surgeon Superintendent of Convicts, Dr. Edward Foord Bromley, R.N. ; Colonial Surgeon, William J. Anson, Esq. ; Assistant Surgeons, Matthew Bowden, Esq., and William Hopley, Esq.; Deputy-Commissary-General, Leonard Fosbrook, Esq.; Deputy-Surveyor, George Predaux Harris, Esq, ; Mineralogist, A. W. H. Hum- phrey, Esq.; Superintendents of Convicts, Messrs. Thomas Clark and William Paterson ; Wesleyan Mis- sionary, Rev. Mr. Crook and family. " Military. — Lieutenant-Colonel Collins, R.M. ; Lieu- 156 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. tenant William Sladen, E.M. ; Lieutenant J. M, Johnson, R.M. ; Lieutenant Edward Lord, R.M. ; thirty-nine Marines, three Serjeants, one Drummer and one Fifer ; besides which, there were also, three hundred and sixty-seven Male Prisoners, with twelve free women, wives of Prisoners. " The Officers on board H. M. Ship, Calcutta.- — Daniel Woodriff, Esq., Post Captain, Royal Navy; First Lieutenant, James Tuckey, Esq. ; Second Lieutenant, Richard Donevan, Esq.; Third Lieutenant, Nicholas Pateshall, Esq. ; Fourth Lieutenant, William Dowers, Esq. ; Fifth Lieutenant, John Houston, Esq. ; Master, Richard Wright, Esq. ; Surgeon, Edward Foord Brom- ley, Esq,; Purser, Edward White, Esq." It is curious to observe the reasons for abandoning Port Phillip; namely, "The impracticability of colo- nizing that place, in consequence of the great want of water" In those days, exploring parties could not have been formed of the most energetic adventurers, and that hardy race now known as overlanders, were not even thought of, as an especial class of pioneers, although occasionally an individual astonished the world by a publication of his travels. Had any such men accompanied Governor Collins's expedition, how very different would have been the result. However, let us not censure, but take the next extract, as one of praise :— " On the 24th of March, Lieutenant-Governor Collins died suddenly, fifty-four years of age, having adminis- APPENDIX. 157 tered the affairs of the colony for six years and thirty- one days. As a Governor, he was beloved by all the colonists, to whom he was truly a father and a friend. His humanity to the unfortunate prisoners under his care, was most conspicuous-~being ever more ready to pardon than to punish the offender. He was always ready in attending to, and complying with, the wants and wishes of all classes of the people. He had been for upwards of thirty^six years in the Royal Marine Forces. In his youth he had served several campaigns in Ame- rica, under his father, General Collins ; and was at the battle of Bunker's Hill. In New South Wales, he had been in actual employment nearly a quarter of a century ; having, when a Captain in his corps, been appointed Judge Advocate, on the first Establishment of that colony, under Governor Phillip. In this situation he continued until the year 1796, when he returned to England, and there published his history of the colony, in two quarto volumes ; and was afterwards reinstated by his late Majesty to all the rank he had lost in the Army by accepting a civil appointment, as Judge Advocate. His known abilities, long services, and great local knowledge, then gained him the high office of Governor.* ' In justice to the memory of this excellent man, we give the following extract from Babrington's History of New South Wales : — " Colonel David Collins was the eldest son of General Arthur Tooker Collins and Harriet Frazer, of Pack, in the King's County, Ireland, and grandson of Arthur I 158 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. Collins, Esq., Author of the ' Peerage of England/ &e;. He was born on the 3rd March, 1756, and received a liberal education under the Rev. Mr. Marshall, Master ef the Grammar School, at Exeter, where his father re- sided. In 1770, he was appointed a Lieutenant of Marines, and in 1772, was- with the late Admiral M'Bride in the Southampton Frigate, when the un- fortunate Matilda,. Queen of Denmark, was rescued from the dangers that awaited her, by the British govern- ment, and conveyed to a place of safety in the King's,, her brother, Hanoverian dominions. On that occasion: he commanded the guard that received her Majesty, and had the honour of kissing her hand. In 1775 he was at the Battle of Bunker's Hill, in which the first battalion of Marines, to which he belonged, so signally distinguished itself; having its Commanding Officer, the gallant Major Pitcairn, and a great many officers and men killed in storming the redoubt, besides a very large proportion wounded. In 1777 he was Adjutant of the Chatham Division, and in 1782, Captain of Marines on board the Courageux, 74 guns,, commanded by the late Lord Mulgrave, and participated in the partial action that took place with the enemies fleet when Lord Howe relieved Gibraltar. Reduced to half- pay at the peace of 1782 he resided at Rochester, in Kent, having previously married an American lady,, and on its being determined to found a colony, by sending Convicts to Botany Bay, he was then ap- pointed Judge Advocate to the intended settlement;, and in that capacity sailed with Governor Phillip in May APPENDIX. 159^ 1787, (who moreover appointed him his Secretary,) which situation he filled with the greatest credit to himself, and advantage to the colony, until his return to England in 1797. The History of the settlement, which he soon after published, followed by a second volume — a Work abounding with information highly interesting — and written with the utmost simplicity, will be read and referred to as a book of authority, as long as the colony exists whose name it bears. The appointment of Judge- Advocate however proved even- tually injurious to his interests. When absent, he had been passed over when it came to his turn to be put on full pay, nor was he permitted to return to England to reclaim his rank in the corps, neither could he ever obtain any effectual redress, but was afterwards com- pelled to come in as a junior Captain of the corps, though with his proper rank in the army. The differ- ence this made in regard to his promotion was, that he died a Captain instead of a Colonel Commandant — his rank in the army being merely Brevet. He had thou the mortification of finding, that after ten years of dis- tinguished service in the infancy of a colony, and to the sacrifice of every real comfort, his only Reward had been, the loss of many years' rank — a vital injury to any officer. A remark, which his wounded feelings wrung from him at the close of the second volume of his History of the settlement, appears to have awakened the sympathies of those in power, and he was almost immediately after its publication offered the govern- ment of the projected settlement of Van Diemen's Land 160 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. — which he accepted—- and sailed once more for that quarter of the globe, where he founded his new colony, struggled with great difficulties — which he overcame — and after governing there six years, was enjoying the flourishing state his exertions had produced, when he died suddenly — after a few days' confinement, from a slight cold— on the 24th March, 1810. His person was remarkably handsome, and his manners extremely pre- possessing, which, to a cultivated understanding, and an early fondness for the ' Belle Lettres,' he joined the most cheerful and social disposition. How he was es- teemed by the colony over which he presided, will appear from the following extract of a letter announcing his decease :->- 4 By the death of Colonel Collins, this colony has sustained a loss it will take a number of years to get over. I have known and served with him from the first establishment of the colony, and when I speak the feelings of my heart on this melancholy occa- sion, I am sure that it is not my single voice, but that of every Department whatsoever in the settlement, who, with the heartfelt regret, universally acknowledged him to have been the Father and Friend of all! ' " APPENDIX. 161 ABOKIGINES' SUPERSTITIONS AND JEALOUSIES. With reference to the Superstitions of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of uncivilized countries, there is one noticed by Russell, in his History, especially deserving record in a Narrative of this kind. Alluding to those of the Mosquittoe shore, he says — " The Mosquittoes are distinguished into two sorts, the Beds, and Blacks, or Samboes. The first are the original inhabitants of the country ; the second are the descendants of about fifty negroes, whom a Portuguese Captain had brought from Guinea, and was carrying to Brazil, but who rendered themselves masters of the vessel, throwing all overboard, but one man. The as- sistance of this man, however, was insufficient to navi- gate the vessel, which, left at the mercy of the winds, was driven upon Cape Gracias a Dios, where the crew fell into the hands of the Mosquittoes, among whom the Negroes lived for some time in a state of servitude, and afterwards became the partners of their dangers and toils. " The Portuguese was so much like a Spaniard, against whom the animosity of the Mosquittoes is implacable, that his life was, with difficulty, spared ; and after he had been a slave for two years, it was determined to sacrifice M 162 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. i him at the funeral of the master to whose lot he had' fallen, that he might serve him in the other world. " Luckily, the Portuguese had but one eye. He re- presented to the General Assembly of the nation, which was convened on that occasion, 4 that a one-eyed man: could be of service to nobody in the other world, as it was difficult to see clear there, even with two/ His argument succeeded, the Mosquittoes not only granted him his life, but also his liberty, a wife, and the sur- name of The man who knows a great deal" Next, with reference to their jealousy, as shown in this narrative ; it is a feeling known amongst all men, of all nations, and all classes. The following is an ex- tract from the Work mentioned in the title page—" The Emigrant's Guide:" — 44 The men have been represented as most outrageously ieaious, but I do not believe they are more so than any other people. It is, however, a melancholy fact, one that will scarcely bear reflecting upon, and one that perhaps, 'will melt even Lawyers to pity/ that the American Indian has no more idea of a Lord Chan- cellor, than he has of the Chief Officer of the Inqui- sition, and knows no more about a suit in Chancery, than he does of the North-west Passage. Poor fellow, he does not even know the meaning of an action for damages ; — totally senseless to all the charms of briefs and refreshers, he actually lives, moves, and has his being, without the assistance of ' Letters and Messages/ er of even one solitary six-and-eight-penny, to inform him that black is not white, and vice ver&d. Now, where people thus destitute are left to follow their own ideas- of right and wrong, it is not to be wondered at, that they should act promptly, and upon the impulses of the moment, I would therefore strongly, and most seriously, advise the emigrant to Upper Canada, to constantly bear in mind the Tenth Commandment ; if .he does not, his blood be upon his own head, for he will be scalp'd to a certainty. He may rest assured that the only progressive operatives introduced to his notice should he fail to do so, will be a scalping-knife and a rifle ; and that the only brief, or instructions, will be given cm a round piece of lead, which will find it. w*y through his Chancery Court much: quicker than would a suit in charge of those who are, of course, all— all — disinterested and honorable men ! ! ! " So you see reader, there are other people in the world, besides the Port Phillip natives, who are occa- sionally very jealous. It would be the labour of a life to write a History of Superstitions, — for what people or nation is without them ? We should turn our thoughts inwards therefore, before we laugh at the superstitions of others, and re- member that it is not so very long since our own country was full of them, — even to the general belief that a child born with a caul on his head, can never be drowned ; and again, that old Van Derdecken, the Flying Dutch- man, is still knocking about in a gale of wind off the Cape ; — or again, that the man who writes a book (one tike this of course) most be clever— sad superstition ! I m2 164 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. EDITORIAL NOTES. Since the preceding pages were placed in the hands of the Printer, I have read with considerable care and great interest, the Exploring Expedition of Sir Thomas Mitchell, a work which probably is not excelled by any, in its minute descriptions of a line of country previously unexplored. By that reading, I find Buckley's descriptions of many of the customs of the Aborigines fully confirmed, whilst others again are peculiar to those of New South Wales. Sir Thomas Mitchell, however, does not state, that the natives of the localities he visited, are cannibals ; but Buckley clearly shews, that those round about Port Phillip are so, under particular and exciting circumstances. They both say something about their extraordinary imitative powers, and I may add my testimony on that matter from my own experi- ence of the Western coast. I preface my remarks by stating, that a long intercourse with the North American Indians, in peace and war, has given me a tolerable knowledge of what is called savage life, and of the great difference which exists between the warriors of the new world, and the savages of the Australian wilds; the former being faithful, courageous, and intellectual; the latter on the contrary, being generally treacherous, cowardly, and mere creatures holding the link in the chain of animal life between the man and the monkey. I write as of my own knowledge, having been initiated into all the customs of one of the Six Nations, the Hurons, by ATPENDIX. 165 whom I was adopted as a son, and brother, eight and thirty years ago, during the war with the United States. The North American Indian is proverbial for his calm, quiet, contemplative habits — his philosophical endurance of pain and suffering; the Australian Aborigine on the contrary, except when meditating mischief, being all monkeyism — all effer- vescence — nothing escapes his momentary notice — his imita- tive efforts — whether it be sound, or action; occasionally also — but only occasionally — he is courageous. These remarks lead me to relate an anecdote or two relative to the natives of Western Australia, which may not be out of place in this Narrative. About three years after the establishment of the Swan River colony, her Majesty's ship Sulphur, Captain Dance, which was attached to it, was ordered to the Southward, to examine the line of coast between FreemantJe and King €teorge's Sounds Her first Lieutenant was the present Commander, William Preston, a man, whose heart and soul were not only in tlje service to which he belonged, but, in that of the new colony, into the interior of which he had led several exploring parties with great tact, talent, and untiring zeal. Captain Preston was, and doubtless still is, a man precisely adapted to perform such work, he being possessed of good temper, great kind- heartedness, and undaunted courage. He was somewhat re- markable amongst us for odd expressions,— made applicable by him, to all things, all times, and all circumstances. The one most general with him was, " Go it ye cripples." If the wine bottle was to be pushed about, the pass-word was, " Go it ye cripples ; " — if at a rubber of whist, and the next player was a slow coach, it was " Go it ye cripples ; " — if anything was to be said or done, the cry was the same, " Go it ye cripples. 11 When the Sulphur arrived off the Vasse, to the northward of Cape Lewen, it was determined to send a boat on shore to open up a friendly communication with the natives, many of whom were seen upon the beach, and with this view my friend Preston. 166 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. •landed alone, and unarmed. Out of the way of the inflowing wave, he seated himself on the sand, sailor fashion, regardless - of all personal consequences. As the natives commenced jump- ing and dancing before and around him, shaking their speasa and knocking their clubs about, he began to shout " Go it ye crippleB;" which cry, they repeated readily, and apparently with great delight. Presently he took off his neckerchief, and flung it amongst them, with a "Go it ye cripples ; " then some- thing else went flying, with the same shout, until it became a kind of peaceful, although most uproarious, Oorrobberree. At •length he came on board again, but " Go it ye cripples," as a friendly salutation, did not leave, and probably never will leave the natives of the Western coast. To shew this, and how useful that sound was to me some months after, I will relate the following rather perilous ad- venture: — 4 In eighteen hundred and thirty-three, several of the tribes round about the Swan and Canning Rivers had become very 'dangerous, several of the settlers having been massacred, and the flocks and herds having suffered severely. On one ec- *oasfan intelligence was brought to me, as Resident Magistrate of the Perth district, that a flock of sheep, belonging to Mr. Brown, the Colonial Secretary, whose torn was ebeut eigfrt miles above the capital, had been driven away by black feUows. As was my duty, I dispatched several armed parties in search, accompanying one of them myself. After a wearying march of several hours under a hot sun, I found, about four o'clock in the •afternoon, that by having taken what I thought would prove a 'short cut to the Helena rivulet, I had lost my way, and all my party, excepting a Mr. Clelland, a strong-nerved intelligent Scotchman, on whose courage I could rely in any case of emergency. After oooeying for some time to no purpose, we consulted together as to what had better be done in the event •of felling in with the natives, and especially those of whom we xsrere in search, Each of us was well armed with a double- APPENDIX. 167 ^barrelled gun, and plenty of ball cartridge ; and being so pro- vided, out proposed order of battle was soon determined upon. It was very simple, namely, to reserve one barrel, and to stand by each other to the last I may here remark, that unlike the natives of the Australian Continent generally, many of the blacks of the Western coast Are queer fellows to deal with, and that a steady hand and ready eye, are necessary on every occasion when mischief it contemplated. After a time we became entangled in «ome scrub and swampy ground, and just as we had cleared them, and ascended a rise in the forest, we came suddenly upon a strong body of Masks, Who, probably, had heard our oooeying. The leading man was directly in front of me. He immediately poised his spear in his throwing-stick, threw one leg forward, and made ready for the hurl at about twenty paces distance. At the*ame instant, I came to the present, with both barrels cocked, taking a sure and certain aim at the debateable ground between his ferocious- looking eyes ; — it was a good aim, for he seemed to me to be -looking down both muzzles — my friend Clelland re m a inin g calmly at the recover. I had passed twice down the rapids of the Long Sault, (once by moonlight,) the most dangerous part of the magnificent Saint Lawrence — I had heard the night war shrieks of hostile Indians, and been in more skirmishes and fights than I think proper to enumerate, but I confess, neither of these had queered me so much, as did the savage then in front of me ; however, I am proud to recollect, that I was able, and without shrinking, to watch his eye as carefully in this game for life or death, as a Somersetshire wrestler would for the first throw. At length, in about aminute I suppose, up rose the shout, " Go it ye cripples," " Go it ye cripples," from a native who was rising the ridge, and who, fortunately, had recognised me as a friend of Preston's. In another second, up went the double-barrel, down went tha spear, and " Go it ye cripples" was the order of ithe day. 168 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. The excitement over, and when my friend Clelland and my- self had lighted our cigars, and perhaps taken a refresher out of our buffalo horns, I gave the natives to understand all about the missing sheep, which I found they knew nothing of, but that they were willing to accompany me in search of them. The day ended in the restoration of the flock, and a kind reception by their owner, whose hospitality will be remembered by the early settlers of that colony, so long as memory lasts. That evening the natives gave us a great Gorrobberree, and all ended in peace, when I gave the pass-word, — " Go it ye crip- ples. Home." That night, I believe, I dream't of my friend with the spear and throwing-stick, for all hands told me in the morning, that I awoke shouting, " Go it ye cripples. Home." I am sorry to have to record, that although all things passed off so well on this occasion, in a few weeks after, the same body of blacks committed several unprovoked acts of great atrocity, so that our mutual friendly salutation of " Go it Cripples," and its influences, were exchanged for something like " Ride out, ride out, The Foe to scout ; Mount, mount for Bransome every man :" followed by prompt, and well deserved punishment. I take this opportunity of giving an opinion, founded on many years' experience, that the true and most effective principle of successfully controlling savages, is founded on consistency. Kindness one day, and harshness another, will never do. They should be treated, as nearly as possible, on one uniform system, and when they return cruelty and ingratitude for kindness, they must be punished, — not in a half-and-half manner, as some per- sons coerce children, but in reality, so that they may " never forget to remember" the when, — the whereabouts, — and all that happened. 169 THE CONTRAST. 179 THE CONTRAST! STATISTICS OF THE PROVINCE OF VICTORIA, 1851. Readeb, cast your mental vision back to page 111 of this narrative; there you will see the first white canvass homes of the hardy Pioneers, who arrived sixteen years ago, to clear the way for another strong, arm of British power— a fnture nation of the descendants, or offshoots of the old stock. Do them the justice to think, for a few moments, on their courage, their perseverance, their anxieties, — and honour them as they deserve. Look again, at that solitary little vessel riding quietly Uke a swan on the bosom of that magnificent basin ; the brings them the only means of communication with other shores. Look at the people now, and the forests of masts. Survey the splendid harbours and the magnificent cities APPENDIX. — THE CONTRAST. 171 <€>f Melbourne and Geelong now. Is not the change, and in so brief a space of time, wonderful? Bead the details of the progress onward, in the fol- lowing Statistics, taken from the " Illustrated Austra- lian Magazine," which we give in order that the astonishing resources of the Province of Victoria (over which Buckley trod for -thirty-two years, the only white man,) may be known, whenever, and wherever, this History of his Life -and Adventures are favoured with •a perusal. — The Census, which came off this year as usual en the second •of Match, has not in its results disappointed even sanguine expectations. In round numbers Victoria contains 80,000, co- lonists, New South Wales 192,000, South Australia 68,000, and Van Diemen's Land the same number. The respective capitals of these colonies are rising by rapid but sure gradations into cities of even European magnitude. Sydney contains 44,000 inhabitants, Melbourne 23,000, Hobart Town 20,000, and Ade- laide 15,000. Geelong, the second town of Victoria, is the largest of any of the second towns of the Sister Colonies, and contains upwards of 8,000 souls, and claims the additional pre-einjnence 4ttnong these towns of Municipal Institutions. The condition* of the Public Revenues correspond with the general prosperity and extension of the colony. There is a satisfactory increase in the various departments of the " Genera) Revenue," as distinguished from the fluctuating items of the *" down Revenue." The total receipts under both heads haafe been for 1850 £261,821, against £206,799 for the previous yea£ For New South Wales, exclusive of Port Phillip, the amounts have been £317,291 for 1850, and £290,847 for 1849. The Commercial results for the past year are stilt nuU striking tfyui the Fnancial. The export of Tallow from VJjjg toria bajl xisqn to the unprecedented quantity of "4,490 tons,* of the value of £133,000. The export of Wool has now advanced to the immense quantity of upwards of 18,000,000* o&podnds "weight, being four millions of pounds more than the quantity of -4bis staple produce exported from the older and larger colony of 172 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. New South Wales for the same period. The export of produce, for 1850, amounted in value to £1,022,064, against £737,067 for the previous year. The extraordinary discoveries of gold made about the middle of May last to the westward of Bathurst, are still the absorbing subject of public attention. The comparative abundance of the metal is now undoubtedly ascertained, as far as regards the present scene of operation. The actual extent of so lucrative a field is still to be explored; but it appears to be probable that it extends into Victoria in the direction of Gipps' Land to the East, and the Pyrenees to the West. The precious metal has also been recently found, or at least confidently asserted to exist, in other parts of Victoria. Much inconvenience must for a time result from this disco- very. Many branches of business must be affected, many labourers will leave and are leaving their hired service. The wages of those who remain must rise considerably, and many contracts must be unexpectedly disarranged from these altered relations. Provisions, beer, spirits, and other articles, have taken a sudden and considerable rise. On the other hand this extraordinary discovery will attract towards Australia the attention of the world. An immense tide of emigration may be expected to roll towards her shores, and a few years may now accomplish what even her san- guine colonists had removed to the distance of an age or a century. The operations at the Australian "Diggins" appear as yet to have been conducted without that confusion or lawless violence, which has too frequently characterised similar scenes in California. It is fortunate in this respect that the discovery has taken place in the midst of a society already formed, and a well-established government. Victoria Benevolent Asylum. — At a meeting of Committee held at Melbourne, on the 13th June instant, it appeared that the edifice of the Asylum was now complete. The total cost had been £3,272 19s. 6d. Some exterior additions were re- commended, which would add between one or two hundred pounds to this amount. APPENDIX. — THE CONTRAST. 173 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. SHIPS INWARDS. s From. No. Tons. Men. Great Britain 117 4 420 14 62,142 352 40,644 4,892 V. D. Land,&c Total for 1850 555 484 108,030 97,003 6198 5886 Ditto 1849 Increase. 1850 71 | 11-027 312 7 Comparative Return of the value of Imports into, and Exports from, the District of Port Phillip, for the Years 1849 and 1850. IMPORTS. 1 Articles the Produce or Manufacture of £ The U. Kingdom. Other British Dominions. Foreign States. • 1850 1849 517,035 307,078 102,138 61,214 125,752 111,539 744,925 479,831 EXPORTS. • Articles the Produce or Manufacture of h3 © JH New South Wales. The United Kingdom. Other Br. Doms. Foreign States. • % 1850 1849 1022,064 737,067 12,945 13,072 195 721 6,592 . 4,466 1041,796 755,326 174 lilFE OF BUCKLEY. IMPORTS.— Table exhibiting the quantity and value of the prin- cipal Articles of Import into Port Phillip for the year 1850. AM Imparts of less than £1000 value are excluded. DfcSCfclFTION. 1 QUJLRTITY. ▼ALUS. Agricultural Implements Alkali (Soda) Apparel and Slops ... • ••■ • • • Packages n 414 697 £ 1,036 2,987 • • • 11 1,964 42,08* Bags and Sacks. . . • • • n 883 15,485 Beer and Ale "* • • • Gallons 381,150 38,115 Blacking • •• Packages 425 l,37fr Blankets and Counterpanes. . . »i 145 3,25? Bricks, Bath and Fire • • •■ Number 114,438 1,487 Brushware • ••• Packages 225 1,172 Candles t • • No, 35,000 1,611 oanvass ... ... ... • •• Bales 112 2,723 Carpeting • • • n 40 1,596 Carriages and Car. materials Packages 91 1,713 ^^Vfoblo* • • • • »» •••• • * • t • t • Tons 1,138 1,284 Coffee and Chocolate ... • •• ii 46 i,850 Colours, Painters' • • • Packages 1,424 2,32* Cordage and Rope • •• »» 1,810 4,522 Corks and Bungs • »•* it 388 1,060- Cottons • • • ii 1,596 50,924 Cutlery ... • # # >i 48 1,550 Drugs and Medicines... Earthenware and China • • • « 1,567 10,307 • • • Crates 991 9,572 Fish, Salted • #• Packages 2,002 1,810 Flour and Bread • • • Cwts. 14,360 5,15* Fruits, Dried .„ »*■« Tons 279 6,155 „ Green ... • • • Bushels 7,603 1,362 Furniture a • •- Packages 765 7,534 Glass and Glassware ... • *• ii 1,903 7,162 Grain, Wheat • •« Bushels 30,492 3,873 „ v/ats ... ... • • • ii 24,261 2,57fr „ xuce • »»- ... ««-•' lbs. 277,760 1,436 Haberdashery ... • • • Packages 2,044 63,35^ Hardware and Ironmongery a 11,506 43,908 Hats, Caps and Bonnets • •• i» 353 7,02* Hosiery and Gloves ... • • • t» 153 4,494 Instruments, Musical. . . • • • it 98 3,865- Iron- and Steel r.. • • • Tons 2,310 23,653 MJ^D9KX*0 • ••* ••• ••• • • • it 190 3,547 Leather, Boots and Shoes • • • Packages 804 14,660* jjinens - ..,-■ ... ... • • • it 453 12,848 Machinery • • * »» • 480'! 1,429 APPENDIX. — THB CONTRAST. 175 » V * » If • ^^^^^^ DIBO&lPflpH • ■* QUAHTOTY. 1 ▼▲LOB. MQHneiy • • • Packages 4ft Nails, lion • •• 19 e,4za 11,736 Oatmeal and Peart Barley ... ft*. 142,560 1,188 Oilmen's Stoves... ... • •* PackaiMM 1 9,298 16,162 Oil, Black... • •• Tons 48 2,069 \A£, 1 JlTlBQOCI ««•■ ... • t • Gallons 3,557 1,067 Perfumery ... ' ... Pipes, Tobacco ... • •• • ••• Packages 92 1,004 1,007 1,187 Pitch, Tar and Rosin... »«• Casks 1,692 1,676 Plate and Plated Ware • *• Cases 13 1,020 Potatoes and Yams ... • •• Tons 807 2,179 Provisions, Baited • • •• ™ 19 1,100 Saddlery and Harness • •• Packages 412 H '8 4 0CUv« •• ••• • * • •••> • •• Tons 1,875* 4,&>8 Shocks and Staves- ... • t • Bundles 3,780 1,583 Dtuko # • • ••• ••* • •• Packages 43 2,591 1918X68 ••• • •• •••• • • • Number 375,000 2,873 Spirits, Brandy • • • Gallons 56,147 16,844 „ Rum • • • n 160,552 20,069 *% \xm. • • * • • • • t • i» 56,100 8,465 „ Whiskey • t • »i 23,478 5,280 $tarch and Blue • • • Boxes 653 1,033 Stationery and Books... • »• i» 1,339 20,412 Sugar, Refined ... • • • Tons 124 3,264 • • JCUv TV • • • • • • • • • ♦i 2,977 38,571 |Lk ©€••#• ••• • •• • •• • • • lbs. 722,824 17,26* Tin and Tinware • •-• Packages 1,183 2,353 Tobacco, Cigars and Snuff... Timber, Deals and Battens... lbs. 288,100 21,608 Feet 56,185 8,660 „ Sawn, &c. ... • •• »» 5,368*693 12,049 „ Palings • • • Number 2,996,284 9,253 „ Laths ... • • • »> 3,893,200 1,343 „ Shingles • • • »> 6,5^6,023 2,794 „ AH other • •• Feet 241,349 1,290 Vinegar • • « Gallons 15,220 1,142 iYy me ... ••* ••• • •• »» 78,720 13,795 Woodenware • •• Packages 1,724 1,058 Woollens »•» it 458 17,394 Woolpacks and Bagging • • • »> 1,130 19,188 Unenumerated • • • I860 1849 L850 ... . . ... ... — « . . ... .«» ... „P«- Total Imports for : Ditto „ „ — - ... 744*926 - 479331..- Increase for ] 265,0?4 : 176 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. ABSTRACT OP IMPORTS WHERE FEOM. 1850. 1849. United Kingdom New Zealand Other British Colonies United States of America Other Foreign States 599,784 853 97,563 89 46,636 356,791 102 102,873 1,555 18,510 Total ... ... 744,925 479,831 EXPORTS. Table exhibiting the quantity and value of the principal Articles of Export from the District of Port Phillip for the year 1850. DESCRIPTION. QUANTITY. VALUE. Butter and Cheese fiys. 52,067 £ 1,252 Candles, Tallow »» 36,240 604 Flour and Bread Tons 128} 1,576 Grain, Wheat Bushels 4,271 893 ,, v/AlS »»• ... ... ii 695 175 Hoofs, Horns and Bones ... Tons 146 427 J jotiil... ... ... ••• ... ibs. 2,912 32 Leather, Unmanufactured ... Bales 249 3,115 Live Stock, Horses No. 1 5 „ Horned Cattle ... i» 5,287 12,893 „ snoop ... ... *» 57,422 16,091 X OTA106B ... ... ... ... Tons 25 106 Provisions (Salt) Beef ♦» 495} 15,074 „ Pork ..» »i 18} 354 „ Tongues ... »» 7 ? 440 „ Bacon, && »» 4$ 229 Skins, Neat Cattle , No. 19,951 4,106 „ vjaii ... ... ... »» 150 15 i, cneep ... ... ... ii 20,000 1,012 „ Kangaroo & Opossum *» 700 58 ooap ••*• ... ... ... Tons 130* 3,124 Specimens of Natural History J. aiiow ... ... *.« *•• Packages Tons 12 4,489} 89 132,863 W OOl ... ... ... ... lbs. 18,091,207 826,190 Unenumerated Goods • • • • • • 21,073 Total ... 1,041,796 APPENDIX.— THE CONTRAST. 177 ABSTRACT OF EXPORTS. WHERE BENT. Colonial Produce. Imports re-exported. Total. 1850. ) 1849. United Kingdom British Colonies U. States of America Other Foreign States £ 951,891 69,456 237 480 £ 647 18,803 227 55 £ 952,538 88,259 264 535 673,707 78,697 2,776 Total 1,022,064 19,732 1,041,796 755,326 We have no very late official returns to fonh opinions upon, but the following may be considered sufficiently correct up to the close of the year 1851 : — Acres in cultivation 51,536 Sheep 6,647,557 Horned Cattle 483,202 Horses 2,916 Pigs 11,544 The above returns are sufficient to shew the truly glorious results of civilization; — what can be done by the Anglo- Saxon race; — by English, Irish, Scotch and Welsh men when, with a right good-will, they set about colonizing a country blessed with a genial climate, and rich in its natural resources. The Port Phillippians have understood, that " The wise and active conquer difficulties By daring to attempt them ; whilst sloth and folly, Shiver and shrink, at sight of toil, and hazard, And make the impossibilities they fear." They have hitherto acted, as did the early settlers in Massachusetts Bay, who represented to the Virginia Company in 1617, that they " were well weaned from the delicate milk of their mother country, and inured to the difficulties of a strange land. That they were N 178 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. knit together in a strict and sacred bond, by virtue of which, they held themselves bound to take care of the good of each other, and of the whole. That it was not with them as with other men, whom small things could discourage, or small discontents cause to wish- them- selves home again." But again, Victoria is commencing a new era, of her moral, social, and political existence. The unexplored land, over which Buckley, the hero of this Narrative wandered, is now an acknowledged Province, a distinct portion of the mighty British Empire. No longer a child in the hand of its elder sister, she has been declared able to walk independently of aid, — to think, — to act, — to decide on what is most consistent with her own interests and happiness. Arrived at years of maturity, her fortune, her resources, at length are her's, and it will be her fault only, should she not secure, and apply them, as best becomes her power, and her station. But we must not wander farther into the field of her present and future prosperity, in a Narrative of this description, — neither is it necessary, for u The land has peace, freedom, liberty of conscience, and what would ye more? 179 lftGfiftftftfc&iOCftfift^jftftflftftp>»Fi^^ «*^*N**^ THE GOLDEN HARVEST. w cc ftgaa ccaoq e oooc i oooo o oiocdec j eeasas r sa swfflg a w N 180 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. THE GOLDEN CITY. I'll tell thee now a story, like a fairy tale of old,* Of a fair and fragile City, that was built for storing gold, For like the work of fairy hands, it started into life, And rapidly it flourished, until the very streets were rife With luxuries of other climes, the sunny and the cold, For well we know, earth's farthest spots can feel the power [of gold. Methinks I see the busy crowds press hurriedly along, — There's but one ruling passion in all that eager throng, — They come from many distant lands, to this enchanting shore, To seek amongst its mountains a rich and glittering store. They have heard of golden treasures on many a lofty height, That oft the rushing waters of the torrents bring to light. ********** Mara. 181 VICTORIA FELIX The Province of Victoria is bounded on the North and North - East by a line drawn from Gape Howe to the nearest sources of the Murray, and thence by that river ; — on the West by the eastern boundary of South Australia, or the 141 degree of East Longitude, from the Murray to the Sea ; — and on the South by the coast to Cape Howe, including the islands. Its area is 98,000 square miles, or 62,720,000 acres. Its Ports are Mel- bourne (the capital), Geelong, Portland, Port Fairy, and Port Albert. Since the " Adventures of William Buckley " were prepared for the press, another wonderful change has passed over the land of his wanderings,— one so vast in its provincial and national importance, as to .claim an especial notice in this Appendix. Little did Buckley think when, as he was supposed to be, a living-dead-man, amongst the Aborigines of the Australian Wilds, that he was treading over fields of -gold, — that his earthy bed and stoney pillow contained millions of the precious metal, so fondly loved, so as- siduously courted, and So eagerly sought after, by all 182 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. that portion of the human race whom fate has made acquainted with its value. The Poet says— " If ignorance is Miss, 'tis folly to be wise/' but I doubt very much if poor Buckley does not now wish he had had knowledge enough to have found the golden treasure, and thus have saved the British Govern- ment his most liberal [? — !] and very magnificent pen- sion Of TWELVE POUNDS A-YEAr ! ! ! It is evident, however, that he knew nothing at all about these " -Golden Treasures, on many a lofty height, That oft the rushing waters of the torrents bring to light. ,r Nevertheless both him and his Historian contemplate an early visit to the field of his adventures, there to trace in their reality the vast changes which have come ov$r the land. Perhaps we may jpin in more than one Cbrrobbetree ; — perhaps we may be received by the tribes especially greased, painted, and assembled to do us all possible honor, — who knows ? Perhaps also, we may have to square the yards, as the sailors' say, from a few of our very amiable hosts, on account of some old grievance or love affair of Buckley's, with which we (editorially or otherwise) could not have had anything to do, — and " If we have to pluck from out the. nettle danger, The flower /safety," Well, u what must be must," as some very sensible per- son has said, and so for the present there's an end of that matter. Whether aft a future period we shall pub- lish our adventures in a second volume, will depend very ***** ". ji „ much upon thejwocess of the first; so we will now pass APPENDIX.— THE GOLDEN HARVEST. 183 on to the additional Statistics, which I take verbatim from the Victoria Commercial Review, published at Melbourne by Messrs. Westgarth, Boss, & Co. That under date September 1, 1851, says — The District of Port Phillip, forming previously the southern division of the Colony of New South Wales, became on 1st July last, by Imperial enactment, a distinct and independent province, under the designation of the Colony of Victoria. The Govern- ment is administered by a Lieutenant- Governor. The Governer General for the Australian Settlements resides at Sydney, the capital of the adjacent and senior Colony of New South Wales. The Colony of Victoria, first settled sixteen years ago, commen- ces her independent career with a population of 80,000 colonists, and annual exports exceeding at present one million sterling. Melbourne, her Capital City, contains 25,000, and Gteelong the second of her towns about 9,000 inhabitants. The recent discovery of gold in New South Wales opens for Australia a new and extraordinary prospect. The similarity in the appearance of the country near Bathurst to some parts of California, led to this momentous discovery. Gold had been tra •■ ced in the interior of the Colony for several years previously, hut the existence of a u gold field " was not ascertained until May last. 1061b of pure gold were discovered in one spot— a circum- stance unprecedented in the annals of the precious metals Thi s extraordinary treasure was found imbedded in a mass of quartz rock weighing between two and three cwt. These wonderful discoveries have aroused a general attention to the subject of our mineral resources, and numbers of persons are daily " prospecting " throughout this Colony and New South Wales, m search of gold and other metals and ores. The result has not been unsuccessful, and in Victoria as well as New South Wales, regular " diggings " are. now established, from which small quantities of gold are constantly brought to market. As yet, these new resources for Victoria are but poorly and irregularly- productive ; but the application of science and skill may be ex- pected to produce hereafter a very different result. The first shipment of Victoria gold left Part Phillip yesterday by the Ebti- . dwas. The amount was 18 oz. valued at £50.. Gold, now forma a considerable item of theSyaney exnbrts. The first news of the gold discovery produced a very general excitement. 184 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. The following report, dated January 1, 1852, shews the rapid onward course of the Colony, consequent on this vast discovery : — The discoveries of Gold in Victoria have greatly increased during the last two months. The sensation occasioned in September and October, by the productiveness of the Ballarat Gold Fields, has been far exceeded during the two succeeding months by that of Mount Alexander. The greater part of the diggers have now transferred their operations to this latter locality, where with varying success, and scattered over many miles of surface, they are busily engaged in washing the auriferous soil. The number of persons employing themselves in gold digging throughout this colony has been recently estimated at 30,000. Considerable numbers have just been visiting the towns during Christmas ; and it is considered that many more must ere long abandon for a time their new vocation owing to the want of water, as the creeks ox watercourses that intersect the grounds now begin to cease running or are entirely dried up, as usual at this advanced period of summer. In the mean time however new diggings are being industriously sought out along the neighbour- ing banks of the Loddon, where the soil appears similarly aurifer- ous, and an immense and increasing influx of persons continues from the adjacent settlements, who for the most part make imme- diately for " the diggings." . The estimate of the yield of the gold fields continues to be a subject of great uncertainty. But some data are being gradually obtained on the question, in connection with the Government Es- cort that arrives in town weekly from the Gold Fields, and from the Customs' Returns of the quantity exported^ Nearly four months have elapsed since the Victoria Gold fields assumed the position of contributing in any important degree to the exports and resources of the colony. The quantity exported, up to the present date, amounts to 117,825 ounces. In addition to this return there appear to be very large quantities still in town in the hands of numerous parties, and much must also have left this colony for adjacent settlements, independently of the records kept by the Customs' authorities. The Government Escort has conveyed to Geelong and Mel- bourne, up to this date, 116,996 ounces of Gold. But this con- veyance, for the use of which there is a charge made of one per APPENDIX. — THE GOLDEN HARVEST. 185 cent., is supposed to have brought down from the mutes only a moderate proportion of what is actually realized. Valuing the gold at £3 per ounce, it is not perhaps an exaggerated view, that up to this date £750,000 worth hasten raised within this colony; and that with respect to the future this must be considered a very low estimate indeed. The auriferous characteristics are said to be traceable over extensive areas of country* The general desertion of the able bodied and labouring popula- tion for the gold fields has seriously inconvenienced the course of ordinary business and of social life. All building and improv- ing operations have, with scarcely any exception, ceased. The wages of labour have risen, in many instances, threefold, and oc- casionally hands are not to be procured for any consideration. Many families have been left entirely destitute of servants. The crews of the shipping have, more or less in all instances, deserted, some vessels being left quite destitute. The most serious fears are entertained for the safety of the harvest. An ample crop is at this moment ripening throughout the colony; and it is appre- hended that with the same force of labour at command, and the rapidly maturing effect of the climate at this season, a large pro- portion of the grain must be lost. Although as regards a great variety of articles of merchandise, business may be said to have almost ceased, there has been a very spirited demand for others that happen to be suited to the new order of things in the colony. The unlimited demand for "dig- ger's outfit" has caused extensive transactions in slop clothing, canvas and tarpaulings, tea, sugar, and flour, draft and saddle horses, drays and other vehicles. The consumption of Spirits and Tobacco has greatly increased ; and with the large increase of means in the hands of successful diggers, a variety of luxuries in dress, jewellery, and other articles, has been indulged in. '' To what extent the gathering of the grain crops have suffered, it as yet impossible to ascertain ; but that the rate of wages in all the Australian Colonies has been seriously affected, is certain. Little did Elliott, the Corn Law Rhymer, think, when he wrote the song — " There* s a good time comity hoysy — there's a good time coww^Vrtbai the labourer, 186 UFE OF BUCKLEY. by paying thirty, shillings monthly for afioense, would thereby fninehase ft right to dig for gold ; — that within a : few jraarrof his ihn& writing, one Province of the British Empire should show evidence of wealth enough withiftL'fftftc&the of the present generation, to pay off the feo^AMfed " National Debt." But Jejb us see what say the Statistics, dated the 1st February, 1852 ;— The past month has heelh characterised chiefly by the large accessions to the poptdation of this colony from tile adjacent set tleffients -South Australia and Van Diemen's Land in particular are being rapidly depopulated by the efflux of Aelr able bodied and tadmstrions male colonists. In the former Ideality a serious commercial reaction has arisen, in consequence of the almost total cessation of trade, the unmarketable character of property, and the steppage of operations (and necessarily of dividends too/ at the gnat Barm mines, which the Workmen are said to have abandoned for the Victoria gold fields. The gold diggings in New South Wales, although less prolific than those of this colony, have as yet prevented a proportionate emigration from that quater; and some accessions to the popula- tion ace now being received at Sydney from California, consisting chiefly of colonists who had previously gone thither, bat whom the news, of May and June last have induced to return. The immigration from all quarters during the last month into thePotft of Melbourne, independently of some arrivals at Geelong and the smaller Ports, has been 6,640 persons. Deducting 481 who, hare left the colony during the same period, there .remain 6209 persons thus added to the population in one month. These arrivals; deducting' departures, appear severally as follows:— From Britain, .666 ; New Sonth Wales, besides overland parties, 870$ V«Qt:£>ietafin's Land, Sl$7 ; South Australia, besides over- land parties* 26J&: -Arrivals from, other part* of the colony are not counted. These particulars, extracted from the Customs' Records, are probably mucn b^low the actual truth, the vessels being usually overcrowded witty passengers, and the returns given short by the agents, from immjeAension of interference on the part of the au> APPENDIX.— *THE GOLDEN HARVEST. 187 tnorities. As this and farther anticipated immigration will pro- bably consist, for the most part, of male population, the Local Government have already represented to the Heme Authorities the necessity of promoting more particularly the emigration from Britain of the female sex. The scale of commercial operations lias been commensurate with the rapid increase of the colony in wealth and population. There is an immence and increasing business in the articles flour, tea, coffee, sugar, tobacco, spirits, wines, beer, every kind of ready made clothing, canvas, tarpaulings, &o. t all of which have 1 flowed in from every quarter, and found a ready and remunerating market. The amount of duties received at the Qiistpms, Mel- bourne, for the last quarter, has exceeded that for the same quarter ; of 1850 in the proportion of £26,681 to £16,205. . , v ; : <*» The Customs' Duties are: — Bum the produce of sugar, wiskey the produce of malt, of or from any place whatsoever, pay duty «t- the rate of 3s. 6d. per proof gallon; brandy, gin, and other spirits ; 6s. per proof gallon ; foreign cordials and sweetened spirits 6sj per gallon. Tobacco, manufactured, pays 2s. per pound; unmanu- factured, Is. 6d. per pound. 'Tea, sugar, rice, flour, land grain, pay five per cent, ad valorem ; wines fifteen per cent. ; ati ether imported goods, except the produce of the United Kingdom, ten > percent. \ ' v ) The Nbw Legislature of .Victoria has recently passed aff A«t ' reducing the rates of pilotage for this Port, and alteringthe spied* of levying from draft of water to register tonnage. The rate is now 3d.per ton, which averages about one half of previous rates, and the new system appears to deal more equally than its prefab cesser with all classes and dimensions of shipping. Coasters And p vessels under fifty tons, have the option of dispensing with a pilot, and thus avoiding all charge ; but availing themselves of his ser^ ' vices, they pay the full rate. Vessels outfitting or refitting, ■ vessels in ballast, or vessels not breaking bulk, may also decline pilots, but on taking them they pay half rate : and vessels' pro << ceeding from Hobson's Bay to Geelong, with similar option, pay ' one third. '' The harvest has now been nearly all secured. The reaping has been generally ta&en at 25s. per acre, or upwards Jof twice the ordinary rate. Incessant, importations of flour and other provision stuffs have retained farming produce at moderate prices, ' 188 LIFE OP BUCKLEY. notwithstanding at present and prospectively the great increase of demand. Some apprehension appears to have been entertained in Britain, that in consequence of the attractions of the gold fields, the ship- ments of wool from these colonies would prove seriously deficient ; and some advance in price had in consequence taken place. This has not proved the case, at least to any material extent. The sheep shearing has, however, in many instances, stood over too long, and the fleece has thus been exposed to admixture with burrs and grass seeds, and in other respects, the wool has been washed and got up with less than the usual care. At the Gold Fields the want of water continues to be in- creasingly felt, and is a serious hindrance to the diggers : many continue digging on the chance of finding fragments visible to the eye in the dry earth : large pieces, or " Nuggets," of this sort are frequently discovered, and a few days ago a solid mass, apparently of pure gold, weighing 27 lbs. 8ozs., was brought into town, where it was afterwards sold for £4 an ounce, and ex- hibited at a public house. This specimen must be regarded as the best of the kind hitherto discovered in Australia. The in- creasing numbers at the Mines keep up the supply of gold, but the average results must for the present be falling off. Sickness to some extent was prevailing, arising from the use of impure drinking water, and the laborious and exposed mode of life. Scenes of disorder were on the increase, and the Local Govern- ment had experienced difficulty in engaging men to act as police. The Escqbt Returns for the month of January appear as follows : — 7th January 10,998 ounces 14th „ 14,398 „ 21st „ ; 12,038 „ 28th „ 16,087 „ Previously arrived 116,996 „ Total 170,517 ounces The Export Returns for the same month give 160,472 ounces from the different Ports of the Colony, namely, from Melbourne 135,817: from Geelong 24,266: and from Portland 389 ounces. The total quantity of gold exported from Victoria, from the first discovery until 31st January, according to the Customs Records, ' is 305,607 ounces, which, afrihe moderate rate of £3 per ounce, gives the sum of £916,821. It may be observed that this enor- APPENDIX. — THE GOLDEN HARVEST. 189 moos export has appeared almost entirely within the last two months, and that this produce continues at the same, if not at an increasing rate. The following table exhibits a variety of particulars, connected with this export : — Monthly amount of Export. August 18 oz. September Nil October 1,548 November 3,441 Decern, 140,128 January 160,472 Total ... 305,607 oz. Port of Shipment. Melbourne 246,260 oz. Geelong ... 58,958 Portland... 389 -Total... 305,607 oz. Place to which Shipped. London... 238,018 oz. Hamburg 3,411 Sydney... 62,695 Hobart— M83 Total... 305,607 oz. The following is an extract from a letter received from Mr. Westgarth, on the 28th February : — u Gold arrivals per Escort since January returns — February 4th 11,8521 ounces. 11th 11,115 „ 18th 11,199J „ w 34,174 ounces. Almost all from the Mount Alexander locality. The Escort is supposed to bring one-third, or say one-half of the whole." So that here is 68,348 ounces, which at £3 per ounce is of the value of Two Hundred and Five Thousand and Forty-four Pounds Sterling, — the Golden Harvest of Victoria in eighteen days ! Reader, I closed that portion of this Appendix called " The Contrast," by saying " The land has peace, freedom, liberty of conscience ; And what would ye more ?" If the answer was "Gold/*— here you see she now has •» ** ... 190 l LIFE OB BUCKLEY. it in great abmidance. L&t us hope that such an addi- tion to her. other resources may not damage her peace, her freedom? or k& liberty of conscience. That unlike the Californians, her people will remember generously the country from 'whence they sprung, and the unculti- vated, uncivilized children of the forest, and appropriate to them lands they may yet call theirs. — It would be unjust toward the Victorians, in a work of this kind, did I not acknowledge that they have already done so, and that excepting in solitary instances, the settlers have treated the Aborigines with every consideration and kindness. It would also be despicable cowardice, and a great sacrifice of everything politically and morally honest, did I not take this opportunity of contrasting their con- duct with that pursued by the. first gold. finders of the present age in the Pacific — the Californians. The latter boast of their Constitution. Whilst upon this subject, I feel commanded by that love of liberty which all of British descent should cherish, to say a few words : — in- deed I know not how better to close my labours than by an effort in favour of universal rational liberty, — to the black as well as to the white man, — of every creed, class, and colour. The reader is perhaps aware, that the Californian people have given themselves a Constitution, which Constitution and Declaration of Bights, begins after the French fashion, by saying that ale men are by nature born equal ; and then it goes on to state, that therefore all men who have resided in that particular land of APPENDIX.— CAUFOBNIAN SLAVERY. 191 golden blysedness six months, may enjoy the rights of citizenship, with the exception of Afrira^ Indians, and their descendant,— so that you see, Africans, Indians, and their descendants, although compelled to obey all the laws, and to contribute in every way to the support and exigencies of the Government are treated as slaves, simply because they are men of colour. This is fair play amongst a people boasting of their superior freedom, and of their pure and perfect liberty, until the name of liberty becomes nauseous. Thk is the practical humanity as respects mankind in California and in the Southern Slave States^where a human being, merely because he has black blood in his veins, is trodden in the dust, or hunted to destruction like a wild beast. It is true the Californians do not deal in human flesh and blood, and this, I suppose, they consider to be making it a Free State. At the first sight of this precious Constitution, which is so little known as deserving the execration of the world, — and which ought to have been execrated by its Press,—! resolved on remonstrating against its slave clause; not supposing for one moment that a protest from so humble an individual as myself would have any direct effect, but because I thought it possible that some- thing of the kind might draw tha attention of others to the subject, in the same way as J now insert these obser- vations in this! volume^ hoping hd^irom more influential sources. At any rate, H was carrying outpraetically the principles r .advocate* and therefore ;I addressed the fol- lowing letter, to the Governor of California :—•-.> 192 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. Hobabt Town, Van Diemek's Land, March 20, 1850. ►Sir,— I do myself the honor to forward two numbers of the Hobart Town " Britannia" newspaper, begging you at the same time not to consider it an improper intrusion if I offer a few re- marks on one of the clauses in the Constitution your State has recently adopted. I assure you, Sir, they are not occasioned by any feelings but those of respect for the high position you hold, and of deep sorrow, (as a free white man,) at the adoption of the first principle of slavery, by a community speaking the English language, the descendants of a nation to which I am proud to belong, and under whose government I have had the honor to hold military and civil service, many years. By journals recently received in this Colony it appears, that although the Californian Constitution is mainly founded on prin • ciples of civil and religious liberty, a distinction has been made between the white and coloured races. In one of these journals it is said, that " as all men abb by nature equal," those who have resided a certain period in the State, shall, if they think proper, receive all the rights of Citizenship, " with the exception of Africans and their descendants;" — in another it is, " with the exception of Indians, Mexicans, and their descendants.^ Which of the two is correct I know not, neither does it matter, it being evident that a distinct line has been drawn between the black and the white man. In the course of my life, Sir, I have seen much of what I con- sider the debasing influences of slavery, and I have observed (several hundred miles inland) the grievous wrongs heaped upon the Indian tribes of the vast American Continent ; I am, there- fore, excited with the indignation aU free men should feel at ob- serving the first principles of slavery renewed, and about to be acted upon, <«i the shores of the Pacific, and in the nineteenth century, by those who, I did hope, would have risen above the prejudices of the past in their full understanding of the rights of all men. I venture to ask, Sir, was such a sacrifice necessary? APPENDIX,— CALIFORNIAN SLAVERY. 193 and beg to assure you, if there are any causes for it, which are founded upon justice, I shall be most happy to make them known through the Press of these Colonies, in order to remove, so far as it may be in my power, the deep reproach which appears now to attach to your State and Government I may add, that I did think of visiting California, but that the impression now upon my mind renders it impossible. I could not willingly be a resi- dent in a country where such a principle is acknowledged, as that the people of any class, creed, or colour, whilst they are made to contribute to the exigencies of a government in peace and war, shall be deprived of their natural rights as xeh, and be stamped with an indignity, which should attach to the human race only as one of the consequences of crime. This now ap- pears to be the prevalent and increasing opinion of the civilized nations of the world; and from the generous efforts making in the Northern States of your own Union, I did hope, although now more than fifty years of age, to have lived to see the day when these just and merciful sentiments would have effected the emancipation of a people persecuted only on account of their colour;— a circumstance, as we all know, they could have had no more to do with, than I could in the passing of a clause which appears to me to be disgraceful to humanity. . Although not an American Citizen, but a stranger, and not even a temporary resident within the precincts of your govern- ment, yet, as a Member of the Frees, and of the great human family, I feel it my duty, most respectfully, to protest against an act which tends to perpetuate so great a public crime. I could not rest in life, or die in peace, humble an individual as I am, unless I did so; and consequently claim your indulgence for laying this protest before Your Excellency, on behalf of the coloured race. I have only to add, Sir, my request, that you will receive this letter in the spirit with which it is written, viz— of respectful, earnest enquiry, and of hope that I may be enabled to show the clause to which I refer, as being an unavoidable wrong or error a 194 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. that will be immediately remedied, — knowing as we all must, that there is nothing in this world's affairs which in the first in- stance can approach to anything like perfection. I have the honor to be Your Excellency's obedient servant JOHN MORGAN, To His Excellency The Governor of California. There is every reason to believe this letter did not reach its destination, as the ship by which it was trans- mitted was wrecked on its passage to California ; but that the newspapers did, in which it was inserted, there can be no doubt, because in several of the San Francisco journals published at the time, I was honored with storms of that impotent abuse which slave men call up in place of justice and argument. Remember, reader, I had a peculiar right to address such a letter in behalf of my coloured brethren, — being an Indian by adoption of the Hurons, one of the Six Nations, and having gone through all the forms of that adoption. — I have shared the wigwam of the American Indian during peace and war ; and when, after hunting excursions in the wilds of that magnificent Continent, I have seen him steal from under its cover, when the bright full moon has risen from over a mountain, or from out a mighty lake, he has thrown himself prostrate in the act of adoration to the Great Spirit, the " MacM Maneetoo," as he calls it, and I have Yespected him for his devotion. When he rose, I have risen too, and, after the fashion of bushmen, we have smoked our pipes of IfTEKDIXc— CALIPORNIAN SLAVERY. 195 Jeace and friendship, trusted and trusting mutually eaeb other. These scenes of early days in the far west, are more especially called to my remembrance by the daily inte- ligence from California, detailing particulars of cold- blooded murders, and of the countless injuries merciless- ly inflicted, by the white savages of that land of Devil's dust, upon the poor Mexicans and Indians, whom, by their heartless cruelties, they have driven to despera- tion ; forcing them by their brutalities to acts of aggres- sion and revenge. Well do I remember the prophetic observations of the immortal Jefferson, in the American Congress, when discussing the Slave question ; and after the heartless white savages by whom he was opposed, had talked of their right by law to deal in human flesh and blood. They taunted the veteran Patriot with being mock- sentimental in the cause of puerile humanity, as they described the cause of the coloured races. Bursting with indignation, Jefferson exclaimed :— " I tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just, and that His vengeance will not sleep for ever." Feeling that the Californian people had committed a great offence against the universal liberty of the human race, by thus continuing the distinction between the white and coloured man, and believing as I do that in accordance with God's immutable justice, no man, or community of men, can perpetrate great wrongs and escape ultimate punishment, I wrote and dedicated, tvithout permission, the following address to those who o2 196 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. had voted for the infamous Slave Clause, — with which appeal in behalf of the oppressed I close this volume. Californians, — See that Spirit rise From out the raging flame, It comes to mark your destinies With everlasting shame. For yon have robb'd the coloured man, Your Brother, of his right; And God's dark, deepest, curse and ban, Will haunt ye day and night. Is this a time with tyrant hand To strike a prostrate race ? To again renew the bondman's brand, Which free men should efface? For shame. Talk not to me of Liberty ! Yon do not know its worth. It could not live with Slaves like thee; You've killed it in its birth. Half-mast those colours, — lower away; Hoist high the black-and-red, The emblem of despotic sway, Where Liberty is dead. Almighty God !— God of the right! Stretch forth thine arm, and save From Despot power, from lawless might, The poor man and the Slave. JOHN MORGAN. 197 ADDENDA. THE JOURNAL OF THE REV. ROBERT KNOPWOOD. 1803-4:. At the eleventh hour, and when the preceding pages were about to be handed to the bookbinders, we were by the kindness of a friend permitted the perusal of the private journal kept by the late Reverend Robert Knopwood, so well known and respected by the early Settlers of Van Diemen's Land. The Reverend Gen- tleman was the first Chaplain of the Colony, and from his daily narrative we take (by permission) the following extracts, remarking upon them occasionally in passing, as may be necessary : — His Majesty's Ship Calcutta, Spithead. April 24, 1803. — At 9 a.m., unmoored ship, and sent a boat on shore at Portsmouth for Lieutenant-Colonel Collins. At 12 the boat returned with the Lieutenant-Governor^ Twenty mi* 198 XIPB OF BUCKLEY. nutes past one, weighed anchor, and stood for St. Helens. Fresh breeze and squally. Half-past two, anchored at St Helens, in company with the Ocean transport, Captain Matthew. April 25. — At 9 a.m., Lieutenant Houston and myself went on shore at St. Helens, Isle of White. 11 a.m., Calcutta fired a gun for our return. Half-past eleven, weighed and made all sail ; Ocean in company. Fresh breezes, but hazy. April 26. — At 10 a.m. fresh breezes and clear. Ocean in com- pany. Several strange sail in sight. 3 p.m. off the Isle of White. At 4, strong breezes, with dark threatening weather; Needles Point N.N.E. 7 or 8 miles. Bore up for the Needles, and at five crossed the bridge. At six, Calcutta and Ocean anchored in Yarmouth Roads. April 27. — Fresh breezes and clear. Weighed, and made all sail ; Ocean in company. April 28. — At 9 a.m. spoke aFrench fishing boat and got some mackerel. At 10 hove-too ; sent a boat on board the ship Bowen, from Biddeford bound to London. Noon, the Lizard light-house N. three leagues. 7 p.m. fresh breezes and clear; took our de- parture from England. The Calcutta and Ocean anchored in Teneriffe Hoads May 16, 1 803. Here met a Spanish Ship-of-War, and exchanged publie and private civilities. The authorities and the inhabitants treated the voyagers with great hos- pitality. The ships left Santa Cruz on the 20th of the same month, and made Rio de Janeiro on the 20th June. Here they remained until the 17th of July, when they again got under weigh for Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope, where the Calcutta anchored August 12. My good, most hospitable old Mend, thus notes their de*- parture:— August 25. — Made all saiL On our departure from the Gape it is natural to indulge the reflections which obtrude themselvej ADDENDA. — BEV. B. KNOPWOODV JOUBNAL. 199 9 upon those who are to be the first Settlers at Fort Phillip. The land behind us, is the abode of a civilized people ; that before us, the residence of Savages. When (if ever) we shall again enjoy an intercourse with the world, is doubtful and uncertain. The refreshments and pleasure we had partaken at the Gape, are to be exchanged for coarse fare and hard labour. We may truly say all our communications with our families and friends, are now cut off. We are leaving the eivilized world behind us to enter upon a career unknown. October 8. — At 1 a.m. double-reefed the topsails. At 8 fresh breezes. At 10 made the land of New South Wales. 3 p.mu hard squalls ; a very heavy W. swell, the sea going over the poop. At 7 sounded; found no ground at 45 fathoms. 10 p.m. sounded 37 fathoms; brown sand. At 11 blowing very hard and ship labouring much. 12 strong gales and a heavy sea. October 9. — Strong gales and squally, Sounded in 43 fathoms. Carried away the larboard tiller rope. At 5 a.m. saw the land about Port Phillip. The land near the entrance of the Harbour appeared low, and from a distance, very beautiful. Seal Island, and Whale Point, (so named by Captain Woodriff, the head being very like one) lies on the larboard side, as you enter. At 15 m. past 10 we anchored with the best bower in 6 fathoms. Found laying there, the Ocean transport, which had arrived on Friday, the 7th of October. Moored Ship. Captain Woodriff and Colonel Collins went on shore on the Island; returned at 6 p.m. ; could not find fresh water. They reported the soil to be very bad, and the trees small, and unfit for the use of H.M.Navy. The Bay is very large, more so than any I have seen, but the entrance does not exceed a mile and a half, though from the camp S.W. to the N.E. of the Bay, it appears to be not less than sixty miles across. At 10 it blew a heavy gale of wind, so that it was fortunate we had arrived at our destination in the morning. October 10. — At 10 a.m. Lieutenant Petershall, Mr. White, and myself, went on shore on the opposite side, but could not find Any water which was not brackish. The land a bad light soil, ] 200 LITE OF BUCKLEY. A great many trees blown up by the roots* Did not see any natives, but many of their huts, in which were numbers of cockle and muscle shells. A few birds, such as parrots and quails, but' no quadrupeds or fish along the shore. Returned on board by no means satisfied with the country. The Captain and the Govern nor went on shore also, but they found only a very small stream of good water. [Near what is now called Arthur's Seat, to the east- ward of the bar.] October 11. — The same party and myself went to the Island in the middle of the Bay, where we saw a great number of black swans. Three were killed, and many caught alive, and also pellieans, and some sea birds. Captain Woodriff and the Gover- nor, with Mr. Tuckey, went on the west side of the Bay, in search of water, but could not find any. Three of the natives came to us, and were very friendly. They gave Mr. Tuckey a spear. The information the Governor, &c, gave us, was by no means favorable, there being a great want of good water, soil, and trees. October 12. — Sent a party on shore cutting grass, and another watering. At 7 a.m. the Governor, Captain WoodrhT, and lieu- tenant Tuckey, went in search of water, and to see the same three natives. The Colonial Surgeon reports the water found by sinking wells, to be good and fit for use. The Captain gave one of the natives a blanket. Sent the carpenter on shore to look for wood fit for his purposes. October 13. — The carpenter returned, not having found tim- ber fit for securing the head and knees of the ship. Sent the small launch watering, and a party of officers went in her sur- veying on the S. E. part of the Bay. October 14. — Sent the Master up the Bay to sound for a con- venient place to take the ship to, for removing the colonial stores. At 30 m. past 9 a.m. he returned, and reported good anchorage three or four miles further to the eastward. At 10 cleared hawse. Seat on shore a party of the Colonial Marines,also some convicts, ADDENDA. — BEV. E. KNOFWOOD's JOURNAL. 201 with Lieutenant Johnson, to pitch tents. They took with them the equipage, and live stock. [Ships get under-way and anchor again.] October 15. — Ocean at anchor, one mile distance. Employed unloading stores. Where we are, we can see the Camp, distance from as four and a half miles. Launch fitting for surveying the harbour. October 16.— Sent the launch and cutter away with the First lieutenant, Mr. Tuckey , attended by two Civil Officers, Messrs. Harris and Collins, and Mr. Gammon, in a six-oar cutter vic- tualled for six days, to survey the Bay, from the Gamp to the Northward, to find if possible a more eligible situation for form- ing a settlement. Employed landing baggage, and convicts. [The intervening days, landing stores.] October 21.— Launch and cutter returned from having sur- veyed the harbour. At the N.W. point of the Bay, they dis- covered a straight passage apparently to the sea, which Lieut. Tuckey intended to have explored, but was driven by a 'strong current to the Southward during the night, and at daylight finding himself near the ship he came en board. He reported having landed at several places, and found the soil bad, the trees very small, and but little water. October 22. — lieutenant Tuckey, Mr. Gammon, Mr. Collins, and Mr. Harris, found a fresh water river near the N.E. point of the Bay, where they pitched their tent for the night. [Messrs. Tuckey and Harris thus report — ] At 8 A.U., October 23rd, observed three natives, who ap- proached them. Mr. Tuckey gave them fish, bread, and many presents, they being much pleased and very friendly. At tes Mr. Collins and Lieutenant Tuckey went across the Bay, about five or six miles, with a boat's crew, leaving Mr. Harris and Mr. Gammon, with two men, in charge of the tent, provisions, &c and to make observations on shore. The three natives seeing Mr. Tuckey go away, went away also. Early in the afternoon they returned, and a great many other natives with them. At 202 LIFE OF BUCKLEY, 2 p.h. those in the boat coming back observed seventy in one party. Mr. Tuckey called to them, and they pointed to the spot where the tent was, On the boat coming up, Mr. Tuckey found Mr. Gammon surrounded by the blacks, the chief haying seized the latter, Mr. Harris being also surrounded at the tent, of which they had taken possession and were pillaging. Mr. Gammon called out to Mr. Tuckey to fire. He fired over them, and they ran away to a small distance ; but immediately returned with their Chief, who wore a sort of turban crown. Whenever he ordered them to halt or advance, they did so immediately. Mr. Tuckey fired over them a second time, at which they again re- tired a short distance. They were in great numbers, and all armed. Finding that none of their party were wounded by the firing, they again advanced; but when one of them was about to throw his spear at Mr. Tuckey, he gave orders to shoot him as an example. Our people fired, and Innis killed him, and another was wounded; on which they all fled. When this oc- curred, the number of the savages had encreased to 150. Had not Lieutenant Tuckey fortunately come up with his boat, there is no doubt but they would have killed Mr. Gammon and Mr. . Harris, and their two men, and perhaps have eaten them, for there is great reason to believe they are cannibals. October 23. — At 11 a.m. the Camp assembled, the Governor at the 'head of the Royal Marines, to hear Divine Service per- formed in the barrack-square, before all hands. October 24. — Convicts mustered, and put into different gangs for work. October 25. — At 8 a.m. the British Flag hoisted at the Camp for the first time, it being the anniversary of His Majesty's ac- cession to the throne. At 12 the Royal Marines fired three voilies in honor of the day. At 1 p.m. H. M. S. Calcutta fired twenty-one guns on the same occasion. The day excessively hot ; thermometer at noon 92. The sudden changes from heat to cold are very great; much more so than in England. [The Reverend Gentleman was seized with illness ADDENDA. — REV. B. XNOFWOOD's JOURNAL. 203 this day, and was an invalid until the end of the week ; during which time he acknowledges* having received great attention from the Governor, and from the estab- lishment generally.] October 31. — Bain, and much lightning. At K) came on a dreadful tempest, the lightning being very severe. November 1. — Continual rains, with heavy thunder; thermo- meter 90 at noon ; went down to 50 in the evening. [The following is the first notice we find of Buckley — ] November 2. — Rain at intervals. Being much better was able to go to the Camp. Waited on the Governor. Complaint brought before me as a Magistrate, that one Robert Cannady, a servant of Mr. Humphrey, had promised Buckley, the Gover- nor's servant, a waistcoat, in return for a pair of shoes which Cannady had taken and worn. Cannady would not give the waistcoat, although he had his shoes. After hearing both sides, I ordered the waistcoat to be given to Buckley according to promise. November 6. — Mr. Collins, with six men in a large boat, sailed with despatches from the Calcutta and the Camp, to Governor King, at Port Jack.son. November 9. — Three more convicts missing. The men em- ployed making a battery, and mounting guns. November 10. — Mr. Collins got out of harbour this morning. November 12. — An armed party left in search of runaway convicts. Eight in all absent. November 13. — All the Officers, Military and Civil, with the convicts, attended at Divine Service. The Sermon preached was to induce feelings of thankfulness to Almighty God for our safe arrival. November 14. — Lieutenant Fetershall killed the first Kanga- joo. It weighed, when dressed, more than 68 lbs. Colour dark Bandy brown, November 15. — The barge's crew of the Calcutta killed a sea elephant, weighing more than 110 lbs. The head like a bulldogs. 204 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. November 16. — The Ocean transport dropped down near the harbour's month. Five of the escaped convicts brought back to Camp. Burned on shore the first dead body : the oook of the Calcutta. November 17.-— At half-past 10 Captain Woodriff arrived at the Camp, with as many of his officers as could be spared. At 11 the Garrison was under arms; at half-past, all the convicts were clean dressed and assembled on the left side the parade. The lieutenant-Governor's Commission was read by me as the Chaplain of the Colony. When that was done, the Military fired three vollies, and all gave three cheers for His Honor. The day would have passed off with the greatest joy, but that His Honor was obliged to punish the five deserters who had been brought back, in order to deter others from deserting. Captain Matthew, with his ship, the Ocean, got out of the Bay. November 18 and 19. — Calcutta shifted her berth. Received a letter from her stating that the natives had obliged the wood- ing party to return on board. The blacks were nearly 400 in number. Three of the deserters returned to Camp. Placed an outpost near the Governor's garden, to give notice should the blacks approach the Camp. Heavy rains, with dreadful thunder and lightning. November 20.— Calcutta under way, standing for a fresh water river. AH assembled at Divine Service. [The next few days immaterial. The weather un- settled, with thunder and lightning very frequent.] NovEHBEB 25. — Sergeant Thomas's wife delivered of a boy, the first child born of European parents at Pert Phillip. December 5. — Calcutta having completed her water, took up her old station off One Tree Point; December 9. — Lieutenant Tuckey, Lieutenant M'Cuflock, Mr. "White, Lieutenant Johnson, Mr. Bowden, Mr. Harris, with their servants, and three Marines, (all armed,) left the Camp for "Western Port. December 10*— Mr.Sladdenand myself occupied a long tima ADDENDA,— REV. R. KNOPWOOD's JOURNAL. 205 enquiring into a charge brought against a man for coining. — Found it be a false and malicious information. December 12.— At 1Q a.m. a signal made from the station at the 8.W, side of the Island, that a ship was in sight. Commu- nicated immediately with the Calcutta. Ship proved to be the Ocean transport, Captain Matthew. She had been taken into the Colonial Government Service for four months. She brought back Mr. Collins and his boat's crew who went with him to Port Jack- son with dispatches from Governor Collins. By her we learnt that there had been a Settlement formed in Van Diemen's Land, by a party of Convicts, male and female, under the command of Lieutenant Bowen, R.N., and that the Ocean and Lady Nelson which had sailed on the 28th November were to remove us there, or to any other place Governor Collins might think proper. — Early this morning, Lee and another convict, went to the Gover- nor's garden and procured a gun and ammunition from the gar- dener, saying he came from the Governor, and had orders to receive it. [This man Lee was one of Buckley's party of ab- sconders, and the gun here mentioned was probably the one referred to in his Narrative.] December 14.— At noon, signal made for a strange sail in sight. At 3 p.m. she came to an anchor, and proved to be the Francis schooner, from Port Jackson, sent round by Governor King to assist in removing the Settlement to Van Diemen's Land. Party under Lieutenant Tuckey returned from Western Port. December 17. — Calcutta moved to near the harbour's mouth, preparatory to her sailing for Port Jackson. December 18.— Calcutta sailed, and I took leave of Captain Woodriff and all those I knew on board. December 25. — Christmas Day. The Governor, the Civil and Military Officers, convicts, &c., attended Divine Service. Pub- licly baptized Sergeant Thomas's child, the first born at the Settlement. The Governor named him Hobart. Last night a 206 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. daring robbery was committed at the Commissary's marquee* whilst he was in bed. They stole a gun which was hanging up near the side of the bed, and took a pair of boots from his bed side. The hospital tent was also robbed. December 27.— At 9 p.m. six convicts endeavoured to make their escape. They were beset by a look-oat party, and one man shot, — very badly wounded. [This was Buckley's party.] December 28.— Corporal Sutton reported that the man shot was Charles Shaw. A cart, and Assistant-Sturgeon Bowden, sent to bring him into Camp. December 29. — People employed loading the Ocean. The Governor communicated his wish that the Civil Establishment should form a patrol at night, in case of an insurrection. December 30. — People employed in getting the guns from off the wharf, and on board the Ocean. Great fires seen at a dis- tance, supposed to be made by runaways. At 10, a great fire across the Bay. [The names of Buckley's party are here given, but the journal states that one man was taken besides Shaw, who was shot, which circumstance it is probable Buck- ley had forgotten when he related to me the history of his life.] January 2, 1804.— Civil Officers met to consult upon the plan of the association, and at 9 p.m. Mr. Anson and myself took the first night watch. January 6. — At 5 a.m. Mr. W^Stocker, two men, and myself all armed, went to the harbour's mouth, but did not find any trace of the runaway convicts. At 3 p.m. returned'. January 7. — At half-past 2 a.m. drums beat to arms. The Military, and all the Officers of the Association, with their sub- ordinates, attended. Each received a brace of pistols, and four founds of ball cartridge, 1 lb. beef, 1 lb. bread, and half a pint of spirits. At half-past 3, nine Marines, armed and with the same supply of ammunition, joined us, together with Sergeant-Major ADDENDA. — BET. B. KNOFWOOD f S JOURNAL. 207 M'Cauley : in all we mustered Military 11, Association 18. We went in search of the men who had escaped from the Camp, but discovered only traces where they had been, although we tra- velled a distance computed at fifty miles. January 12. — Observed a schooner coming into the Bay. She proved to be the Edwin from Port Jackson. Anchored near the Ocean. January 15. — The Ocean lost three men drowned by the up- setting of a boat coming from an island in the Bay. At 2 p.m. there came on a very severe tempest. [The repeated storms of rain, with thunder and very vivid lightning, are noted in the journal as being of very frequent occurrence.] January 16. — M'Allender went to the Governors garden and surrendered himself, with a gun which was the Commissary's (Mr. Fosbrook's) property. At 2 he was brought into Camp. [This man was also one of Buckley's party.] January 17. — Engaged all the morning in taking the* deposi- tion of Daniel M'Allender, the prisoner who escaped with Pritchard and the party when Shaw was shot. Sailed for King's Island, the Edwin. January 18. — The day very fine. At 11, thermometer stood at 82 ; and at 1 p.m. 92 in the shade, 110 in the sun. At 1 the Military, in their new clothing, paraded, and fired three voHies. At half-past 3, the hut of Lieutenant Johnson, B.M., and another of Lieutenant Lord's, B.M., caught fire, and were burnt, very nearly setting the whole of the marquees on fire. January 20. — At 2 p.m., the Ann, from Port Jackson, with despatches from Governor King to Governor Collins, came to an anchor in the Bay. January 21. — Engaged all the morning taking the deposition of Charles Shaw (the wounded man). At 1 p.m. information was given that two vessels were in sight from the flag staff, standing toward the harbour. Proved to be the Lady Nelson from Part Jackson, and the Edwin from King's Island. 208 LIFE OF BUCKLEY. January 22.— Lady Nelson and Edwin anchored off the Jetty. Performed Divine Service, all persons off military doty attending. January 24. — 120 Convicts sent on board the Ocean, with the guard. One of the prisoners who had been a long time in the bush, returned to Gamp in a very weakly state. January 25. — At 10 a.m. all the Settlers who were to embark on board the Lady Nelson, (Mr. Simons, Commander,) embarked with their baggage. The remainder of the convicts went on board the Ocean. January 26. — At 10 a. v. struck my marquee, and sent all my baggage on board the Ocean. Got on board myself about six p.m., with Lieutenant Lord, Mr. Harris, Mr. Bowden, and others. January 28.— At 2 a.m. weighed anchor, and ran down to the harbour's mouth. At 3 anchored. All on board. Contrary winds. Observed large fires near the Camp. January 29. — At 10 a.m. Captain Matthew, Mr Humphrey, and myself; went on shore for a walk. Returned at 4 p.m. Heard .from the Camp that many of the Natives were about the neigh- bourhood. January 30. — At half-past 4 a.m. weighed anchor and made all sail out of the harbour of Fort Phillip. At 3 p.m. I dined with the Governor. It is always desirable to leave a friend in a comfortable position ; and having thus seen the good ship Ocean well outside the Heads of Port Phillip, and the worthy, kind- hearted Chaplain of the Expedition happily seated at the Governor's table, where no better man could fill a place, we once more close the Narrative, hoping this unex- pected addition may not be considered ill-timed or un- interesting. ..'♦^ J !..'i%